N/A hoods will never sell for $500. The vast majority of people who will pay for a CF hood will probably want something with an inverse scoop. But what do I know?

 

Any CF hood for a rex will sell

 

True, but why waste your money for a hood with no scoop???

I am not really for a T2 hood scoop either but its better than nothing!

The way i see it, if we are gonna have custom hoods made, why make them to look like a stock na hood? You guys who want no scoops should just buy a na aluminum hood for $100 and paint it black. Save your money.

 

LOL. I hope this time it works out and there are some CF hood made. I would buy any kind of hood w/ or w/o the hod scoop. Please whoever is getting this set up dont be swayed. Start a poll in necesary and what ever wins wins nuff said.

 

How do you guys make carbon fiber stuff?
I thought they had to be baked at really high temperature to harden.

jay Kim

 

Making Carbon fibre anything is pretty damn difficult...

first the molds have to be done, and most of the time the mold that gets made doens't work out as u like it to... so when u make the CF thing out of the mold u realize... crap! thats not suppose to happen/be there. and u go abd redo it...

so u go through a bunch of prototypes...

the cloth is pretty damn expensive too... It also depends on which type of fibres the weave is composed of i guess... and the resin is bad for u... its toxic... (i think most are) and thenu bake the damn thing for a long long time....

 

Yo,


Been there, tried that:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=35108

If I had a dollar for every carbon fiber hood thread, I'd be rich.

Best of luck though, you know I'd be interested.


KS
1989 GTUs "Red paint, white rims, carbon hood: JDM Pimp Daddy"

 

I don't have to have to get ten. If I so choose I can get just one made. Although I myself would rather have a T2 CF hood, I don't have a spare T2 hood lying around. So if anyone REALLY wants one, front your hood. I will get my money together and take the hood there. It's located in the SouthEast so when I take the trip to visit family I will stick around until I see some quality work done. I wont accept a cheap looking hood. I'm way too picky about my car for that. The question now is do you people have the grip that are interested? And like I said if you want a T2 hood, give up the hood for a couple of weeks.

 

I really hope this deal goes through, everyone has screwed it up so many times before. Anyone have a spare hood laying around?

 

SURE WHEN DO YOU HAVE TO HAVE THE MONEY BY

 

PLUS I KNOW WHERE TO GET TWO HOODS right now they are only for an N/A still looking for a TII. If you need it let me know

 

you dont have to bake CF to cure it! And its not that hard to work with, and no more hazardous than working with fiberglass. Making complex shapes and having them come out flawless is hard, but its not rocket science, and far less mysterious than you guys make it out to be. Buy a book on composites, or search the web.

 

LETS JUST GET ONE MADE DAMN IT!!!!!!!!!

 

Or they can keep on without knowing what it really involves, and pay us(if you sell any cf stuff) to make stuff for them

 

It seems there is a little bit of interest in this. I will give everyone a little time to collect up the money or just to even think about it. And since I can't get a picture of an actual hood before they're even made, I will get some pictures of previous work if that will help. Any more questions.
P.S. I forgot to ask about what type of CF and how much so b patient.

 

Mazdasped, your funny! I do sell some small stuff from CF at my shop, also the colorful Carbon/Kevlar is a popular choice. Dont worry your secret is safe with me!

 

Structural carbon fiber products are made w/ pressure/vacuum and heat cured to give them their strength by eliminating voids and enabling use of thermoset polymers in compression presses or autoclaves, right? They can be capable of very high heats depending on the material the fibers are embedded in, these materials are expanding beyond "plastics" as people experiment in melting aluminum into the fibers, etc.
What you guys are talking about is just fiberglass using CF mat, a far cry from the strenght of the real thing. Just looks like real CF- you know the term being thrown around for stuff like this! Am I wrong???

 

Youre wrong. Vacuum bagging anything will make any composites stronger, but is far from necessary for structural pieces. You can easily make a hand layed piece as strong as or stronger than a vacuum bagged piece, but the vacuum bagged one will be lighter.

The problem with heat isnt the cloth. CF cloth can easily withstand 2000 degrees before deformation of ANY kind. But the resins I use start to deform at about 150 degrees. Youc an get resins that handle much more heat, but theyre expensive and hard to tinf, as well as harder to work with.

And it is very real. I have a 4" square with 1 layer of cf on each side over a 1/4" thick piece of foam. I cannot bend it with my hands, and it weighs an ounce at most.

 

MazdaSpeed7 You should make one of those headlight covers with the little scoop on it out of carbon fiber,people might like those,even both sides.

BJ White

 

are we going to make hoods??????? I want a hood like the knight sports hood or border vent hood but I need differnt specs for the hole as my hood will be for a 20B

let me know!!!!!

 

So by hand laying it w/ room temp cure resin it will be heavier and will deform at 150 deg, but is not inferior to aerospace grade CF? and is superior to fiberglass?
You say the industry methods of making CF can be duplicated w/ skilled handlaying and regular resin, but you mention the weight would be more-yes, thats part of my point. The "resin" weighs more than the CF weave and all the structural strength is mainly in the weave, so all these industry methods concentrate on making sure the weave is 100% saturated leaving no trapped air, but there is no extra "resin" and use lots of weave (= to lots of $$) since its the strength. The other part of my point is that the industry favors thermoset plastic "resin" not only because it can cure fast w/ heat, but also in its heat cure the the molecules become "crosslinked" so that they cannot revert back to liquid state w/ heat and so are durable high temp materials.
Its like you are saying cast alum rims are as good as forged alum race rims because they can be just as strong, just a bit heavier. Slight differences in materials and advances in tecniques make a huge difference- Japanese have used catylized tree sap lacquer resin and silk cloth weave for over a thousand years in structural items like composite lamellar armor (and you know their traditional craftsmanship quality is beyond legendary), but if you made the same armor out of modern aerospace CF it would be lighter and stronger.

 

For $400 to $500 I'm in...NA style, doesn't matter to me if I have to use pins or not. I'm completely maxed on NA mods so before I have my turbo setup built I'm after everything as light as possible.

Let me know @ jrotaryb@hotmail.com and contact Z-1 Performance for discounts on ANY part imaginable for all imports.

Jon
-'88 SE-
'91 Nose & Tails, Mazdaspeed Lip Spoiler, R-magic Side Skirts ,Jap Spec FTP, D-speed Clear signals, Apexi Dual Dunk, 2.5 inch cat, K&N W/ 91-AFM, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch W/ Racing Beat Aluminum Flywheel, no air pump, TB mod, Unorthodox Pulley, Turbo II sway bars, Energy Susp. urethane bushings, KYB w/ Ground Control coilovers w/ Eibach 2.5 inch race springs, Dual compund pads, Greddy Strut brace, 17X7 ADR stage II's w/ 215/45/WR17 Front, 235/45/WR17 Rear - Sumitomo HTRZ II's-
*Coming soon Corbeau Forza seats
*Cadmium slotted rotors w/ stainless lines & hawk pads