clutch replacement
03-05-05, 12:02 PM
#1
4-seater TII
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clutch replacement
i finaly got my new clutch (SPEC stage II) I've neverdone a clutch swap on an FC before and wondering if there are any tips or tricks or anythign i should know before swapping a clutch in a S4 TII. do i need to replace that one seal so oil doesnt leak onto my clutch? and i keep contemplating wether i want to just drop the trany or pull the engine. if i pull the engine i can port my wastegate, but it is a lot more work and i would like to have this done in a day.
03-05-05, 12:33 PM
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I was wondering the same question too. I am also thinking about buying the spec stage 2. Do you need to replace anything else besides the through out bearing, or just replace the actual clutch and you should be fine?
03-05-05, 12:36 PM
#3
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Mine was done not too long ago. From underneath the car, drop the exhaust. The tranny route is going to take you less time. Make sure that you disconnect all the wires and such before unbolting the tranny. Also--there is a ground strap that bolts to your driver's side exhaust near the muffler, so don't forget to get that one too.
The biggest problem I ran into with mine was the pilot bearing that presses into the back of the E-shaft. You can use the pilot bearing remover, and if you can get your hands on one you SHOULD. Check your local Auto Zone--many times they have tools like that that you can rent, and to buy one at MazdaTrix for example is $111. If you intend to do a lot of clutches, I say buy it, but that is up to you. In a lot of cases, this pilot bearing wearsw down until it is a melted, bent up mass of metal. In my case, we actually had to use power tools to remove the rest of the piece from the end of the shaft, because it was so messed up. And yes, I would use a new pilot seal--I think that was the seal you were asking about. If it isn't the same one, then I would replace yours anyway. Also, replace the throw-out bearing. I do not know how many miles you have on yours, but mine was just over 100K. I put in all new parts except for the flywheel. Because of how old our cars are, I would recommend doing the same. Hope this helps
The biggest problem I ran into with mine was the pilot bearing that presses into the back of the E-shaft. You can use the pilot bearing remover, and if you can get your hands on one you SHOULD. Check your local Auto Zone--many times they have tools like that that you can rent, and to buy one at MazdaTrix for example is $111. If you intend to do a lot of clutches, I say buy it, but that is up to you. In a lot of cases, this pilot bearing wearsw down until it is a melted, bent up mass of metal. In my case, we actually had to use power tools to remove the rest of the piece from the end of the shaft, because it was so messed up. And yes, I would use a new pilot seal--I think that was the seal you were asking about. If it isn't the same one, then I would replace yours anyway. Also, replace the throw-out bearing. I do not know how many miles you have on yours, but mine was just over 100K. I put in all new parts except for the flywheel. Because of how old our cars are, I would recommend doing the same. Hope this helps
03-05-05, 02:35 PM
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yes...u'll need a pilot bearing puller......while ur at it...change the front tranny seal, throw out bearing... if ur gonna pull the engine..theres no way u'll have it done in 1 day..unless u have a lift at hand and a few buddies to help....and wake at at the crack of dawn........everythings pretty simple......
disconnect the exhaust
drain tranny fluid
mark/disconnect driveshaft/remove
unbolt slave cylinder
mark THEN unplug the tranny sensors after its done take pics and post them for me...i dont know which one goes where....
go inside the car and unbolt the shifter....
start unbolting everything thats connecting the tranny...if ur doing this in ur driveway.....have a floor jack ready..***** heavy as hell
replace what u want.....then
the fun begins.......lining up the tranny to the engine......i found out its easier to drop the subframe instead of tying to line both up while undropped...it took a good 4-5 hours the first time
put **** back on........thats it
ohh while ur at it...since the tranny is out.....if ur shifter is sloppy, get the spring that supports the shifter.....i forgot to do this and im pissed.....
disconnect the exhaust
drain tranny fluid
mark/disconnect driveshaft/remove
unbolt slave cylinder
mark THEN unplug the tranny sensors after its done take pics and post them for me...i dont know which one goes where....
go inside the car and unbolt the shifter....
start unbolting everything thats connecting the tranny...if ur doing this in ur driveway.....have a floor jack ready..***** heavy as hell
replace what u want.....then
the fun begins.......lining up the tranny to the engine......i found out its easier to drop the subframe instead of tying to line both up while undropped...it took a good 4-5 hours the first time
put **** back on........thats it
ohh while ur at it...since the tranny is out.....if ur shifter is sloppy, get the spring that supports the shifter.....i forgot to do this and im pissed.....
03-05-05, 02:37 PM
#6
like stated above.... besides pulling and reinstalling the tranny, the hardest part is the pilot bearing!! my advice...... get a pilot bushing!! they are better in the long run......
there are a few bolts for the tranny that are a headache to get, but not that difficult..... if you've never done a clutch swap before, heres a few tips....
-make sure to use the clutch alignment tool when installing the clutch
-make sure to not tighten the clutch bolts one by one... lightly snug each one going in a star pattern (like tightening lug nuts) then torque each one down to proper specs.... if you dont, the pressure plate can end up binding and not sit flush with the flywheel! also, there are 6 bolts that hold the pressure platein place, 3 are longer than the others, so take note of that
-make sure to get your flywheel resurfaced
-emory cloth both the pressure plate and flywheel
-grease up the input shaft very good, along with the throw out bearing
-make sure to fill the tranny completely w/ gear oil.... youll know when your filling and it starts spewing out of the hole... then put your finger in the hole to make sure its full
-fill the shifter hole with gear oil before reinstalling shifter
thats all i can think of at the moment... some things i stated are overkill, but i say.. better safe than sorry..... you dont want to have to do the job twice
there are a few bolts for the tranny that are a headache to get, but not that difficult..... if you've never done a clutch swap before, heres a few tips....
-make sure to use the clutch alignment tool when installing the clutch
-make sure to not tighten the clutch bolts one by one... lightly snug each one going in a star pattern (like tightening lug nuts) then torque each one down to proper specs.... if you dont, the pressure plate can end up binding and not sit flush with the flywheel! also, there are 6 bolts that hold the pressure platein place, 3 are longer than the others, so take note of that
-make sure to get your flywheel resurfaced
-emory cloth both the pressure plate and flywheel
-grease up the input shaft very good, along with the throw out bearing
-make sure to fill the tranny completely w/ gear oil.... youll know when your filling and it starts spewing out of the hole... then put your finger in the hole to make sure its full
-fill the shifter hole with gear oil before reinstalling shifter
thats all i can think of at the moment... some things i stated are overkill, but i say.. better safe than sorry..... you dont want to have to do the job twice
Last edited by vipers; 03-05-05 at 02:39 PM.
03-05-05, 02:45 PM
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and yes.....take pics of the plugs before u disconnect them........DO IT!!!!!
FYI theres the speedo cable that u can see from below..then theres the light switches thats on the top..make sure u get those before u drop the tranny......
FYI theres the speedo cable that u can see from below..then theres the light switches thats on the top..make sure u get those before u drop the tranny......
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03-05-05, 02:48 PM
#8
oh....and disconnect the battery......... your going to be taking the starter off, and those are live wires down there...... so be safe and disconnect the battery
there is also the slave cylinder, which is located on the top of the tranny, on the drivers side.... 2 bolts hold it on the tranny.. when taking this piece off, be careful with it..... its kinda fragile....... dont let it hang by the clutch line
there is also the slave cylinder, which is located on the top of the tranny, on the drivers side.... 2 bolts hold it on the tranny.. when taking this piece off, be careful with it..... its kinda fragile....... dont let it hang by the clutch line
Last edited by vipers; 03-05-05 at 02:50 PM.
03-05-05, 07:02 PM
#9
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you should at least resurface your flywheel, and taking that thing off is semi easy (with like a 7ft breaker bar LOL) putting it back on is hard being that 350ft/lbs or torque is kinda hard to come by when you are talking a torque wrench haha
03-10-05, 11:53 PM
#10
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i cant get my slave cylinder off. i can get a socket onto the nuts, but i have no leverage. i'm thinking of just disconnecting it at the line connection on the firewall. but if someone has an easyer way of doing it please do share!
o and the wires on the tranny wires are color coded. but i will take pics for u anyways.
o and the wires on the tranny wires are color coded. but i will take pics for u anyways.
03-11-05, 04:52 PM
#11
I just did my 3 days ago and it's a bitch so just get an extention and move acouple of those hoses. If it doesn't come of then. Try using a wrench. I gotta re-drop my tranny since the s4 throwout bearing doesn't really work on an s5 going to have to use my old on. Oh if anyone comes by this and wounders is a S4 Pressure plate will work on an S5 no it won't I learned that the hard way. But good luck to you on that.
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