Like a hot wire or something? Something that doesn't block the air flow like the original AFM does.

Is this doable? That, polished intake, FMIC and an okay air filter, and we are talking a little bit of gain. Okay exhaust too and we got some more.

This is just small things that are cheap to do, while waiting for money :P Well, looking for work :P

Main question repeated: Changing the original AFM to something smaller, hot wire or something, is this doable?

 

it's not doable because you would need an ECU that can actually control a hot wire type MAF. And if you're going to toss the ECU you're going to go with something that is speed density--especially since large turbos don't like MAF sensors at all because it's hard to get a good reading from them.

 

Piggy back an SAFC and run speed-density.

 

So it would be aftermarket 2000$ ECU to get this done? Well. Atleast I can get my intake polished :P

 

No, an SAFC can be had for the cheap used. Try $100 for a used SAFC and $200 worth of dyno tuning.

 

SAFC? Not so good on english acronyms :P

 

Apexi Super Air Fuel Controller (SAFC)

 

So, for example (mark the example, just a quick ebay) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/APEXI...fAudioQ5fVideo

Or anything like that?

 

btw, jj, since you say you know something about drivetrain. My car was a USDM N/A, but it is swapped with a euro TII, how can I find you if they changed the axels and diff? I wonder if I still got the N/A diff (from the vert, aka open diff )

 

How hard is it to connect? I know where to connect it (btw, where is the ECU? somewhere under the passenger side footrest?), but is the SAFC getting the signals INSTEAD of the ECU, or are both getting the signals, or are the SAFC altering them?

 

Jack up the rear of the car and spin one wheel. If the wheel on the opposite side starts spinning the opposite direction you have an open differential.

 

Will it lock that easy? What if I say that it might be a very worn down clutch type LSD?

 

Btw, how the heck can you polish the intake of the RX7? I mean inside polish? It is formed like a dead stranded whale :|

 

you can polish the inside of the manifold runners with a die grinder and sandpaper rolls. any cylinder head porting kit will have what you need. you can get an electric or air die grinder. I used 80 grit sandpaper rolls on my s5 intake manifolds. It's hard to get way up in there though.

an SAFC doesn't change the sensor, it just changes the sensor voltage that the ECU sees

 

http://www.splitsec.com/products/mafkits/MAFkits2.htm

it is $800 and thus not worth buying....

 

Well, I will atleast polish the outside of the manifold (maybe take the inside while I'm at it), get FMIC, change all vacuum hosing to red, all the rubber for the FMIC red, and proper steel-braided tubes/hoses whatever for fuel and brakes (last one can wait). What about water, any good idead for getting the engine compartment look sexy?

 

Easiest way is to see if they kept the stock N/A transmission. The TII transmission oil pan is ribbed. The N/A oil pan is smooth. Then most likely if the driveshaft looks like stock, nothing fancy and modified, you have a N/A or TII diff depending on your transmission.

Otherwise, if the driveshaft looks custom made, and you have a TII transmission, you may have an n/a diff and vice versa.

Then there is always the wheel spinning trick that jjwalker stated.

You can always measure the distance from the studs on the input side of the diff. The TII is wider than the N/A

 

What about the engine compartment sexyness thing? What can I do except the rubber connectors for the FMIC, vacuum hoses, steel braided fuel lines?

 

A strut tower bar, polish your intake manifolds or powder coat them, clean everything up, add a radiator panel for the front section of the car. Some users here have gone all out that you can literally eat off the engine if you wanted to, there are a few pictures floating around.

 

$5 degreaser and a toothbrush and go to town! A hella good detailing is the best way to make the engine compartment look great. It's also the cheapest, and most time consuming!

 

By the way, just to add....

If you want to clean your engine compartment, the right way without removing the engine, you are going to need tiny brushes, large brushes, and everything in between. I have been through this.

Also, I stated this in another thread...

DO NOT USE SODIUM HYDROXIDE BASED PRODUCT. I can't say this enough nor scream it enough. Aluminum and sodium hydroxide are bad mojo. Read your degreaser can/bottle labels and make sure you don't use degreaser containign sodium hydroxide. It is highly corrosive to aluminum and will make your rotor housings look like corroded battery terminals.

 

Brushes? Like type toothbrush or more like with steel"hairs"? I dunno. Why not grinding paper on like the manifold ie.?

 

If you're going to polish the aluminum, you would remove it and use sandpaper of different grits. Just to clean it, toothbrush and degreaser and a hell of a lot of elbow grease will do the best. You can also wire wheel some parts, but they don't look good up close.