Clutch Chatter Problem (lightweight flywheel, centerforce dual frict clutch)
07-18-05, 10:39 AM
#1
Clutch Chatter Problem (lightweight flywheel, centerforce dual frict clutch)
Ok when i press my clutch i can hear some kind of noise when i have the pedal down/engaged, it still drives fine but I dont know if this is normal since the clutch and lightweight flywheel are brand new and so is the engine(rebuilt)
Is it normal to hear some kind of noise like this on the clutch on clutch breakin ? I wouldnt know because i never had a new one
edit - I also havent driven the car much so i cant really say it drives 100% but it drives giving me no problems into gear, switches gears smoothly
Is it normal to hear some kind of noise like this on the clutch on clutch breakin ? I wouldnt know because i never had a new one
edit - I also havent driven the car much so i cant really say it drives 100% but it drives giving me no problems into gear, switches gears smoothly
07-18-05, 11:10 AM
#2
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To be honest, i dont think it sounds normal, i have an FD flywheel and a Centerforce clutch like yours.... but someone with more experience will come along and if i'm wrong, will correct me....
how loud is the noise?...
how loud is the noise?...
07-18-05, 11:58 AM
#4
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I too am getting the same sort of sound. I thought it was clutch chatter, but I can hear the noise when driving slowly in first gear while giving it quick shots of throttle. I am thinking my noise must be a bad mount somewhere.
07-18-05, 12:14 PM
#5
im not sure what it is , i just want to know that its ok, someone told me it could be my throwout bearing is bad or something to do with it
i did replace it with a new mazda t/o bearing, but someone said it could just be a defective one , i am going to try to have someone look at it
i did replace it with a new mazda t/o bearing, but someone said it could just be a defective one , i am going to try to have someone look at it
07-18-05, 12:16 PM
#6
Originally Posted by Archangels
To be honest, i dont think it sounds normal, i have an FD flywheel and a Centerforce clutch like yours.... but someone with more experience will come along and if i'm wrong, will correct me....
how loud is the noise?...
how loud is the noise?...
i havent driven it enough to know what the problem really is, sometimes it seems liek it bogs down when i hold it down but i havent driven it enough to really know. Ive never even driven it before , driving it now is my first
Last edited by wthdidusay82; 07-18-05 at 12:18 PM.
07-18-05, 11:53 PM
#7
so is this normal ? or am i victim to a bad t/o bearing ? cuz it does seem like it may not be normal, it switches gears fine but when it comes to idling when its pressed/engaged it doesnt seem to idle solid
edit - it also seems like i have to be quick with the clutch and gas or the idle/driveability will suffer
i hope to have it looked at by someone who knows more than i do soon
edit - it also seems like i have to be quick with the clutch and gas or the idle/driveability will suffer
i hope to have it looked at by someone who knows more than i do soon
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07-19-05, 12:44 AM
#9
Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
we'd need more details to be able to figure out your problem my friend...
is the noise CONSTANT or just when you push in the clutch or just when you let out the clutch?
is the noise CONSTANT or just when you push in the clutch or just when you let out the clutch?
ill try to get you more feedback once i fix some other probs my car is giving me so i can better give details on this
07-19-05, 12:53 AM
#10
just go out and start the car with it in neutral, then let off the clutch.
if the noise only happens when the clutch pedal is OUT (clutch engaged) its the throwout bearing.
if its all the time (clutch engaged or disengaged) then it may be the pilot bearing. did you replace the pilot bearing and the throwout bearing when you did this rebuild/clutch ?
if the noise only happens when the clutch pedal is OUT (clutch engaged) its the throwout bearing.
if its all the time (clutch engaged or disengaged) then it may be the pilot bearing. did you replace the pilot bearing and the throwout bearing when you did this rebuild/clutch ?
07-19-05, 01:16 AM
#11
Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
just go out and start the car with it in neutral, then let off the clutch.
if the noise only happens when the clutch pedal is OUT (clutch engaged) its the throwout bearing.
if its all the time (clutch engaged or disengaged) then it may be the pilot bearing. did you replace the pilot bearing and the throwout bearing when you did this rebuild/clutch ?
if the noise only happens when the clutch pedal is OUT (clutch engaged) its the throwout bearing.
if its all the time (clutch engaged or disengaged) then it may be the pilot bearing. did you replace the pilot bearing and the throwout bearing when you did this rebuild/clutch ?
it seems like it only happens when i have the clutch pedal pushed down all the way (this would be disengaged i think), i could ask kevin landers if he did replace the pilot bearing but i am pretty sure he did since he installed my flywheel and clutch for me when he rebuilt my engine
07-19-05, 09:12 AM
#13
Originally Posted by RETed
How old is the clutch?
How much miles on the clutch?
What did you do to break in the clutch?
-Ted
How much miles on the clutch?
What did you do to break in the clutch?
-Ted
clutch is brand new theres like 20 miles on it if that, im breaking it in the same way im breaking in the motor (engine is rebuillt) easy into gear , and going up to max of 4000-4500rpms and rarely do i press the gas all the way down. flywheel is also brand new with same mileage
07-19-05, 09:49 AM
#15
Originally Posted by Jager
4,000 4,500 RPMs on a 20 mile rebuild...
That's not good my friend.
That's not good my friend.
i am basically getting so sick of this car lately all it is causing me is problems, everything i do on it is WRONG lke it is cursed or something , maybe i should change my screename to RXHEX
i put over 2500 $ into this car and alongwith the price of the car $1000 and parts car $325 , im looking at a total of roughly $3800 dollars, my engine has a warranty on it too. Im not very experienced with rotary engines but i find im learning everything the hard way because I have NO HELP other than on here, which isnt much help when im the one working on the car and cant figure out certain things on here
kevin landers told me its fine to drive it to 4000rpm, i dont hit 4500 rpm purposely it just happened to go that high when i hit the gas a couple times its not like i am purposely doing it like i am tryin to beat on it
Im becoming very impatient with this car lately, it seems more and more people are telling me i am doing things i shouldnt be and it just makes me want to break things. I put over 100 hours of work and over 500 posts of research on here in the past 9 months since i got the car. It is finally running 5 days ago.
07-19-05, 09:52 AM
#16
Rebuilt Engine Start-up & Break-in Information
Specifically for Rotary Resurrection Rebuilds
Once a fresh rebuild is assembled and installed there are a couple of things to do before trying to make it run. Here is an outline, as well as breakin recommendations. These can apply to any rebuild, professional or self-built. It is also recommended to have a fuel cutoff switch installed(for 2gens) before trying to start a rebuild, as it will want to flood every time it is shut off.
1) Remove EGI fuses underhood (if working on a carbed or modified model disable fuel and spark to prevent starting)
2) Crank for 10 seconds at a time, once per minute, at least 3 times, to prime the oil system and build oil pressure before startup. You can usually see 20-30psi of oil pressure during cranking.
3) Inject some oil into the lower plug holes of each chamber to help build compression for startup. Fresh rebuilds with old housings are very low compression initially.
4) Make preparations to idle the engine up before startup. A rebuild will not even consider idling normally for the first few hours. Use the hard idle set screw(on throttle body by linkages, 8mm locknut with flathead setscrew inside, covered by factory jb weld) to adjust the throttle somewhat open at idle, a few turns are necessary. You want the rebuild to idle at around 1500rpm for the first day or more. IF you don't do this ahead of time, and you're by yourself, youll be stuck inside the car holding the gas instead of outside checking for leaks and such, and if you stop the engine it'll be hard to get started again.
5) A battery charger or external jump(another car) is sometimes helpful in starting a rebuild, as old or partially discharged batteries sometimes lack the strength to really kick over an engine and build enough compression to start. A strong charge is a must here.
6) Be prepared for smoke…there is assembly lube in the engine, which will be burned out in the form of smoke. Expect this to get into your exhaust and smoke can remain for up to 8 hours afterwards until it is all burned out slowly.
7) Be prepared to watch for leaks…oil lines, coolant hoses, gaskets, and other connections should be examined for leaks. Youll also want to keep an eye on the gauges…oil pressure, water temperature, voltage, etc.
8) Once it is running and youre satisfied everything is stable, set the idle to around 1500rpm and let it be. Since compression is constantly changing, there isn't much use in adjusting and readjusting idle and TPS settings until breakin is almost complete, as the settings will change almost daily. Right now, the more you can drive it, the better. It is very helpful for the first few days even to just let it idle in the driveway all day.
9) Breakin should be completed as follows.Keep rpms under 4000, oil changes at 500 and 2000 miles, and no boost above atmospheric(turbo models).
10) Great improvements in starting, idle quality and overall smoothness/power will begin occurring immediately, but most improvement will be reached by 1500 miles, at which time you can gradually increase rpm and boost. By the time the engine reaches 2000 miles, it is basically broken in and can be treated as you wish within reason.
From Kevin's site.
Specifically for Rotary Resurrection Rebuilds
Once a fresh rebuild is assembled and installed there are a couple of things to do before trying to make it run. Here is an outline, as well as breakin recommendations. These can apply to any rebuild, professional or self-built. It is also recommended to have a fuel cutoff switch installed(for 2gens) before trying to start a rebuild, as it will want to flood every time it is shut off.
1) Remove EGI fuses underhood (if working on a carbed or modified model disable fuel and spark to prevent starting)
2) Crank for 10 seconds at a time, once per minute, at least 3 times, to prime the oil system and build oil pressure before startup. You can usually see 20-30psi of oil pressure during cranking.
3) Inject some oil into the lower plug holes of each chamber to help build compression for startup. Fresh rebuilds with old housings are very low compression initially.
4) Make preparations to idle the engine up before startup. A rebuild will not even consider idling normally for the first few hours. Use the hard idle set screw(on throttle body by linkages, 8mm locknut with flathead setscrew inside, covered by factory jb weld) to adjust the throttle somewhat open at idle, a few turns are necessary. You want the rebuild to idle at around 1500rpm for the first day or more. IF you don't do this ahead of time, and you're by yourself, youll be stuck inside the car holding the gas instead of outside checking for leaks and such, and if you stop the engine it'll be hard to get started again.
5) A battery charger or external jump(another car) is sometimes helpful in starting a rebuild, as old or partially discharged batteries sometimes lack the strength to really kick over an engine and build enough compression to start. A strong charge is a must here.
6) Be prepared for smoke…there is assembly lube in the engine, which will be burned out in the form of smoke. Expect this to get into your exhaust and smoke can remain for up to 8 hours afterwards until it is all burned out slowly.
7) Be prepared to watch for leaks…oil lines, coolant hoses, gaskets, and other connections should be examined for leaks. Youll also want to keep an eye on the gauges…oil pressure, water temperature, voltage, etc.
8) Once it is running and youre satisfied everything is stable, set the idle to around 1500rpm and let it be. Since compression is constantly changing, there isn't much use in adjusting and readjusting idle and TPS settings until breakin is almost complete, as the settings will change almost daily. Right now, the more you can drive it, the better. It is very helpful for the first few days even to just let it idle in the driveway all day.
9) Breakin should be completed as follows.Keep rpms under 4000, oil changes at 500 and 2000 miles, and no boost above atmospheric(turbo models).
10) Great improvements in starting, idle quality and overall smoothness/power will begin occurring immediately, but most improvement will be reached by 1500 miles, at which time you can gradually increase rpm and boost. By the time the engine reaches 2000 miles, it is basically broken in and can be treated as you wish within reason.
From Kevin's site.
.
07-19-05, 09:56 AM
#18
goingabove 4000 rpm was not someting i did on purpose, its not like i went to 5000-7000
also when i first started it up the jackass i had helping me reved the **** out of it on its first startup right as it was starting up the very first time, you think im happy about this ? nothing i can do about it now, just like everything else it is all in the past
i can only hope my engine will be fine and good to last me some 50-100,000 miles
you have no idea how much work i have put into this car and doing it all myself pretty much with minimal help , it is very frustrating and makes me want to give up on it sometimes because i feel im only making things worse by trying
what i really need is someone who is professional that works on rotary to tune up my car for me but there is no one around here that specializes in it , and anyone that says they will work on it around here is going to charge the max price and probably take the max amount of time to figure out the problems since they prolly dont realy know much about rotary
also when i first started it up the jackass i had helping me reved the **** out of it on its first startup right as it was starting up the very first time, you think im happy about this ? nothing i can do about it now, just like everything else it is all in the past
i can only hope my engine will be fine and good to last me some 50-100,000 miles
you have no idea how much work i have put into this car and doing it all myself pretty much with minimal help , it is very frustrating and makes me want to give up on it sometimes because i feel im only making things worse by trying
what i really need is someone who is professional that works on rotary to tune up my car for me but there is no one around here that specializes in it , and anyone that says they will work on it around here is going to charge the max price and probably take the max amount of time to figure out the problems since they prolly dont realy know much about rotary
Originally Posted by Jager
Rebuilt Engine Start-up & Break-in Information
Specifically for Rotary Resurrection Rebuilds
Once a fresh rebuild is assembled and installed there are a couple of things to do before trying to make it run. Here is an outline, as well as breakin recommendations. These can apply to any rebuild, professional or self-built. It is also recommended to have a fuel cutoff switch installed(for 2gens) before trying to start a rebuild, as it will want to flood every time it is shut off.
1) Remove EGI fuses underhood (if working on a carbed or modified model disable fuel and spark to prevent starting)
2) Crank for 10 seconds at a time, once per minute, at least 3 times, to prime the oil system and build oil pressure before startup. You can usually see 20-30psi of oil pressure during cranking.
3) Inject some oil into the lower plug holes of each chamber to help build compression for startup. Fresh rebuilds with old housings are very low compression initially.
4) Make preparations to idle the engine up before startup. A rebuild will not even consider idling normally for the first few hours. Use the hard idle set screw(on throttle body by linkages, 8mm locknut with flathead setscrew inside, covered by factory jb weld) to adjust the throttle somewhat open at idle, a few turns are necessary. You want the rebuild to idle at around 1500rpm for the first day or more. IF you don't do this ahead of time, and you're by yourself, youll be stuck inside the car holding the gas instead of outside checking for leaks and such, and if you stop the engine it'll be hard to get started again.
5) A battery charger or external jump(another car) is sometimes helpful in starting a rebuild, as old or partially discharged batteries sometimes lack the strength to really kick over an engine and build enough compression to start. A strong charge is a must here.
6) Be prepared for smoke…there is assembly lube in the engine, which will be burned out in the form of smoke. Expect this to get into your exhaust and smoke can remain for up to 8 hours afterwards until it is all burned out slowly.
7) Be prepared to watch for leaks…oil lines, coolant hoses, gaskets, and other connections should be examined for leaks. Youll also want to keep an eye on the gauges…oil pressure, water temperature, voltage, etc.
8) Once it is running and youre satisfied everything is stable, set the idle to around 1500rpm and let it be. Since compression is constantly changing, there isn't much use in adjusting and readjusting idle and TPS settings until breakin is almost complete, as the settings will change almost daily. Right now, the more you can drive it, the better. It is very helpful for the first few days even to just let it idle in the driveway all day.
9) Breakin should be completed as follows.Keep rpms under 4000, oil changes at 500 and 2000 miles, and no boost above atmospheric(turbo models).
10) Great improvements in starting, idle quality and overall smoothness/power will begin occurring immediately, but most improvement will be reached by 1500 miles, at which time you can gradually increase rpm and boost. By the time the engine reaches 2000 miles, it is basically broken in and can be treated as you wish within reason.
From Kevin's site.
Specifically for Rotary Resurrection Rebuilds
Once a fresh rebuild is assembled and installed there are a couple of things to do before trying to make it run. Here is an outline, as well as breakin recommendations. These can apply to any rebuild, professional or self-built. It is also recommended to have a fuel cutoff switch installed(for 2gens) before trying to start a rebuild, as it will want to flood every time it is shut off.
1) Remove EGI fuses underhood (if working on a carbed or modified model disable fuel and spark to prevent starting)
2) Crank for 10 seconds at a time, once per minute, at least 3 times, to prime the oil system and build oil pressure before startup. You can usually see 20-30psi of oil pressure during cranking.
3) Inject some oil into the lower plug holes of each chamber to help build compression for startup. Fresh rebuilds with old housings are very low compression initially.
4) Make preparations to idle the engine up before startup. A rebuild will not even consider idling normally for the first few hours. Use the hard idle set screw(on throttle body by linkages, 8mm locknut with flathead setscrew inside, covered by factory jb weld) to adjust the throttle somewhat open at idle, a few turns are necessary. You want the rebuild to idle at around 1500rpm for the first day or more. IF you don't do this ahead of time, and you're by yourself, youll be stuck inside the car holding the gas instead of outside checking for leaks and such, and if you stop the engine it'll be hard to get started again.
5) A battery charger or external jump(another car) is sometimes helpful in starting a rebuild, as old or partially discharged batteries sometimes lack the strength to really kick over an engine and build enough compression to start. A strong charge is a must here.
6) Be prepared for smoke…there is assembly lube in the engine, which will be burned out in the form of smoke. Expect this to get into your exhaust and smoke can remain for up to 8 hours afterwards until it is all burned out slowly.
7) Be prepared to watch for leaks…oil lines, coolant hoses, gaskets, and other connections should be examined for leaks. Youll also want to keep an eye on the gauges…oil pressure, water temperature, voltage, etc.
8) Once it is running and youre satisfied everything is stable, set the idle to around 1500rpm and let it be. Since compression is constantly changing, there isn't much use in adjusting and readjusting idle and TPS settings until breakin is almost complete, as the settings will change almost daily. Right now, the more you can drive it, the better. It is very helpful for the first few days even to just let it idle in the driveway all day.
9) Breakin should be completed as follows.Keep rpms under 4000, oil changes at 500 and 2000 miles, and no boost above atmospheric(turbo models).
10) Great improvements in starting, idle quality and overall smoothness/power will begin occurring immediately, but most improvement will be reached by 1500 miles, at which time you can gradually increase rpm and boost. By the time the engine reaches 2000 miles, it is basically broken in and can be treated as you wish within reason.
From Kevin's site.
Last edited by wthdidusay82; 07-19-05 at 09:59 AM.
07-19-05, 10:11 AM
#20
Originally Posted by Jager
Have you checked the regional (I can't spell right now) to see if anything is in your area? I'm sure someone would be willing to stop buy for a beer and help you out.
Sorry to hear about the revving jackass.
Sorry to hear about the revving jackass.
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