TheRotaryGF

iTrader: (3)

Hey Guys,
So I purchased a street ported S5 TII long block the other day to go into my swap and when I pulled the transmission, I noticed that there was a bit of oil in the bell housing. Looking into it further, it looked like the rear main seal so while I had it out, I decided to pull the flywheel and counterweight off and replace the seal. The engine was apparently rebuilt about 30,000 miles ago so the seal isn't that old.

Anyways, when I pulled off the rear counterweight, I realized that there were a few gouges where the seal rides. Do you guys think this gouge could have damaged the seal and caused the leak? If so, can it be repaired? If not, what are the chances of matching this counterweight with a new one? I heard somewhere that they have to be bought in sets because they are balanced together. Not sure if that is true though.

Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Jason

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jmartin/5530536429/" title="IMG_8024 by Nosaj_08, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5014/5530536429_e7bca5def3.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_8024" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jmartin/5530537055/" title="IMG_8109 by Nosaj_08, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5093/5530537055_2b942e8617.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_8109" /></a>

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Looks like those burrs could have damaged the seal. I would use emery paper and very gently remove the burrs without damaging or reshaping the undamaged surfaces adjacent.

Replace the seal and you should then be good to go.

Good Luck

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i wouldn't use that rear counterweight at all. either replace it or take it to a machine shop to have the dings welded and remachined. deburring it still won''t fix the issue, the pits will retain oil and won't allow the seal reverse sprial flow control lines in the seal to function properly.

yea, it sounds rather rediculous but look at at the inside of a seal sometime, and note that they have a directional arrow stamped on the face of just about every oil seal out there.

i've had oil seals not hold oil with much less damage.

the rear counterweight is not critical to match up with the front, the front hub and timing pulley are what you are thinking of. just use the correct series counterweight, ie S4 86-88 or S5 89-91 to correlate to the year of your engine and weight rotors.

TheRotaryGF

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the info Karack! Looks like I will just go ahead and purchase a new one. Id rather do it right the first time and not have to mess with it again.

Jason

TheRotaryGF

iTrader: (3)

So I noticed that the flywheel that I have on my motor is an ACT CW01. Looking into it further, it looks like the CW01 was used with the S4 models. I know I have an S5 motor, soooo, should I replace it with the same model counterweight or should I buy the CW02 which is for the S5?

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

How do you know it's an S5 motor? Look in the exhaust ports and see if you can make out machining lines in the tubs of the rotors(as opposed to cast finish)

2slow4stock

iTrader: (18)

Just because it is a s5 keg. Doesn't mean it has s4 rotors. He could of been running s4 rotors on s5 keg. I'd just get a replacement same counter weight, since the motor wouldn't of lasted 30k miles.

TheRotaryGF

iTrader: (3)

Hmmm, I will have to check that tonight. I know the housings are S5 due to some of the signs (knock sensor, ect), but Im not sure about the rotors. So if the tubs have a cast finish, this means they are S4? If the rotors are from an S4, what limitations will I have in the future? What is the purpose of not using S5 rotors?

TheRotaryGF

iTrader: (3)

Ok, so I pulled the turbo and exhaust manifold off and took some photos of the rotor tubs. It looks like a machined surface to me so would this make them S5? If so what should I do about the counterweight? Should I get the S5 rear instead of putting an S4 back on? What does this mean about the front counterweight? Do I now need to pull off the water housing to make sure that the shop that rebuilt the motor didn't use an S4 counterweight on the front?

It looks to me like someone could have just purchased the flywheel/clutch/counterweight package but may have gotten it for the S4 not realizing there was a difference. If I do change the rear counterweight over to an S5, does this mean that I need to change the clutch and flywheel too?

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jmartin/5543263933/" title="IMG_8131 by Nosaj_08, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5292/5543263933_a062d65710.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_8131" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jmartin/5543843108/" title="IMG_8130 by Nosaj_08, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5056/5543843108_f86f382e2d_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_8130" /></a>

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

They are indeed S5 rotors, I would probably pull off the front cover just to verify the correct CW was used, but it's up to you.

TheRotaryGF

iTrader: (3)

Ok, will do. Besides getting the gasket and reading over MazdaTrix's write up about the teflon o-ring, is there anything I need to know before doing so?

Jason

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

Yes, read about the thrust bearing assembly.

TheRotaryGF

iTrader: (3)

Ok, sounds good. Thanks for the help K-Tune!