rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

I must say, ironically today i was pretty happy with how well my FC has been holding up until i exited my freeway's off ramp on my way home from work. then to my attention the sound of random metal rattling under my carriage ( i thought i ran over some metal, no biggie) then i notice my temp gauge creep up to 3/4 (i would say accurately ) so i new something was a miss.. luckily my garage was close. car didnt make any funny noises just idled at 1.5k i popped the hood and noticed one of the metal vertical tie rods holding my battery down is gone, that explains that. then i look in and see there is a belt missing; mind you my car is leaking coolant from the over flow bottle (im assuming). i was poking around and it seems that when the tie rod came out it took one of my belts with it. i wasnt sure which one so i went to the local autozone and asked them what belts they had for my car. they listed 3 alternator, air pump and ac/ps? now i know my car doesnt have ac or power steering. so i bought the other 2. now its just a matter of getting them on there. im pretty sure there was no damage to my engine. but i guess i wont know untill i get it running again. anything i should know?

so in short, i guess what i am asking is for a walk through to change the belts? i know, i know. noob. but any help would be appreciated.

Spirit-RE

iTrader: (25)

If coolant was coming out the overflow and the temp gauge was at 3/4 it overheated. How bad is the question. Might be fine.


Loosen the bracket on the drivers side of the alternator, slide it down, replace belt, pull the alternator up tight, retighten the alternator to the bracket

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

3/4 on the S4 gauge isn't that high. It's around 215-220F. But the real danger is if the water pump was not running, you could have had parts of the engine get much hotter. No water flow will lead to hot spots.

rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

what are symptoms of hot spots?

so heres the good; I replaced the both belts, 1 goes around my alternator, over the water pump and on the bottom pulley (idle pulley? thats the FSM called it) now the other belt was found loose just hanging there, so i assumed that the one that goes around the air pump and that some bottom pulley; per fsm pg 46. figure 22.4a. i think that would be timing belt? please correct me if im wrong.

after i was done i put some more coolant, seeing how i lost some.
now the car starts up no problems, idles just like before, and temp gauge was back to normal. so im thinking everything is good.


the bad;
getting a random buzzard now. seems to go away when i start to slow down. when i start the car it doesn't buzz at all but after sitting for a while it will. i cant seem to narrow down when it does give the warning buzzard.

the ugly,

so i took the car out to work today and it seemed pretty good. power is there and what not however if i go over a freeway bump, dip or what ever uneven pavement in my way the car will loose power but just for the slightest moment until car is leveled again then its all good. lol. i did notice the volt gauge go all whacky when it did lose power too. exited the freeway on to smooth paved road, no problems. got to work and checked if i may have not tied the alt or air pump correctly, all seems well. car was idling fine.

any ideas?

matt87FC

iTrader: (12)

Check all your battery connections and grounds from the battery to make sure thay are good. If the battery was jostled a connection on the terminal (or somewhere near the battery) could be loose. I had a similar problem recently and after buying a new battery and that one going bad as well i found out a second wire in the positive terminal was loose, not letting the battery charge. But the car cutting off momentarily would hint (to me anyways) that maybe the negative terminal or a ground got disrupted when this all first happened. And when you hit a bump it moves those wires/terminals a bit.

Basically, check all connections to the battery and altenator. Might be a cause, might not. Lol

rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

yea i thought it could be something in that relation. ill have to check when i get outta work, in the dark i hope i can make it home.

Syritis

iTrader: (2)

the buzzer is the result of and air bubble trapped at the top of your rad.
theirs a plastic screw at in the inlet pipe on the rad. this screw needs to be out when topping up the coolant. while the coolant spills from this hole put the screw in then fill up normally.

lunardeathgod

Hey were in the same boat

my belts went out today as well

rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

yea i figured that much, i was just a lil worried cuz when that happens doesn't the coolant warning light come on too?

yea i thought so but i went and triple checked my connectors and the followed the cables from the battery. couldnt see anything wrong.


and brighter note. the buzzard went away and it no longer looses power when i go over any bumps..

i did replace the battery tie downs, those verticle rods on the side, the ones i bought are a little taller than my old ones and i think they touch the underside of my hood, but i dont think that would cause a short.

Cratecruncher

If they are too tall shorten them with a hack saw using the original as a guide. Smooth the sawed ends with a file until the nuts thread onto them smoothly. Regarding the overheat - Sounds like you got lucky. No engine rebuild this time. Never overheat a rotary - EVER!!!