Hey, i just changed my airpump and alt. belts. I also drained the coolant and filled with radiator flush stuff. now i put everything back together, started the car and it did the 3k rpm start up but then it died afterwards. it cranks and sounds like it will catch, but not quite. i cranked it and gave the pedal a little push and i could hold the pedal to keep it alive, but lots of white smoke and gas smell and the engine shook like crazy. it also sounded like it was misfiring. any help is much appreciated.

this is on an 86 N/A no modifications

 

maybe you broke a wire and have a short somewhere?

 

if i had a short it should blow some fuses... if i start it by giving it a little throttle, it just keeps smoking. the smoke smells strongly of gas. if i leave the key in the on position i can hear something coming from the intake manifold.. kind of sounds like fuel pressure or something. like a really quiet running hose. stays on with the egi fuse pulled too.

 

is there something i could've unplugged that could cause this? i looked for disconnected stuff. couldn't find much. 3 plugs near my airbox are not plugged in. i now some aren't supposed to be. the AFM is definetly plugged in.

 

was it ok for me to rotate the main pulley to aid in getting the new belts on? having a really hard time figuring this one out.

 

still haven't gotten this one figured out. anybody have some insight on this?

 

Maybe you nudged the distributor. Check the timing.

B

 

no distributor on the 2nd gen... can the CAS turn just like a distributor?

 

Yes it can, but you would reallly have knock it hard to move it's position, it is bolted down...Normally once set you should rarely have to move it.

 

Is this a car you just got?
Any symtoms before the belts & flush?

If only one rotor is flooded you can get symtoms like that, but they should go away after about a minute.

 

It stays ON with the EGI fuse out? If so, then you have a short...

Is it possible you got the plugs and/or TPS all wet with coolant? Would definitly cause problems.

 

I might've gotten some on the outside of the AFM, I don't think the TPS was in the splash zone when i took off the upper radiator hose. everything was dry when i tried to start it though. it was like 100 degrees out. yes i just got this car. it has overheating problems. but it drove very well other than the 3800 RPM hesitation. could the coolant have premanently ruined the tps or afm?

 

looking at the service manual in the troubleshoot hard start and rough idle section i see they want you to check the water thermo sensor, what does that have to do with idle? it looks like it's in a place some coolant could've gotten on. today i'm off to radio shack for a multimeter to check some sensors. hope i can figure out how it works... so many settings

 

try checking your vaccuum hoses...my car did the same thing when i had a vaccum leak. you may have knocked a hose loose...

john

 

It tells the ECU to feed extra fuel for cold start & warmup.
I think it triggers the 3000RPM fast warmup also.

Have you re-seated the AFM connector?

 

i tried taking the afm connector off and putting it back on. i don't really see how anything could've happened to that thing. it looks quite well protected and very hard to even budge with that little metal ring on it.

 

well, i finally got some time to check this out. got out my multimeter, checked the tps. it was good. cool. disassembled the airbox unbolted the afm. got my manual ready to start testing some resistances. and there is the problem, staring me in the face. the flapper door on the afm was stuck almost all the way open. not sure how it got like that, but i gave it a little flick and it went back to it's closed position. it's movement isn't very smooth, but it doesn't seem to want to get stuck again. w00t.

on to bigger and more complicated problems

 

Spray carb cleaner thru the afm with it off the car and work the door. It needs to open and close smoothly...