2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Car won't stop running! Electrical-big suprise...

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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 06:01 PM
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From: Joplin, MO
Car won't stop running! Electrical-big suprise...

Well, I acquired a TII this week from my brother for next to nothing and I am in the process of turning her into the car she was meant to be. Right now I am cleaning and regrounding all the original grounds, as well as installing some 4 gauge extra grounds; however, I have 2 electrical issues outstanding: wipers (I know, tons of info on that), and the fact that every 3rd-4th time you turn the key to off, the car continues to run! I looked at the ignition switch and everything appears to be fine. I did not pop it completely open, but the contacts gave good physical resistance when turning it through the range and all the soldered joints looked good. I think this is more a relay issue, but I do not know which one...EGI? Interestingly, when the car is acting this way and I turn the key off, the blower motor does reduce its speed alittle-as if some electrical currnet is withdrawn, but the car does not shutoff. (This car runs so good, I can't get it to stop )Any thoughts or general direction would be greatly appreciated. I searched "ignition,relay,EGI,shut-off,etc..." and came up with nothing.

FWIW Car came with K&N, FCD, No main Cat with 3" duel Exhaust-not bad for 1000 bucks
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 06:06 PM
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From: St Joe MO
After I powdercoated my alternator, my engine would run on after I switched the ignition off. Turned out the alt grounds to the engine through it's body and the powdercoating insulated it from grounding. Cleaned off one ear of the alt and the problem went away.
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 06:22 PM
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From: Joplin, MO
Thanks for the swift reply. I just finished replacing the OEM NEG terminal cable, plus running another NEG terminal ground to strut tower ground (driverside), plus from strut tower to A/C thread on engine block. I was going to run one from the Alternator to chassis (passenger side), but ran out of day light after changing the oil. This will be the first thing I do in the morning! Any other suggestions?
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 07:03 PM
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From: Miami
remove the exiter(sp) wires... THe ones on the back of the alternator... IF they switch or touch the car will not turn off...
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 07:03 PM
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OK... I thought I had this problem fixed... I ran the additional ground to the alternator after liberally spraying it with electronic cleaner and sanded and cleaned the rear alternator connector (the 2 wires coming out of the back). This worked for about 2 days or about 10-12 keyon/off cycles, but yesterday the car did not shut off at all with the key! Damn...0-5... I spent today regrounding it, cleaning the male prongs and splicing in new female wire terminals-making dure they were correctly matched and still, the car is not shutting off with the key!!! Any toughts? The only thing different was the use of electronic spray cleaning solvent-perhaps something internally wrong with the alternator?

MARTIN-did you mean completely remove those wires, jsut curious as to what you were going for. The original clip does not allow you to switch them.
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 06:21 AM
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From: Joplin, MO
No new ideas? I think before I purchase a new alt, I'm gonna try to unplug those two wires from the rear and see what it does. I mean what's the worst that could happen..fires...explosion...non-stop barbra streidstand (SP?) music from the cd player?

(^That is why we have a Fuel Pulsation Dampner-ha!)
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 08:26 AM
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Digi7ech had this problem once. Turns out the alternator was feeding back. I believe he had to replace the Alternator.

Funny story though. I think it was the first time he had started the car, and it revved to like WAAAAY high, and he couldnt shut it off.
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 11:35 AM
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From: S.F. Bay Area, California 510
might want to try putting dielectric grease on all the electrical grounds you see, and maybe replace the various screws and bolts that hold them in place with new steel or better stainless steel.
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 11:40 AM
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From: Avondale, Arizona
Originally Posted by J-Rat
Digi7ech had this problem once. Turns out the alternator was feeding back. I believe he had to replace the Alternator.

Funny story though. I think it was the first time he had started the car, and it revved to like WAAAAY high, and he couldnt shut it off.
lol yeah.

Feedback through the alternator wires plus a tight throttle cable didn't exact go very good on a brand new first start rebuild

Turned out I had wired the back plug on the alternator backwards. This gave the ignition circuit or something constant power.

I doubt this is your problem though unless maybe the back plugs are VERY loose/broken since you say it's sporadic.
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 12:17 PM
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From: East Tennessee
well ive seen this problem when i worked at ford. does it run for like 5-10 more seconds or just keep running? if it only runs a little while after you need to put a relay on the electric fan...if it has one. if not then im not sure
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 01:12 PM
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From: Joplin, MO
no, not running for a little while, but just keeps running. You can tell some electrical current has been removed from the system, but the car just runs. I'll tray some more later tommorow and report back any progress...
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