ACE0000

My clutch just went out, and I decided I might as well get a lightweight flywheel aslo as long as im at it. I searched a little and didn't really find a definitive answer, so I decided to just ask a general question.

I have an 88 GXL with a full TII driveline swap. The mods I have are an S5 turbo and manifold, a bridgeport, 3 inch exhaust from the turbo back with no cats or mufflers, and an rtek 1.5, I am running at about 10psi and around 240whp.

So what I was wondering is what clutches are people with a similar setup using, and how do you like them as far as driveability and strength? I was also wondering about flywheel combinations and what lightweight flywheels work the best and with what clutches. I'm kind of new to RX-7s I've only had mine since february, so this might be commonly known information but I really have no idea even where to start as far as looking for a good clutch for the power my car has and that will also be driveable.

I used to have a Celica and it was easy on that if I ever needed a clutch I would have probably got a southbend because everyone swore by that, and almost everyone with a lightweight flywheel had a Fidanza, but so far I haven't really seen any consensus on a great clutch and flywheel for a turbo FC, so that is basically what I was wondering, whether there was any general consensus or not on a good clutch and flywheel combination, or at least on a certain brand or something.

jake1191

iTrader: (1)

ACT Street/Strip clutch kit. As far as a flywheel ,weight is a personal choice as far as streetability. Many say around a 13lb flywheel is good on the street. Again go with ACT they have alot of good feedback

ACE0000

Thanks a lot, that is basically exactly what I wanted, just a brand or two to look into because I have no idea which brands make good parts for the RX7.

ACE0000

I looked through some of the clutch kits and also the flywheels, I think I might go for the Heavy Duty pressure plate with the 6 pad spring clutch. It seems like it would be the best for good strength and durability without having a harsh engagement and a really stiff pedal, since the pressure plate is not excessively strong.

As far as the flywheel, I am looking for something more for road racing then drag racing, and my car will hopefully not be a daily driver for very long, so I am wondering whether I should go to for the 9 lb or 13 lb one, I am thinking the 9 lb one maybe but I am wondering if anyone has it and how much different/harder it is to drive a car with one.

jake1191

iTrader: (1)

Dont get a 6 puck. I had one and it ate my flywheel and is only good for a rarely run street car

ACE0000

Hmm maybe I should go for the strongest round one then. I was thinking about planning ahead since my goals for my car are eventually a 350 to 400whp road racing setup but I'm sure I could always change the clutch if it isn't strong enough. I still think I might go for the lighter flywheel but I wish I knew how different it is to drive, I'll try searching for a post on that maybe.

jake1191

iTrader: (1)

Then go with an Xtreme PP and performance street disk. Again the flywheel is up to an individual. There are people that are streeting 8.5 lb flywheels others say to go no less than 13lb. Yet like anything it will be different at first but you will get used to it eventually

2slow4stock

iTrader: (18)

People who have 8.5lbs flywheels also have to add the counter weight which is another 5-10lbs. So....


I have street driven a 9lbs flywheel not on a 7, didn't notice the difference. Since were talking in the 7 forum there's always a counter weight.

I'm running a 6 pluck clutch sprung. Hasn't damaged my flywheel or pressure plate yet. I have to say, I need to upgrade to a stage 4 though... My clutch slips at high rpm when I get peak boost. But I also have stock pressure plate, so I guess I'll upgrade that first.

I haven't had any bad experiences with a 6 pluck sprung, it's the 6 pluck unsprung i'd be worried about. (I blew up 7 transmission in my crx, when I had the 6 pluck unsprung.)


Ohh and if your beating on the car, buy a kevlar clutch. When it heats up, it can go back to it's shape. Besides organic or any other material, like when they heat up they wrap.

ACE0000

That is mostly why I wanted the 6 pad since it is kevlar also, I was looking at sprung because it causes less driveline shock and is probably better for doing a lot of high rpm shifting which is what you would need in road racing situations, the solid ones are more for drag racing I think. I'm a little worried about messing up the flywheel if I get an expensive lightweight one but I most likely will be rarely driving it only a few times a month and occasional races.

Yeah I'm sure the flywheel is mainly just a preference and something to get used to. So I could most likely get used to it fairly quickly and I'm sure it would help with rev matching, etc.

2slow4stock

iTrader: (18)

You are correct about the sprung clutch, it helps a **** ton with shock. When you get a flywheel, you might have it as a 2 piece, you could always replace the "surface" plate. If there's a bunch of Phillips head screw's then you can replace the surface plate on the flywheel. (Where the clutch comes into contact with.

wackaloo13

iTrader: (3)

you are running a stock s5 turbo with a bridge? Isnt that a bit small?

I run a stock flywheel with sprung 6puck and heavy duty pressure plate. No slipage at 400hp on my half bridge.

I chose the stock flywheel over a lightened one so that it would help keep the idle a bit more steady. If i were you i would use teh stock fly wheel

2slow4stock

iTrader: (18)

Yeah, I would. It only helps if you track the car. I'm going to buy a new clutch set up anyways. Still sticking with the 6 pluck.

ACE0000

Good that is exactly what I am going for. I might try the lighter flywheel though anyways, because I am planning on tracking the car eventually and it probably will be rarely used on the road after this summer is over.

And yeah the turbo is a bit small but I have only had the car a few months and I bought the car the way it is. I think the previous owner didn't have enough time or money to do everything that was needed for a bigger turbo. But to his credit it was a GXL when he got it so he did all the work putting in the TII driveline, and I think he just wanted to get the most out of the TII engine before he put it in so that is probably why he did all the porting on it. What he did do though is all done top notch and works great, at least until the clutch went. And after all that work everything that would be needed for the bigger turbo, like an FMIC, Piping, the turbo of course, etc. was probably just a bit too much for him since he was planning on selling it anyways.

12AllWays

iTrader: (20)

So to sum up lightwieght flywheels... Does this sound good? The lightest (8-9lb) are great for road racing or street if you feel the need. The slightly heavier ones(11-13lb) are great for street/Drag strip application... Or would the really light ones be good for Drag too?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

A 6-puck disk w/ heavy duty pressure plate is way too much clutch for a stock turbo'd car. It's overkill, will hurt driveability, and not last anywhere near as long as a stock-like organic disk. I have a Spec stg. 1 (upgraded p-plate and modified organic disk) with 12k miles on it. Pedal pressure is barely any more than stock, and it has never slipped under load.

Furb

iTrader: (2)

ACT prolite flywheel
ACT counterweight
ACT street/strip disc
ACT extreme pressure plate

i got this and it is very good stuff! multiple launches with 400+Nm with no problems at all