SkaterAJR

Ive searched the forum and found some really good information but nothing with step-by-step instructions which is what I was looking for. Ive replaced a clutch in a MKIII supra before but its all the little things that im scared of breaking or screwing up. If any of you know of any place where I can find this, or an online manual that I can print out, it would be greatly appreciated.

-Thanks, Andrew

Camrann

Its the same thing. Unless ur taking of the flywheel then its a whole different story. Involving a hugeass 2 1'8 in nut.

Here is my write up for you.
First off you will need these items.

New pilot bearing and seal.
New release bearing.
Gear oil.
DOT 4 hydraulic fluid.
Pilot bearing puller strongly recommened






1.Disassembly

Get a transmission jack. Undo all shifter assembly form inside the car. Disconnect Ground battery cable. Jack the car up enough for clearance. Get it up high or i will be hard to slide the tranny out. Then disconnect all cables from tranny. Remove starter from tranny.Drain gear oil from the drain plug at the bottom of the transmission. Disconnect driveshaft. Be SURE and use some whiteout to mark a line on the driveshaft to differential flange to make sure u put it back on the same way it was.
Then make sure u have something to support the engine from falling back. Place the transmission jack under the transmission. Remove the transmission mount. Take out the four bolts from the engine to transmission. slide it back and lower it and pull it out form under the car. I would def suggest getting a friend in on this its nice to have. When u need tools quick.

2. Clutch assembly-

There are 6 bolts holding the clutch to the flywheel undo them in a cross pattern. Then use a screwdriver to pry the pressure plate loose. But be careful. Take of clutch disc. I would suggest resurfacing the flywheel professionally. To take it off. You need a 2-1/8in socket. And a huge breaker bar. Or an impact gun. ull have to rig something up to tighten it back. to 300ft/lbs. I used a 3ft cheater bar over a breaker bar with a torque wrench on the end set at 100ft/lbs. T=FxD. Make sure and spray all the surfaces on the flywheel and pressure plate. And lightly sand the clutch disk to insure purity from grease. Cuz even a fingerprint could **** it up later on. Ull need to pull the pilot bearing out and i would def get the tool cuz the other ways are pretty much impossible. And installing the New release bearing is straight foward.

3. Installation is the oppisite of removal. This writeup isnt xtremely detailed But it is good. Make sure and connect all the wires and grounds.
If u have other questions PM me

88t2romad

i STRONGLY suggest getting a haynes manuel. I used one for replacing my clutch, and at that time i did not have very much experience. Its pretty easy.

Camrann

Ditto. It has all the torque specs. And lots of other useful pics. And instructions.

Andrew.

iTrader: (4)

I wrote a quick rundown of what to take off a few posts back of mine, i think i included everything but speedo cable. If you've done a clutch job on a mk3 it should go by easy.

-Andrew

SkaterAJR

Sounds good, I do have a haynes manual but its still not the best. Does anyone eles haev anything, just for some cross reference. Or does anyone know of an online TSRM.

-Thanks, Andrew

xtremeskier97

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/faq-fc-frequently-asked-questions-2nd-generation-rx-7-a-181219/

Go there and download the manual that goes with your year car.

It's about the 3rd or 4th question down the page. It's the link to the shop manual.

Cybaster

so to remove the tranny, i should support the engine with a jack of some sort? i've seen from some prior posts, that the FB needed this support because of the engine mount locations... but the FCs should be ok....

and Camrann, how hard to u was it to take out the tranny? and i don't have a pilot puller, is it NEEDED or its BEST to have it?

DemonicPupil

i used a jack to hold up the engine... though it made things alot harder, I'd imagine it is recommended because the engine mounts are in a weird spot. Engine tilts around on them pretty easily.

I do not envy you having to replace your clutch

EDIT: btw, you will most likely have to move/remove your exhaust to get the driveshaft off (especially if your Y pipe is right under it) and then take off your drive shaft... make a mark so you know how it goes back on for balancing issues. After removing the driveshaft.. seal up the end of the tranny with a bag or something alot better than a bag (bag didn't work for me) or get something to let all the gear oil drain into. Drawing a blank on the rest of the stuff, but all that crap was a pain in the ****.

DemonicPupil

I didn't change my pilot bearing, things seem to be goin alrite for now. I'd imagine though that while it could be done a different way, the puller would be the absolute best bet.

Cybaster

sorry if i am hijacking the thread

anyways, i have a single exhaust going to the driver's side, so i HOPE it is not necessary to remove. Second thing is, the clutch seems fine still but that will be determined. Third, i am removing my tranny cuz i hear alot of crappy noises in all gears and idle except 4th.... so i am going to change all my bearings that i can, if it is stil present i will get another tranny....

anyone else tried removing the pliot before?

Camrann

well I took the tranny out without a jack stand and a friend. Its not that hard but its alot easier to get it out. I would say def. get one to put it back in. Cause stabbing the spleen can be a bitch While holding it up with ur arms. I'ts not hard to take out the tranny It just takes a sometime. If you have never done it before I'd say allow six hours, cause stuff goes wrong working on 14+ year old cars. The pilot puller Is not absolutely needed. But I would def suggest getting it. Cause the only other way I can think of to get it out is to. Put some grease in the hole and stick a SLIGHTLY smaller socket in the pilot bearing hole and tap it with a hammer. Thus hoping that the pressure from the grease will pop it out. But thats not to likely. Get the puller.

Camrann

I didnt take mine off till the reinstall. Although I have aftermarket exhaust.

DemonicPupil

my **** is aftermarket (or so i believe by the looks of it) and the Y pipe crossed right over top of the damn drive shaft *grumble*

Comitatus

iTrader: (7)

Anyone know the sizes of the 6 bolts that bolt the Clutch to the Flywheel?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Off the top of my head, the clutch bolts are M8 with a 1.0 thread pitch. PLEASE verify this, but I'm pretty sure I'm right since I just bought a tap to repair some damaged flywheel threads.

They are also grade 8 bolts, so don't just replace with whatever you happen to have around.

Comitatus

iTrader: (7)

I will check it out tonight when I get home. What are the length of the bolts?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

There are two different lengths. The smaller ones are about 3/4", and are threaded all the way down. The longer ones are about 1" long, and have a 1/4" of unthreaded shank below the head. All of them get assembled with red Loctite, and a lockwasher.

Why do you need these bolts anyway?

Comitatus

iTrader: (7)

Ok thanks, I appreciate it.

I need these because, I don't have them anymore. They disappeared. lol

RomeoFC3S

i just got my tranny out a few hours ago...i'm worry about putting it back.. i mean i just forced the tranny out without tilting the engine..good thing i didnt damage anything..
the damn middle bolt's long..i have no idea how am i gonna put the tranny out...

any of you guys have tricks on how and where to tilt the engine for tranny installation?? thanks

Cybaster

i forgot to mark where the long and short bolts go on the flywheel. What is the locations at which i should install them on the flywheel??

should i just install the long ones then short, then long then short..... in that pattern?

or is there special holes/locations on the flywheel to install each of the different kinds of bolts?

fc-austin

if you look at the flywheel you will be able to see some of the holes aren't threaded until about 1/4 in. down, that is where you put the 1" bolts

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

I know this is an old thread, but I just finished chasing my threads and they were definitely M8 1.25's.