Hey boys and girls! Well this is a how to rebuild your master and slave cylinder.

First you need: 10mm wrench, 12mm wrench, 12mm socket, ratchet, snap ring tool, extension, 8mm wrench, 17mm wrench and brake fluid.

Since we have the tools in check, first start by getting the fluids out of the lines. You can use an air compressor and attach it to the clutch master cylinder with the right cap and fitting. Disconnect the soft line from the metal brake line. 17mm and 10mm it's right on the firewall to the upper left of the brake booster.

After the fluids gone, take the two 12mm bolts holding the slave. There's a ground on one of the slave bolts, be careful not to break it.

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...37bb8d1ea2.jpg

After the slave is out, you can take off the soft line and get a new crush washer for it. Also make sure you don't lose the ball under the bleeder valve, if you for some reason want to take the bleeder valve out.


With the slave off, clean it off. You take off the rubber boot from the slave, it should just slide off. With the rebuild kit, you should have a boot, a dick, and a spring. You take the old boot off the dick, and reuse it. Your done with that part. With a flat head screw driver, (this is my way, you can use whatever what you want) Fry around on the inside while twisting up, that is how I for the plunger to come out.

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...437025d2b8.jpg

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...4e5b720b9b.jpg

While the plunger is out, clean up the surface a little in the inside.

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...8464082698.jpg

Slave cylinder apart in order

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...186d8c92cf.jpg
Slave, spring, plunger, boot and dick


To be put back together, the flat side of the spring goes in first. Hook up the plunger to the spring and drop it down. Just twist it down then push the plunger down. When it's bottom out, it should go back up a little if you did this right. Put the dick back on the plunger and reattach the boot. Install in reverse order, and be careful of the ground spade on the slave cylinder.

Your good to go on the slave, now bleed the the line and your done. But were not done yet... We still have the master cylinder to do.

To take the master out, disconnect the brake line from master in the engine bay. Drain your fluid if you haven't before. Go underneath the dash, and pull off the c clip on the clutch pedal. Push through the pin and unscrew the dick from the bracket. Take it out and put those aside.

Take off the two 12mm nuts holding the master cylinder, with the two nuts off the master should be ready to come out. Go to the engine bay and wiggle it out, there shouldn't be anything in the way.

With the master out, drain/pour out any brake fluid left.

To take apart the master cylinder, grab a snap ring tool remover and remove the snap ring from the back of the master cylinder.

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...2afeaf9cd9.jpg

With the snap ring out, the plunger should pop out. Also a rubber cap and a spring as well. This is the order it comes out in. This is what comes with the clutch master cylinder rebuild kit.

The flat part of the spring be sitting on the bottom side, while the cone/flat head sits in the rubber cap, the copper washer/protector then plunger then snap ring.

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...1e17fec420.jpg

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...bf946d3971.jpg

It'll be tricky to the the plunger and spring back into place. But I used a screw driver, put the screw driver in the plunger and pushed down. Put the snap ring around the screw driver first. So when you push down, you can get the snap ring back on. It'll take a couple try's just wiggle it in, it should go down.

While it was apart I had some wal-mart silver primer, so I decided to paint it. Before and after.

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...46fd2cad5f.jpg
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...100401f41b.jpg
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...9f7d480f8c.jpg
With the slave
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...b4b33aa8b8.jpg

To put back the clutch master cylinder just reinstall in reverse order and reattach everything. Also have a friend help bleed the clutch. Your clutch pedal should feel a lot better with new seals.

So if you find yourself still losing pedal pressure after you rebuild the slave and the master. I say check to see if you have the ball in the bleeder hole. Because that was the problem I had. But, I guess only spending $9.00 on the slave kit and $16.00 on the master kit, a total of $25 for rebuilt system.

But back the the ball, I had been losing pressure at the pedal when holding it. I was wondering where the leak was coming from, so I looked in the haynes repair manual and it shows a ball under the bleeder valve. So when I go check to see if it's there, missing.

So you ask, where will you find something like that besides buying a new slave? Go grab a 3/8 extension you don't like. Grab a grinder or a dremel, and carefully cut away around the edges. Once you get it out, it fits perfect in the bleeder hole.

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...9364f625e6.jpg

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...b64beb46a6.jpg

The total time it took me to do this was about about 3 hours all together. You can purchase the rebuild kit and any local parts store. The skill involved would be 3 out of 10.

I'm will not be liable if you cannot, put your parts back together or they break.

Hope you guys enjoy.

 

How do you post pictures, besides having the link? But can people see the pictures? Just curious. Let me know what you all think.

 

Nice write-up. Much cheaper than replacing both items (which i did today). Probably should have went this route, but its good either way to be driving my car again.

john ny

 

I rebuilt mine first, and when that failed, i bought new.

Rebuild works sometimes, but not always. And, much cheaper.

 

Thanks, well. If you rebuilt it right, it shouldn't of gone on you. But this is just to save some money.

 

good write up. to post images directly into the thread use the [img] and [/img] tags.

 

Perfect timing... my system just failed on me yesterday!

Are there differences in the master/slave cylinders for t2s? Where do you get the rebuild kits for them? Or are they the same "soft parts" (boot, spring, etc)?

Also, if you are missing the bleeder ball, check for a bearing shop near you. That way you can keep from destoying your tools. You know you'll need them later anyway.

When I rebuild mine I'll post up the measurements of the ball.

 

Nice.

I just happen to do mine today.
$25 for Master and $40 for Slave and $18 for SS Line.

[img]YourPhotoLinkHere[/img]

 

I'm not sure of the difference between the t2 slave and n/a slave. But the price is about the same for the rebuild kit.

Hey lan, the line looks a little short... I had a SS line but it blew on me when I was putting it on. That's true about the bearing shop, but I didn't have a car to go there + it was at night when I replaced it. For the ball I just killed a china made extension. lol But thanks for the good comments everyone.

 

+1 Hardline missing??

 

i did this once, didnt work for very long. I think it was because of the scoring in the wall of the master cylinder from the gasket on the plunger/piston wore down. I dont think its worth it to rebuild them.

 

I used a wire wheel with a dremel to clean out the inside of the slave cylinder. I'll let you know how long it'll last for.

 

So I've got the MC and SS flex line, and I just ordered a new slave.

Anyone know where to find the clutch hardline? The one that goes from the MC to the firewall bracket.

Where can you find it? Mazdatrix does not list one for an FC on their site...

 

They make the proper tool to hone the bores...

 

Well if you have $20 you can just buy a ss line. For the proper tool to hone, it was at night and I was strapped for cash. I was making due with what I have.

 

It's fine. it's just a photo.

The hardline is on the car.
Slave - SS - Hardline - Master

It's been on the car for a while now. It's not short at all, just perfect

It's from CorkSport. Just didn't come with a washer.

 

Very good timing on the write-up. I'm removing/rebuilding the hydraulics on my father's vert and it's the first time I've working on clutch cylinders.

Forgive the noob question, but what is the purpose in removing the c-clip from the pedal and unbolting the rod coming through the firewall? From looking at the FSM it looks like the cylinder is setup in a push system with the cylinder spring. Is that rod going to come out from the engine side with the master cylinder?

Thanks again on the write-up, very helpful.

 

slave cylinders are different between turbo and non.


for rebuilding these units i recommend using some emory cloth on the inner bore...sometimes it isn't the rubber that fails.

 

Got the master cylinder rebuilt and I've come to realize that the top bolt coming through the firewall was designed by Satan with Kate Mose or the Smurfs being the only person who has any chance of gettting the nut started.

 

Damit i just got my slave and master replaced last WEEK ! about $200 somthing like that .

 

Sorry, for the late reply. But the purpose for removing the c clip and the rod is, so you can have more room on the top nut. I'd rather not struggle with a 12mm wrench.

 

Yeah, that's what I learned the hardway. Getting it off is no problems. I was having trouble getting the pin on the pedal offI had to stop working on it for family Easter stuff and haven't been back to my parents house since. This weekend I'll get it done.

Quick question, my father's fluid was real dark, which from reading up is contaminated probably from the corroded walls on the cylinders. Someone had mentioned using emry board to clean that up. Is that safe to use? Seems like if you clean too much surface off the cylinder wall you won't get a seal. Which may be what caused the cylinders to fail in the first place.

 

what is size of the treads on the T2 slave. 10mm 1.5? I need to build a custom length hose for my project car.

 

10 x 1.0, IIRC.

 

Thanks