XIEmperorIX

iTrader: (8)

Ok so first off..holy hell..taking out the transmission and putting it back in has been nothing short of an adventure..ughh..

anyway..after everything was good and installed..clutch pedal went all the way to the floor no problem but of course..wouldn't return..hmm..great...lets bleed the system..

so we bleed the system and same thing..ok fine..must need to replace the slave cylinder..no big deal..probably needed replacing soon anyway..

replace slave cylinder with a brand new one..while I am at it figure it's a good idea to replace the master cylinder and clutch line so replace that as well.

After all that has been installed the clutch pedal won't go all the way down..it goes down about 1/2-3/4 of the way and just stops. I didn't mess with the pedal adjustment and checked to make sure the bolts and master cylinder is installed as far in as it will go.

Sorry for the long winded post..I just wanted to be as specific as possible.

Any ideas? Everything I read online points to the throw out bearing or shift fork being installed incorrectly. I don't think this is likely since we didn't take the clutch or flywheel off. Pulled the trans out to have it rebuilt and like I said the clutch pedal was fine until I replaced the master and slave cylinders.

Help

FC_fan

iTrader: (2)

did you assemble the slave correctly? I had to put my new one together, the plunger was separate. I would double check all the clutch hydrolics, make sure the line isn't blocked as it must be something to do with that since it was working ok before. I had my pedal not returning/losing pressure due to my hydraulics going so I replaced both units and bled the system and it worked fine after.

does it go into gears at all when idling with the clutch pressed as far as it would go without grinding? are you losing fluid at all?

Bamato

iTrader: (6)

Amidst all the trouble of installing the trans back into the vehicle, are you shure you didn't damage the pressure plate on the clutch?

FC_fan

iTrader: (2)

^way I understood it is that he re installed the tranny with the old clutch stuff and then realized that they needed replacing. if the pedal was not returning but going all the way down before but is not after the new hydraulics then it would seem like the logical place to start would be at the hydraulics he just put on.

wjk0817

iTrader: (3)

Ooh, where did u get the hydraulics fc fan?

XIEmperorIX

iTrader: (8)

yup..we didn't remove the clutch or flywheel..the clutch was fairly new when I bought the car (according to the receipt it only has about 10-12k on it) and the car started up just fine when the pedal was going to the floor. Obviously I could drive the car but I was able to move the shfiter through all the gears just fine and could hear them engaging.


Maybe I Just got a little ahead of myself on this one. I haven't had a chance to really bleed it very well yet.

Also how do you keep the plunger on the slave cylinder from actually falling out? lol Does it going into the rubber portion up to the..I guess neck of the plunger? where it gets thicker towards the top (giggity)?

Mr.Cool

iTrader: (2)

even though he had the peddle all the way down before dosnt mean that the clutch was fully disengaged, like if you had no clutch fluid you could push the peddle all the way down but it wont fully disengage the clutch. i do agree that its probably best to start at the new parts but only because thats probably way easier. just wouldnt rule out any possibility yet.

FC_fan

iTrader: (2)

^ ya for sure, don't rule anything out but start with the easiest stuff first.

I got my hydraulic units from some random ebay company that had a lot of sales and 100% positive feedback for like $60. the plunger came with it but was not installed and I don't recall how that went on there but there were 1 pg instructions with pics and it was simple. they have been working just fine but I've only put on maybe 5k miles before I put the car up for winter. I drifted it and beat it hard for half those miles too. I was heading to my first drift event right after I changed them and coming out of a toll, I raced my friend and lost all pedal pressure on a hard shift to second (I have stock s4 na so ya). thought I blew something but checked it out and my bro forgot to tighten the bleed screw, just finger tightened. spewed fluid all over the firewall, bit on the engine. lol. refilled/bled and was fine after that.

OP check haynes manual maybe for the plunger thing. I think maybe it doesn't actually stay on, you pull it back to get it in the tranny and it springs up to whatever it rests against. I think you do have to get a rubber boot over part of the unit itself. I did it fast and can't remember but I'll do some searching for ya and let you know.

FC_fan

iTrader: (2)

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/clutch-master-slave-cylinder-%2Awriteup%2A-532869/

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/how-rebuild-clutch-master-slave-cylinder-829238/

here some rebuild threads with pics that might help? you probably know how it should look. take the cylinders out and make sure the springs are moving freely, and chack that line. then if all is good there, you will have to check the tranny. take a look at the clutch/pressure plate and inspect, make sure you aligned the tranny correctly.

XIEmperorIX

iTrader: (8)

Thanks man that helps! Glad to know I"m not the only one to think that bolt for the master cylinder was a bigger pain than it really should have been