mk1ldragon

I was on my way to work this morning and waiting a light I depress the clutch and it never came back up. There has been no signs of it giving like slipping or abnormal noises. So it didn't come back up so I lifted it up with my foot and depressed it and it came up half way kinda. So it was driveable alittle. I drove back home doing 30kph in the right lane and backed it into the driveway and turned it off. I depressed the clutch and it went straight to the floor. Lifted it up with my foot and touched it with one finger and it went down by itself. What does this all mean. I went to my parts store and my old dude parts guy said it sounds like hydraulic lock. I was actually reading the mazda manual about the procedure that he told me to try with the hose on the bleeder with the other end in a clear bottle of brake fluid. Sorry the story is so long. So whats wrong with my fc



My engine mods are : hks to4e turbo, hks fmic, hks manual boost controller, MS. T-Bac II electronic boost controller, greddy turbo timer, hks additional injectors and controller, ultm Racing beat ret hot wires, denso power-up igniter, ultra-flow intake, rb exhaust, racing clutch(don't know brand), aluminum light-weight fly-wheel(don't know the brand).Is it the Clutch

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

sounds like the master cylinder but it very well could be a damaged clutch fork pivot in the bellhousing.

mk1ldragon

Any suggestions if it is the clutch on the type of racing clutch I should get. I don't care about the driveability as long as it's not super crazy stiff. I want it to be able to handle the power I am making and if I go stand alone computer to be able to handle more...

all suggestions welcome and thanks...

RandomHero

iTrader: (2)

Yup, its hydraulic. Check to make sure you arent losing any fluid, that line likes to break. Its a good idea to get the stainless line. Anyway if your not losing any fluid, then try to bleed the system, im sure the procedure would come up from a search.

mk1ldragon

so I might need to rebuild my master cylinder. I"m gonna check and bleed it also. Thanks for the suggestions. Anything else that I can check?

bigzman

iTrader: (1)

do not forget to check thew slav cylinder had the same problem and replaced both.

RETed

Check the hydraulics - it's most likely clutch master, clutch slave hose, clutch slave cylinder or all 3.

If you can have a friend help you out, this will make it easier.

See if you can get a good visual on the clutch slave cylinder on the clutch fork.
If you have the stock TMIC still there, it would help to remove it.
Tell your friend to press the clutch pedal up and down.
See if you can spot the clutch fork being actuated.
If it doesn't move, or moves very little, it's the clutch hydraulics as listed above.

If you see it moving, then it could be clutch fork (highly doubtful) or the clutch itself...but I'm pretty sure it's the hydraulics.


-Ted

Ottoman

yup.. happend to me

I changed the master and slave cyl.... and it was still losing fluid on me..

turned out it was the "hose" that connects to the slave cylinder..

lost one completely... the second is now "sweating" and the fluid goes down every 3 days.. gotta keep toppin it up... gotta get a steel braided one soon...

gildardo

If the clutch hydrolic fluid is dirty, it means that something is wrong with the master or slave. Fluid shoudnt be dirty..


gil

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

normal wear and tear will darken the fluid. it is a good indication that some components may need to be changed soon though.

Kingsfan

iTrader: (12)

it was all 3 parts for me too, waiting for my stainless line to come in...