ZOMBE

Where can I find the adjustment for the clutch cable? I looked everywhere and could not locate it. Thanks in advance.

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

It's a hydraulic clutch.

There is only one adjustment and that is the push rod to the master cylinder. This was set from the factory and should never have to be changed.

What makes you want to adjust the clutch?

ZOMBE

Clutch is pretty much going out. I know if I adjust the cable I should be able to get it to work for just a little bit longer until I can replace the clutch.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

You clutch doesn't have a cable.

You would need to get a Honduh, then adjust that cable.

Seriously, check the clutch master fluid level. If it is low, this indicates a leak. If the clutch hose is leaking, you will have trouble getting the clutch the disengage. A leaking master or slave could do the same, but 20 yearold hoses are just ready to burst.

Stainless steel braided clutch hose from Mazdatrix.com is under $20 shipped.

ZOMBE

Well I was low on clutch fluid and filled it up, yet my clutch still feels weak and won't go into drive. It was fine one night and in the morning I turned the car on and clutch felt weak. It worked for a few days before totally going out... Any suggestions? Could fluid be drained from the master cylinder? Any way to fill that up?

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Hey, your post is really confusing. If you filled the 'clutch fluid', you filled the clutch master cylinder. It is located on the firewall next to the driver side fender. The reservoir is clear plastic and the cover is black plastic. If this was drained out, your hose is likely broken. When you get a new hose, you need to bleed the new hose to remove the air. If this is NOT what you filled with clutch fluid, then you are in need of a little guidance.

BTW, clutch fluid is the same as brake fluid.

Have you downloaded the Factory Service Manual? It is available free. I don't know what year you have, but here is a link to the list of FSM. Download the clutch section and you will find lots of information there.

You may also need to get a Haynes manual and look it over.

Good Luck!

ZOMBE

Yeah I just read over my post, sorry. I meant is there a possibility the fluid isn't making it way through the hose? I filled it up directly at max using Dot 3 brake fluid and it was down about a good inch less than 5 minutes later so I leveled it back to max. I will check in the morning to see if it has leaked out any more. Do they make a chemical I can put in the see where the leak is coming from if it's leaking? When I previously filled it up, the level was a little bit above minimum, I was just hoping that would fix my clutch problem, so far it hasn't. I don't believe I burnt out the clutch cause it worked the night before perfectly, then in the morning it just pushed to the floor way to easily.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

.you really should be reading up on this.If the clutch is loosing fluid,then Check to see where it is going.You can't add a sealer or anything else to the fluid to Fix this.
If you are Real lazy,then just buy the Complete Hydraulic system(master cylinder,flex hose and Slave cylinder) and that would run you about 150 USD.
The "usual Problematic Part" is the slave cylinder because the Plunger is always in action.The Seal goes there.But the master can also Leak into itself,NO fluid loss,but Squishy Pedal,No pressure.
The Forum is great to Find out How to Fix ****,But Nothing Beats Getting Greasy and actually looking at the car!..I'm working on the Fourth Version of my Car.I know every bolt on it.Because I put it there!//Good Luck.

JxT

iTrader: (7)

You didn't answer whether or not you bled the system or just filled it. It might just need a good bleeding.

Black91n/a

Figuring out where its leaking is easy, clean it up, then later on after using it a bit, find out where its wet. The hose can and does leak. If the reservoir was low, then you'll have air in the system and will need to bleed it (there's a bleed nipple on the slave cylinder, which is on the transmission).

Chances are since it was low and got low again, its leaking, so you need to fix the leak, nothing else will solve the problem. By the way, brake fluid is an incredibly effective paint stripper, so you definitely want to find and fix the leak.

ZOMBE

In the morning I will bleed the system and see if that helps at all. Thanks for all the replies. Is there a way to be 100% that the slave is out? I don't want to spend that much money on replacing it and have it be the clutch.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

you might as well replace the slave, the master and the hose if the car is still on original hydraulics at this point.

If the clutch is still weak at that point, you'll know you have to change the clutch, but on the plus side, once you do, you'll never have to worry about changing anything related to the clutch system for awhile, besides your usual clutch bleed.

ZOMBE

Well I went ahead and did the clutch bleed and it works perfectly now. Hopefully it stays that way. Thanks everybody for all your help.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

there is a Question though.
How did the clutch Get that way?It is usually a Symptom of the hydraulics going to Take a Dump on ya.IF the Clutch starts to feel Squishy again,put the Car up on Stands and look for the Leak.The master is Tricky,you wil have to undo it and see if it is leaking in between the firewall and the Master.(at the Pedal plunger).The Slave though,you can see with a Flashlight when you Crawl up under the car,Or you look and Feel carefully from above.Put your arm in towards the Slave,from the Driver's side,back of engine.

ZOMBE

Honestly it worked when I came home at about 3am, went to turn the car on in the morning and clutch had no pressure to it. I thought at first maybe I had just gotten use to the clutch being a little firm but a few days later no gear would change at all. Now since I drained I get no grinding, goes into gears easily. I will be monitoring the clutch very closely, checking for leaks and possible air bubbles if clutch starts to lose pressure again.

Black91n/a

Don't only check if you see symptoms again. Check the fluid level in the reservoir every day or so for at least a week. If you don't see any change after a while, check less frequently.

Stuff like that doesn't just happen for no reason, something's wrong and will continue to be wrong untill you fix it.

JxT

iTrader: (7)

I experienced the same oddity awhile back. Couldn't get into gear and saw that the fluid was low. I filled and bled it and checked it for a month and the fluid level never dropped. I don't know the reasoning behind it. Maybe I have a leak that takes 20+ years for it to reach that low.