Need some possible problems and hopefully possible solutions
08-20-06, 05:09 PM
#1
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Need some possible problems and hopefully possible solutions
Hey guys, trouble on my 88 GXL rx7, wonder if I can get some input.
After a 4 hour road trip, I pulled off the interstate to a funny sounding 'clank' which I could feel when resting my foot on the clutch rest. I drove for about 15 minutes more (normal driving, little to no rodding) and as I pulled onto a side street there was a final clanking sound followed by a loud snap. I immediately placed my car into neutral, and coasted to the side of the road where my car sputtered to a stop. I can start it back up and the engine shakes like crazy, my shifter shakes like crazy, and I can still hear that clanking sound. It'll start up, go to 2500 rpm (which, from what I’ve seen is pretty normal) and it'll sputter down to a complete stop again (it doesn't hold an idle). Once it is started I can hold the gas at about 2500 rpm and keep it alive, if I put more thottle in it sputters to a stop and ides, with no throttle it sputters to a stop and dies. After examining under my car (and looking behind it for parts that I thought might have fallen off the thing) I see that the hanger that is at the Y pipe has snapped off due to excess rusting (and probably from all the shaking, that also may explain the snapping sound).
I took it to a friend, he said it sounded like a mis-fire (which he didn't know if it was possible on a rotary engine) and that he could smell gas. Nothing drips from the car. We started by taking out the spark plugs to examine them, all appeared a normal brown color except for the lower plug on the rotor closest to the firewall, it was VERY black, VERY coated in carbon, and smelt of fuel. We did, how ever, pull it out, placed it to ground, and turned over the engine... it sparks. He says that he things he also sees a hole on the top side of the cat which explains why it sounds like the exhaust is coming from the middle of the car right behind the front tires. The car also holds oil pressure according to the gauge on the dash)
I can start it and move it short distances, slowly. If I apply high throttle it will accelerate but VERY slowly, it seems to be missing all power.
Can I get some input? If there is anything else I can say to help the diagnostics from you guys PLEASE let me know.
*On a side note, I just recently (about 3 weeks ago) took it into Mazda for a check up cause it just rolled over 100000 miles. The flushed the fuel injectors, replaced the fuel filter, de-carbed the engine, preformed a transmission service, and a coolant flush. They did not touch the plugs or wires or oil because I did that myself (wires and plugs about 3-4 months ago and oil less then 3000 miles before that check up).
After a 4 hour road trip, I pulled off the interstate to a funny sounding 'clank' which I could feel when resting my foot on the clutch rest. I drove for about 15 minutes more (normal driving, little to no rodding) and as I pulled onto a side street there was a final clanking sound followed by a loud snap. I immediately placed my car into neutral, and coasted to the side of the road where my car sputtered to a stop. I can start it back up and the engine shakes like crazy, my shifter shakes like crazy, and I can still hear that clanking sound. It'll start up, go to 2500 rpm (which, from what I’ve seen is pretty normal) and it'll sputter down to a complete stop again (it doesn't hold an idle). Once it is started I can hold the gas at about 2500 rpm and keep it alive, if I put more thottle in it sputters to a stop and ides, with no throttle it sputters to a stop and dies. After examining under my car (and looking behind it for parts that I thought might have fallen off the thing) I see that the hanger that is at the Y pipe has snapped off due to excess rusting (and probably from all the shaking, that also may explain the snapping sound).
I took it to a friend, he said it sounded like a mis-fire (which he didn't know if it was possible on a rotary engine) and that he could smell gas. Nothing drips from the car. We started by taking out the spark plugs to examine them, all appeared a normal brown color except for the lower plug on the rotor closest to the firewall, it was VERY black, VERY coated in carbon, and smelt of fuel. We did, how ever, pull it out, placed it to ground, and turned over the engine... it sparks. He says that he things he also sees a hole on the top side of the cat which explains why it sounds like the exhaust is coming from the middle of the car right behind the front tires. The car also holds oil pressure according to the gauge on the dash)
I can start it and move it short distances, slowly. If I apply high throttle it will accelerate but VERY slowly, it seems to be missing all power.
Can I get some input? If there is anything else I can say to help the diagnostics from you guys PLEASE let me know.
*On a side note, I just recently (about 3 weeks ago) took it into Mazda for a check up cause it just rolled over 100000 miles. The flushed the fuel injectors, replaced the fuel filter, de-carbed the engine, preformed a transmission service, and a coolant flush. They did not touch the plugs or wires or oil because I did that myself (wires and plugs about 3-4 months ago and oil less then 3000 miles before that check up).
08-20-06, 05:20 PM
#3
Do a compression test. Those symptoms are that of a blown engine. Any normal compression tester will work.
Pull the "EGI Comp" fuse from the engne bay fuse block. Take out both lower spark plugs, and thread the compression tester into the rear lower spark plug hole. Have a buddy crank the car over while holding the gas pedal to the floor. Hold down the releif valve on the compression tester, and watch the bounces for each face of the rotor. A good engine will read 90-90-90 or higher.
Repeat for the front, and post up your compression numbers.
Pull the "EGI Comp" fuse from the engne bay fuse block. Take out both lower spark plugs, and thread the compression tester into the rear lower spark plug hole. Have a buddy crank the car over while holding the gas pedal to the floor. Hold down the releif valve on the compression tester, and watch the bounces for each face of the rotor. A good engine will read 90-90-90 or higher.
Repeat for the front, and post up your compression numbers.
08-25-06, 11:04 PM
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This is awfuly hard for me to say... I've done the engine compression test and, with a tear in my eye, expected and accepted the results... The first rotar bounced at 100 3x, the second rotar (closest to the firewall) didn't even budge the needle on the tester... it's like the rotar wasn't moving at all inside. So, friends, my time with my rx-7 was short lived, and I've already moved on a '97 Mitsu 3kGT VR-4. Honestly, I liked my rx-7 better but I didn't have the time to work on it... if only I was in my own place of residence when the engine gave out... If there are any final words for me, please leave them on this thread, I'll visit here and there to check this thread and get any good byes or final words of advice or anyone who wants the car, I still have it in my possesion. Between my check-ups, I'll be on 3Si.org, the 3kGT fourms. Very sorry guys 
enjoy the RXs
enjoy the RXs
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