Ok, 180,934, 87 RX7 GXL N/A

I rebuilt the masterslave cylinder and clutch slave cylinder, bled the lines, and replaced the hoses, its not that

My clutch peddle will stick to the floor only under load, what I mean is that when I put it in first gear, and let the clutch out, it will come out, but will stop. If I try to engage the clutch when it has stopped, it will go to the floor and I will have to prop it up with my foot.

In reverse, it doesn't come out with my foot, instead it will stay to the ground and stall my car.

Also, once moving, it will grind through all the gears and still stick, it may stick to the floor, or half-way, but will not fully disengage without the assistance of my foot.

I searched for a while and it may be the: pilot bearing, clutch spring, or bad clutch. I really don't know what to do. Any help big or small is appreciated.

*I can take a video if needed*

 

Important to know would be if this started occurring before or after you rebuilt the cylinders?

 

After, from what I remember, it was doing fine, until one day I was driving and the clutch peddle got real light. It felt as though it would take my pinky toe to engage, and disengage it.

 

its a long shot. but somthing like that happend to mine and it ended up that the rod on the pedal that goes into the master somehow got bent so it wouldnt fully engage.

 

I'll check that, Thank you"Mazdarider914"; keep the suggestions coming.

 

are you using stock PP? only other thing that comes to mind is a bent clutch fork on broken pivot.

 

yes, stock everything, well I wouldn't consider a SS clutchline a performance part. I'll check these tomorrow.

 

Is there any fluid left in the reservior? Your master or slave cylinders may have gone bad. It's common after a DIY rebuild, specifically because the cylinder usually needs to be honed and they don't do it, or can't do it because the material is aluminum.

 

The mastercylinder holds fluid. I figured my problem would not be related to the master or slave because my peddle sticks only under load.

What do you mean "honed"?

 

Don't worry about it, honing cleans out the cylinder.... kind of like a crude machining.

What do you mean by "under load"

 

I agree since it only started happening after the rebuilds check the cylinders to make sure they aren't leaking and check the lines etc.

 

What you need to do is get all the air out. It's still leaking out some where, I had the same problem last week. I rebuilt the clutch master cylinder, and used an air compressor with cap to force out all the air in the lines.

Are you sure you bleed the slave correctly? You need the vacuum line on the bleeder valve and the hose in some brake fluid at the bottom of a bottle, so when you release you don't catch a bubble of air.

When did you rebuild the master cylinder? Even if you are not losing fluid, it doesn't mean it's not bad. It could be seeping past the 1st gasket but not making it to the 2nd boot of the master. (So no liquid will be visible, or fluid lost)

 

OK, I took off the transmission 3 weeks ago; in that time I changed the pilot bearing, put on new clutch and pressure plate, rebuilt slave cylinder again, rebuilt master slave cylinder again, re-bent a new hardline, and bled it again. It still is sinking to the floor in a first gear pull and reverse. I've tried every bleeding procedure I've searched up for.

 

I had the same problem and replacing the master fixed it. How did the master cylinder bore look when you rebuilt it? Sounds like the seal is bypassing fluid and losing the pressure to push the pedal back up.

 

The bore is smooth to the touch, there was no debri or damage. I still have 2 hours of daylight, I'm gonna take it off and re-examine it.

 

after re-examination of the clutch master slave cylinder, it is smooth and shiny, no grooves at the bottom either. This is very weird. I got to wait on my friend to come by and bleed the clutch with me.

 

We bled it, but when I took off the tranny I didn't put the battery in, so it has to charge overnight. Thanks "Turbo II Rotor"

 

just another idea, check your slave cylinder bolts that bolt the clutch slave cylinder to the bell housing on the tranny and make sure one of them didnt get fucked up or not tight enough, it happened to me and i had to get helicoils in mine to rectify the problem

 

Uhm, you don't need to take off the transmission to bleed the clutch. Why did you take off the trans?

 

Some of my friends that are real good with cars said it could be the clutch release bearing, so I figured we should check it out, and while we were at it we changed the clutch, and pilot bearing which were stated earlier in this thread. That didn't fix the problem. Its bled, I just need to wait for my battery to charge to do the real test.

 

Some people just need to learn to read the thread

 

Are you sure your not rebuilding them wrong? Maybe just buy a new master and slave and see what happens.

 

I really don't think its the cylinders at all actually. Because it doesn't leak any fluid, its solid. I only get the problem lifting off from 1st gear. Like my scenario earlier, from a stand still position, push the clutch in all the way, shift to first, do fancy footwork and try to go, but as you let your foot up from the clutch and put the other down for gas, the clutch will stop half way, or under half, you have no choice but to stall, even if you try to put your foot on the clutch peddle.

 

Replace the master cylinder.

http://mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=41-400C-FB01

 

That seems to happen to quite a lot of 7's but i have never seen it that severe to the point it makes you stall. You should unplug the slave from the master and push the clutch peddle down once and see how much fluid flies out of the metal rod. Obiously you need someone to push it down for you so you can watch and bring somethin to wipe up the fluid. It happened to me once where the master didnt wanna push out a steady flow of brake fluid. I replaced master and tried again and it shot a **** load of brake fluid out so i hooked it back up and bled it and clutch was perfect.