i know the haynes manual says to remove lots of stuff from the car before been able to remove the transmision to gain acces to the cluth. but i know some of you might of done this already, so with that in mind. could you let me know what things i can get buy without removing. to replace my clutch ,( mind you i am putting a stock clutch kit. thank ahead of time


and hopefully ill look like this after i get done and impresed with my car

 

I just did my clutch. Follow EVERY instructin to avoid possible headaches.

First the tools. Youll need a jack, jack stands, various metric sockets (yet to see an american sized nut/bolt on my car). extensions, multiple drive sizes, u-joint sockets, torque wrench, MAZDA pilot bearing puller (my car sat for a month before I wised up and got the right tool for the job, and then it took about 2 minutes to pull it out) air gun to remove flywheel.

Raise car high into air, support well with jack stands.

Remove Exhaust, heat shields and everything except downpipe (couldn't figure out how to get it off).

take off the drive shaft, be sure to take off the slave cylinder in the engine compartment (or else youll have a hell of a time trying to get the tranny out while the slave cylinder is stuck on some lines) then the trans will just slide right out. Me and my buddy got the trans out by ourselves (be sure to drain the fluids so you can put new redline fluids in later). Also try to mark where all the wires go and alot of crap is grounded to the trans bellhousing so mark that too.

i just shoved a piece of wood in between the downpipe and the flywheel ring gear to stop it from moving while removing the pressure plate. then you can pull the flywheel using the air gun and then a puller (from mazdatrix). Get it resurfaced, install new pilot bearing, throw out bearing, clutch and pressure plate. Install in reverse order. Thats all i can really remember, if i did it again it would prolly only take like 6-8 hours or so. Just make sure you torque everyting to spec to avoid losing something in the middle of a race. BTW, i picked up an ACT Heavy Duty Pressure plate and now I can chirp third. (or atleast wheel hop it since my shocks suck)

Basically I can tell you that most shortcuts end up costing you and the right tools ALWAYS make a job smoother. (at least thats how it works for me)

 

ok replaced the clutch the car takes the gears just fine but under fast accel. the car acts like clutch sliping. what could this be?

thanks.

 

Depending on how hard you are hitting it, you may be seeing the limits of a stock clutch. After I put a stock clutch in mine, I could take 1st to 7k and nail 2nd, but I had to lift the throttle at 7k for about half a second into 3rd, to keep from buzzing the clutch.

 

yes it is a stock clutch but the funny thing is it happens shifting smoths around 3k to 5k rpms. thats what blows me . please help

asap thanks..............................

 

this is my daily driver to work . i know some of you had this happen before on your first clutch install any help will be gladly apreciated.

 

Did u adjust the clutch pedal height after installing the new clutch? If not, it might not be releasing all the way.

Henrik
87TII

 

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