what do you guys know about ceramic apex seals? would that be a good thing to do since i plan on boosting my almost new t2 engine to 270hp?

how much would i be looking at for the seals?

 

too expensive and its overkill for your application

 

Im running them.....with a standalone, on a 300+ horsepower N/A project, well it won't be N/A afterwords, but yea. I don'tt hink you need them for 270hp, but if you have the money to waste, why the hell not...
Ianetti sell them, your looking at $2,000

 

Sounds like a fantastic idea to me! I hope you have the $1800 required for the seals. Just the seals. 6 seals. $1800. Lets say it again now class, $300 each times 6 required, equals $1800.

You dont need them. the only $1800 part you need to make 270 hp would be an engine. 270 is not serious enough to require ceramic seals. Now more like 600, then maybe.

 

http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=01-9103-0000

 

If he has moeny to throw away, by all means use them...but by the way you ask i must assume you did little research....use the search button i had a thread on this a ways back

 

If he has money to throw away, he wouldn't dick around with a second gen RX-7.

 

Off topic posts removed per complaints

 

There are FC's with regular 2mm seals making 600 HP out there. If you have the required fuel supply, you don't need mega strong million dollar apex seals.

-Joe

 

Steel seals work just fine.
Ceramics can be had for much less than $1800.
Contact Sven from NRS Motorsports. He has 1 and 2 peice seals in 2mm and 3mm and either of those in different grades. Depending on what you go with and I remember correctly, they range from $600-$900 a set last time I talked to him. Just as good as Iannetti's.

Ceramics are no guarantee against detonation. The degree to which they are more resistant to dt is a major debate but not many will question they do hold up better...but just how much and do the costs outweigh the benefits.

NRS seals take the cost factor out of the argument so it becomes a no-brainer to me.
Rotary Aviation has their 'detonation proof' seals and seemed to have worked the kinks out of them. Very inexpensive also. If it sounds to good to be true....

 

The only downside of ceramics is cost. They have superior wear characteristics, lower coef of drag (less friction), are lighter weight and much stronger. The 2 piece 2mm units seal nearly as well as 3 piece stockers at low rpm and seal just as well at high rpm and are capable of really high rpm. Mazda comp after an entire season of racing (787b, and IMSA cars) found "imeasurable wear on both the apex seals and the rotor housings". This in its self sold me on them. I figured I most likely wont ever have to buy another set of rotor housings or apex seals again if and when my motor will need another rebuild in the far future (hopefullly if nothing goes wrong). I also have a little more cusion if something does go wrong (like bad gas or ecu clitch at high boost). After running stock seals at high hp levels (400 or greater at the wheels) your stock or aftermarket steel seals will eventualy wear and so will your rotor houings do to the extra stresses of boost. So EXPECT to have to rebuild it after 50k if your lucky and replace the apex seals and rotor houings. This extra cost in itself paid for the ceramics (looking far down the road).


~Mike..............

 

the real advantage of ceramics is there anti wear properties, the seals and housings will last much longer,.. and they are much lighter so higher redlines can be reached,.. and you can tune for higher etg's without worrying. They are not really for detonation insurance.

 

that price.. 200$.. is that each seal?

 

$297.98 a seal, yup. but look at like I did, if your going to be into rotaries for a while, it will be the last set you have to buy and rotor houings as long as you dont do anythig drastic like run 83 oct with 20 lbs of boost or set your timming at 40 degree advanced..LOL

~Mike............

 

Okay, so we determined that the ceramics are overkill for N/A street applications, but what if I want to port the engine and run ~9500-10k rpm at the track? Will that promote the life of the trichoidal housing?