clutch hydraulics question
#1
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clutch hydraulics question
Ok, my clutch is not fully engaging.
I partially flushed the hydraulics system and it seems to be doing a little better. Is it possible that old/gross/thickened fluid would gum up the slave cylinder and cause it not to return all the way? This has caused an incredible shallowness to the pedal, as well. Please tell me that this is a hydraulic issue and I don't need a new clutch kit. Thanks.
I partially flushed the hydraulics system and it seems to be doing a little better. Is it possible that old/gross/thickened fluid would gum up the slave cylinder and cause it not to return all the way? This has caused an incredible shallowness to the pedal, as well. Please tell me that this is a hydraulic issue and I don't need a new clutch kit. Thanks.
#3
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Well, it can be many tings. How many miles on your car?
If the clutch master and slave are OEM, and your over 100K you will have some issues. If it were me, I would replace both. Reason being the system pick's up trace amounts of water. that water will erode the piston areas. Additionally, during a deep cold snap the brake fluid will actually freeze from the water heaving out of the seals between the piston and chamber and the resovoir and cylnder. Just replaced a set for that very reason. Replacements are economical and worth the time if your a DYI. Additionally, if both are off replace the flex line. Its sure to go sooner than later.
Note: this does not address any clutch assembly problems you might have. However, gunky fluid would having me do what I state above.
If the clutch master and slave are OEM, and your over 100K you will have some issues. If it were me, I would replace both. Reason being the system pick's up trace amounts of water. that water will erode the piston areas. Additionally, during a deep cold snap the brake fluid will actually freeze from the water heaving out of the seals between the piston and chamber and the resovoir and cylnder. Just replaced a set for that very reason. Replacements are economical and worth the time if your a DYI. Additionally, if both are off replace the flex line. Its sure to go sooner than later.
Note: this does not address any clutch assembly problems you might have. However, gunky fluid would having me do what I state above.
#4
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I checked and flushed the reservoir, and as for the mechanism, it seems to be working fine.
A rubber hose placed on the open bleeder valve pulsed with each pump. The clutch fork behind the slave cylinder moved a good bit. I don't feel that they are at fault. I believe that it's the throwout bearing or the clutch disc friction surface. It's slipping very badly, and the assembly probably needs replaced now anyway...
A rubber hose placed on the open bleeder valve pulsed with each pump. The clutch fork behind the slave cylinder moved a good bit. I don't feel that they are at fault. I believe that it's the throwout bearing or the clutch disc friction surface. It's slipping very badly, and the assembly probably needs replaced now anyway...
#5
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You might also make sure your adjustment at the clutch pedal (inside, by the firewall) is adjusted to spec.
otherwise, rebuild, clean, flush .... adjust pedal.
-Robert
otherwise, rebuild, clean, flush .... adjust pedal.
-Robert
#7
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I had a problem on my '88 SE. When I shifted into 4th or 5th, and got on it, the clutch would slip, but only in those gears. Until then, it worked perfectly - Nice, smooth engagement, no slip, etc. So I figured it wasn't the clutch. Turned out to be the slave cylinder. Put a brand new one on over a year ago and the problem disappeared immediately. I took the old one apart, and there was nothing unusual in there. I don't know why it was hanging up, but for $25, I'd recommend changing yours and see what happens.
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#8
Ban Peak
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Seriously man, If the cylinders are stock to the car, replace them. Nopi.com is the best place to buy replacements, you can get a new master cylinder and a new slave cylinder for about 60 bucks, much cheaper than mazdatrix. I just replaced mine, its a 2 hour DIY project until you need to bleed the system.
#10
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http://www.nopionline.com/ecat2004/d...01988&vaffid=0
That's for the entire cylinder, not just a rebuild kit, right?
That's for the entire cylinder, not just a rebuild kit, right?
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