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Cheating The SMOG TEST! made simple.

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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 02:10 PM
  #26  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by rotarygod
If the air pipe to your cat was broken when you failed the test, it is the reason you failed. You must have a cat and an air pump to pass.
on a stock car that pipe has NOTHING to do with emissions, in an emissions test.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 02:13 PM
  #27  
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From: And the horse he rode in on...
The best trick to pass emissions is to fix your car...

Fix your car-Pass the test.

Originally Posted by jackhild59

Step 1. Fix your car, make it run right and it will pass smog.
Step 2. If it doesn't pass, see step 1.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...67#post4796567
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 02:15 PM
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From: And the horse he rode in on...
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
on a stock car that pipe has NOTHING to do with emissions, in an emissions test.
Ok, I''ll bite. What does it do?
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 02:17 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by jackhild59
Ok, I''ll bite. What does it do?
it pumps air onto the cat to heat it up and aid in catalyst function. i'm not sure why he believes it doesn't affect emissions. also without one the cat will become fouled and eventually deteriorate.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 05:19 PM
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From: And the horse he rode in on...
Originally Posted by Karack
it pumps air onto the cat to heat it up and aid in catalyst function. i'm not sure why he believes it doesn't affect emissions. also without one the cat will become fouled and eventually deteriorate.
I knew what it does. It carries air from the ACV to the Cat providing additional Oxygen for oxidation reaction with the unburned HC's on the rear brick of the 3-way cat.

* I wanted to see his answer.*

Still do.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 07:38 PM
  #31  
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just wondering..since this works on cars that have emission equipment...im assuming it would work on cars that have all emissions removed right?? just wondering
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 08:40 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by alex91n/a
just wondering..since this works on cars that have emission equipment...im assuming it would work on cars that have all emissions removed right?? just wondering
you would never be able to dilute the fuel enough for it to run properly and still pass emissions without a catalytic converter.
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 02:15 AM
  #33  
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not hard to just bribe the guys....100 bucks and you pass where i go at least
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 02:36 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Karack
you would never be able to dilute the fuel enough for it to run properly and still pass emissions without a catalytic converter.
ok say you have a brand new cat you just removed all the emissions equipment under the hood. like air pump etc..
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 10:27 AM
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Could a moderator change the tile to "Passing" instead of "Cheating" please? I think that would clear things up a bit.
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 10:39 AM
  #36  
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Question

Originally Posted by magus2222
if your hc (hydrocarbon btw) is high, then start looking at fuel system pressure and if your tps is tuned properly.
your co (monoxide) is slighty high.
so, just looking at those 2 gases right there tell me that its running rich....just lean out the system a tiny bit.
your co was higher than my 7 ever was, mine passed with 160xxx original miles, aftermarket filter but all emissions systems present, my readings were as follows (and running 87octane)
hc- 13ppm
co- .04 (%)
i dont remember what the co2 and the o2 were, but nox were around 110 and passing was ~700.
anyways, looks like your engine is running a bit rich, should have just dialed back the tps a tiny bit and you would have been fine. also, did you make sure to check the secondary air system? might have been an issue

what was your nox?

Lloyd

p.s can someone either delete this thread or rename it?
My NOX was 231PPM at 15 MPH (Passing at 1161 and average at 399)and 186 at 25 MPH (Passing at 991 average at 332)

And by TPS do you mean Throttle position sensor? Ive been trying to get my car to run a bit more lean because I have always thought it smelled kinda rich even for a RX7, so ive been trying to figure out how to lean it out, but I didnt want to mess with any settings because I did so in the past and it totally killed it for a while till I dialed it back. (i accidentally messed with the Variable resistor messing up the idle mixture making it flood.)
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 12:13 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by jackhild59
Ok, I''ll bite. What does it do?
Originally Posted by Karack
it pumps air onto the cat to heat it up and aid in catalyst function. i'm not sure why he believes it doesn't affect emissions. also without one the cat will become fouled and eventually deteriorate.
if the car is functioning properly, from idle to about 2500-3000rpms, the air pump air is going into the EXHAUST PORTS.

the split air pipe is used for some cruising situations, and decel.

this is in the manual, BTW. EVERY 81-95 rotary engine works like this

an emissions test is run between 2500-2800rpms, the air pump air goes to the exhaust ports car passes.

the split air pipe does NOTHING during an emissions test, it can be removed/blocked off with NO EFFECT on the emissions numbers.
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 01:44 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
on a stock car that pipe has NOTHING to do with emissions, in an emissions test.
I guess if the air is only being diverted through that pipe at warmup then that would be true. However you still need to have a cat and an airpump to pass. The airpump just doesn't always send air through that pipe.
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 03:39 PM
  #39  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by rotarygod
I guess if the air is only being diverted through that pipe at warmup then that would be true. However you still need to have a cat and an airpump to pass. The airpump just doesn't always send air through that pipe.
it hardly ever sends it thru that pipe, MOST of the time the air is going into the exhaust ports.

port air!
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 06:47 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
if the car is functioning properly, from idle to about 2500-3000rpms, the air pump air is going into the EXHAUST PORTS.

the split air pipe is used for some cruising situations, and decel.

this is in the manual, BTW. EVERY 81-95 rotary engine works like this

an emissions test is run between 2500-2800rpms, the air pump air goes to the exhaust ports car passes.

the split air pipe does NOTHING during an emissions test, it can be removed/blocked off with NO EFFECT on the emissions numbers.
what are you talking about? you clearly have 0 experience with smogs.
an ASM (acceleration simulation mode) is run between 15mph and 25 mph, the rpm can vary between 1600 and 3200, depending on if he wants to put it into 3rd gear. most tests are run in 2nd gear, but alot run in 3rd gear lowering the rpms. the SAP does matter, because it must be present as part of the emissions system, if it is blocked off and the machine prompts the tech for emissions devices, and sees that it is not there, FAIL, for modification or tampering of emissions devices.
why dont you try your theory in californa (in an enhanced area county), block it off, then try to pass, 98% chance youll fail, depending on if the tech does his job, i know i would catch it. but im **** enough to actually look under the car for the cat, im not risking my $ and smog EA for being lazy

Lloyd
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 09:44 AM
  #41  
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ASM 25/25 tests are ran at 25 mph or 40 km/h at 25% load. Our manuals say to keep any 5 speed you can in 2nd gear for the test I found with a lot of cars they're at 2700-2900 RPM. But some Hondas and Mazdas cause they have such tall gear ratios for acceleration you gotta run um in 3rd because at 25 mph/40 km/h they're over 3000 rpm (which is the limit).

He is right about what he said a 2 speed idle test is ran between 2500-2800 though I think on my machine anything about like 2750 is over limit. My guess is his car has always been too low to run on the dyno or has a body kit or something of the sorts preventing it from being run on an above ground or in ground dyno. OR it has no safe place to strap it down.

Under these circumstances a car that is supposed to run an asm 25/25 a 2 speed idle test will suffice.

Also is California the only place they even inspect emissions equipment? Here we're taught to just ignore any tampering and put N/A for everything on the list.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 10:19 AM
  #42  
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The split air and port air work on non turbos as shown in the jpg attached.

The split air pipe and air going thru it have very little to do with the emissions tests. During the low speed test the airpump air goes to the exhaust ports and little to none to the split air pipe.

During the high speed test the rpms get over the 1500 rpm threshold and when that happens the 02 sensor goes into closed loop which in turn means the afr that WAS approx 13afr is now closer to the 14.7afr which in turn means the converter can convert more efficiently.

When the ACV is in RELIEF mode little if any air can make its way into the split air pipe 'cause there ain't no pressure to push it thru the split air pipe, the air pump air and its pressure is being dumped into the silencer in the right front fender.

Connect a hose to the split air pipe and run it into the cabin. Then go drive the car over a range of speeds. The amount of air when sent to the spit air pipe has never impressed me except to think of the word anemic.

Turbo ACV work similar to the jpg attached but not exactly. Similar is the key word.

IF one has a RTEK 2.1 he can monitor the switching and relief solenoids and the port air solenoids while driving. Just when you think you got it figured out the 120 seconds of driving steadily will undo what you thought you knew. See jpg for 120 seconds.

50*C is 122*F.

The two speed test in Tx is done at speeds similar to the ones shown in the attached jpg, although my memory tells me usually the high speed is usually close to 2300 rpm and not what is shown in the jpg attached.
Attached Thumbnails Cheating The SMOG TEST! made simple.-howstuffworks.jpg   Cheating The SMOG TEST! made simple.-emissions.jpg  
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 12:48 PM
  #43  
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Hmm I didn't know you guys do low and high speed. I guess its because our emissions are less strict we only do 25 mph.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 02:47 PM
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wow hailers, you never cease to amaze me. thats alot of useful info.
and yes, 15 mph at 50% load, 25 mph at 25% load. more stringent, more effective. the state loves their money

Lloyd
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 03:33 PM
  #45  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by magus2222
what are you talking about? you clearly have 0 experience with smogs.
an ASM (acceleration simulation mode) is run between 15mph and 25 mph, the rpm can vary between 1600 and 3200, depending on if he wants to put it into 3rd gear. most tests are run in 2nd gear, but alot run in 3rd gear lowering the rpms. the SAP does matter, because it must be present as part of the emissions system, if it is blocked off and the machine prompts the tech for emissions devices, and sees that it is not there, FAIL, for modification or tampering of emissions devices.
why dont you try your theory in californa (in an enhanced area county), block it off, then try to pass, 98% chance youll fail, depending on if the tech does his job, i know i would catch it. but im **** enough to actually look under the car for the cat, im not risking my $ and smog EA for being lazy

Lloyd
EVERY rx7 i've owned since 1993 has passed smog in california, i DO live in an enhanced area. i have owned more than 15 cars, and generally smog about 5 cars on the dyno a YEAR.

i have smogged a few cars with no split air pipe. its not theory i have done it. you are right it fails the visual, but it doesn't affect what comes out of the tailpipe during the test.

also the test is not run BETWEEN 15 and 25, its run AT 15 and AT 25 mph. try it with any rx7, 15mph in 2nd is almost the same rpm as 25rpm in 3rd, its usually around 2800 for both.

again i don't cheat the test, i just make sure the ACV is working like the FSM says it should, and everything passes really easily, especially the EFI cars.

if you were closer i'd actually be happy to show you

mike
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 01:29 AM
  #46  
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Thanks for the tipp my smog is comin up and i really dont fell like payin 2 bills for then to pass it for me
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 01:54 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Karack
relax guys, there is no law that sais you HAVE to run gasoline in your car. it may be a cheat but the smog ***** can't do anything about it.

fixing the problem is probably the best idea though, since obviously wasting gas or running on failing cat isn't a great idea anyways.
+1! rofl, or everyone could use my address in newmexico.. no emissions
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 02:38 AM
  #48  
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Anyone ever heard of people modifying there car to run on alternative fuel??? heard that some people with 240sx register there car as alernative fuel
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 10:59 AM
  #49  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by anderdick88
Anyone ever heard of people modifying there car to run on alternative fuel??? heard that some people with 240sx register there car as alernative fuel
you could do electric too, but i was under the impression that they checked. at least in CA
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 11:07 PM
  #50  
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this is better than my U/A thread haha

I never had a problem with a fc passing smog, just gotta keep up with the up keep of the FC

hurts my wallet but embarrasses my friends (good enough trade off for me)
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