2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

cleaning up the TB

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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 03:37 AM
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cleaning up the TB

I was thinking about porting my TB and whatnot, but after reading a bit and seeing that it would yield little to no results (except that I would probably screw the whole thing up), I decided against it. Now I just want to clean up the throttle body a bit.

I went to fc3spro.com to check their TB how-to, but I have to say the TII is much different than n/a. I also took a look at the FSM to see what is what on there, but I didnt really see anything in depth on the TB I guess. So I will include a picture of what I think is ok to remove...



The one in yellow I'm thinking is the fast idle cam? Anyhow it's not hooked up anyhow so I figured I would just take that off, it's ok yeah?
The one thats in the blue circle, not really sure if it does anything for my car anymore. I have all emissions deleted, and am also removing the second set of butterfly cams or whatever you'd like to call them. Thanks for the help.
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 06:48 AM
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The item circled in yellow is actually two components.
The main part is the thermowax-which you'll want to keep- and the part at the top with two vacuum nipples is the thermovalve, which you can unscrew and remove. All it does is provide temperature controlled vacuum to the small dashpot (which is on the other side of the throttle body) that dampens the secondary throttle plates, which you are removing.
Cap off the hole with a 3/8" NPT plug.
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 07:43 AM
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so the thermowax is paired with those unused coolant lines huh?
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 08:05 AM
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there is a good write up on the rotaryresurrection site.
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 09:30 AM
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You'll also want to keep the dashpot circled in green. That keep the primary throttle plate from slamming shut. I guess you could remove it but there is absolutely no benefit in doing so. When i bought my car someone had screwed it all the way out and I would shoot flames when changing gears.
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 09:37 AM
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the dashpot is very useful for keeping your car from stalling on decel, once you get it set correctly.

The fast idle cam needs the rear coolant hose, the one that has a 90 degree shape. You have to get that from Mazda. Without the hose, your throttle plates will stick open in the fast idle position. The coolant hose is admittedly annoying, but IMO it's worth keeping because then you don't have to keep your foot on the gas when the car is cold. I like to simplify the coolant hoses by running the top TB coolant hose directly to the water pump housing. The BAC valve, should you choose to keep it, does not need coolant hoses really, as the hose's primary purpose is to keep the BAC from sticking in very cold temperatures.

I have the 3 nipples (two on thermovalve, one on actuator) capped and the butterflies still there. But you can remove them if you want to.
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by clokker
The item circled in yellow is actually two components.
The main part is the thermowax-which you'll want to keep- and the part at the top with two vacuum nipples is the thermovalve, which you can unscrew and remove. All it does is provide temperature controlled vacuum to the small dashpot (which is on the other side of the throttle body) that dampens the secondary throttle plates, which you are removing.
Cap off the hole with a 3/8" NPT plug.
Yes, keep the thermowax. Also the the vacuum ports for the secoundary throttle valve is a bpt not a npt.
Thanks Robert
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 87 t-66
there is a good write up on the rotaryresurrection site.
I heard this as well, but I looked in the tech section on their site and didnt see any topics about the throttle body
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 03:47 PM
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The info on the tb is at the bottom of his emissions removal page.
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 06:57 PM
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porting the TB does have advantages when done correctly. I cant remember, but i think it was BDC that did a back to back dyno on one. the car only gained about 10-20 HP but had somehting like 100HP 1k rpms earlier. now thats something!

this is from memory. so i m ight be messing the numbers up a little...

i always port my TB's, and always notice a difference...
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 10:48 PM
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Yep BDC has pics of side-by-side comparisons of 13b, 20b and 13b-rew polished TBs. He does a knife-edge contour of each bore which is quite impressive.
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by scrip7
Yep BDC has pics of side-by-side comparisons of 13b, 20b and 13b-rew polished TBs. He does a knife-edge contour of each bore which is quite impressive.
Thanks for the compliment, Scrip! The job I do is about reducing pumping losses through the body from its inlet by way of removing/reducing four pressure drop points. The idea is to keep velocity up as high as possible. The end results are much crisper throttle, better mid-range, way wider torque curve on a turbocharged setup (boost threshold is much more aggressive), and slightly higher peak power.

Nick, the thermowax on the side is the guy that takes those two water lines. You can remove it and either plug or loop that water line with no ill effects. If you do, the side of the shaft for the 4th and 5th butterflies will be exposed.

Arghx is right on the function of the dashpots. I used to remove them but I normally keep one now.

B
Attached Thumbnails cleaning up the TB-beforeafter2.jpg  
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 12:56 AM
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That picture is why I decided not to port it. Mine would not look anything like that, I'm sure I would massacre it.
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