ceramic seals...
07-30-02, 01:04 AM
#1
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ceramic seals...
do they work good and for what uses and stuff, i am looking to get an RX7 TII, loved them since the day i saw one when i was like 12 and now i finally got the money to get one, and i wanna make it sweet, already looking at body kits and such, and was wondering if i need to get ceramic seals if i am gonna do stuff to the engine
07-30-02, 07:41 AM
#2
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they are major $$$$, but from what i hear they are worth every penny.
1000 bucks or so from mazdaperformance.com for 6 seals.... which is for 1 rotor... u will need 2000 bucks for the 12 seals... assuming u want the 2 peice version
1000 bucks or so from mazdaperformance.com for 6 seals.... which is for 1 rotor... u will need 2000 bucks for the 12 seals... assuming u want the 2 peice version
07-30-02, 08:26 AM
#3
WTB S5 N/A FC
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Can handle all kinds of boost and detonation, but will cost your first born child and one ******** to buy. Worth it? Hell no. Just get Hurley 2piece 3mm seals.
07-30-02, 10:59 AM
#4
knowledge junkie
From what I've heard:
Ceramic - high end dragster
Forged - better than OEM
OEM - good for most 12-18PSI applications
All will not take much detonation, so be sure those air/fuel ratios are right for the PSI of boost your making
Ceramic - high end dragster
Forged - better than OEM
OEM - good for most 12-18PSI applications
All will not take much detonation, so be sure those air/fuel ratios are right for the PSI of boost your making
07-30-02, 11:40 AM
#7
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Originally posted by rico05
Wanting to boost 35psi on the street? If not, no reason to get them.
Wanting to boost 35psi on the street? If not, no reason to get them.
then it will live up to my name......
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07-30-02, 08:24 PM
#11
I wish I was driving!
Originally posted by KraftDinner
I heard ceramic don't seal very well at all, making them not the best for street use.
I heard ceramic don't seal very well at all, making them not the best for street use.
07-30-02, 09:10 PM
#12
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Think ceramic rotary engine... no oil or coolant needed. over 25% lighter than the aluminum block. Ceramic rotors and for lightweight rotating mass... Only Eshaft and stationary gears would need to be metal. Taking it up to 15,000 RPMs and still making power. Not to mention 200k+ miles lifetime always boostin at 40+ PSI! 
*ok pinch me, what a glorious dream*
*ok pinch me, what a glorious dream
*
07-30-02, 09:13 PM
#13
I HATE sleepy eyes
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Originally posted by rico05
I would never want that kind of power in an FC. Too light for 600hp+. All I want is like 12-15psi and 350hp MAX.
I would never want that kind of power in an FC. Too light for 600hp+. All I want is like 12-15psi and 350hp MAX.
07-30-02, 10:02 PM
#14
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you will need new rotor housings and may need new rotors, and a very good engine builder as these seals take very careful installation. usually needs to have custom made springs also. these seals have the best compression and never wear, but they are not impervious to detonation. if any thing they are less tolerant, ceramic is very brittle. these are very trick but are overkill on most enigines and only needed for severe racing duty.