loquin23

how you supposed to get at those wires with the alt on and running? lol i pulled it off just to test lol ....

HAILERS

If you have power on both of those small plug wires, then I doubt there is anything wrong with your cars wiring. As long as the wire in the top of the TEE, is black/white and the bottom is White/Black, that is all that is required. Well, the alternator has to be mounted and it gets ITS ground thru the case of the alternator mating with the engine thru the two bolts that hold it on the engine. It's doubtful that is the problem. Easy to prove. Meter pos lead on the battery pos post, the meter neg lead on the case of the alternator. Should show batt voltage and I'm sure it will, proving the alt is grounded.

You might disconnect the LARGE wire from the alternator and see if it has batt volgtage on it. Make sure you don't touch any metal with it. IF the batt is connected up, that wire should show batt voltage. Proving it's connected up to the engine bay fuse box right.

If you have a meter with a DIODE selection, you can check out the diode assy by putting the meter on diode, then neg lead to the large post on the alternator and the negative meter lead on the alt case. It should show approx 0.800 vdc. The large wire should be off the alternator when this is done.

Or you can do a voltage drop test. Engine idling. One meter lead on the battery positive post and the other on the large post on the alternator. The reading should be less than 0.2vdc. Then do a negative test. One lead on the battery neg post and the other on the alternator case. Reading should be less than 0.2vdc.

HAILERS

This a turbo car? Hard to do. I've a piece of PVC pipe to replace the intercooler when doing that. It's not worth your time to make one.

The only EASY way I know of, and I've never done it, is to pull the plug off the CPU on the left side of the passengers compartment. Find the ONLY White/Black wire, and probe it with the engine idling. SAme thing as doing it at the alternator small plug.

Sounds like the alternator is kaput. I never do it, and won't ever do it, but I understand from this forum that you can take that at to Pepboys or Autozone and they will test it for free.

Just make sure the wires are where they are supposed to be in the small connector. B/W on top of the *tee*and the W/B in the bottom. Both with batt voltgage with key ON and bottom one with 1-3vdc with engine idling and plug on alternator.

You know something? I just realized I've no idea why your Warning lights don't work. I think you said that. If you pull the CPU plug off and with a piece of wire, you jumper b/t the W/B and the B/Y, the key to ON, then the Warning Lights should come on.

loquin23

well i will try all that when i get off work tonight or in the morn... it isnot a turbo muy plug is kinda right on top of lines... its not that bad tho

loquin23

btw would any of this be related to the 3800 rpm issue that started the drive before it broke down.

HAILERS

It'd be easier, now that I think of it, to pull that CPU plug and check the W/B wire in the plug with a meter. The CPU does little in life, so pulling the plug off and running the engine will have no side effects. As long as you put the plug back on when your through. It controls brake light, turn signals etc.

And oops, I make a slight mistake. The METER fuse powers the rela in the CPU, not the ROOM fuse. But you have batt voltage on the W/B wire at the alternator so we know the METER fuse is good.

The CPU is the next box aft of the interior fuse box. The plug your looking for has the same number of sockets as shown in the jpg in the other post

HAILERS

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Opps. My mistake. My very BAD mistake. I meant to say, turn the key to ON (don't start the engine),and see if you have 1-3vdc on the White/Black wire. You have to leave the plug on and back probe that wire. Engine NOT running. The 1-3vdc is the excitation voltage the regulator makes for the Field of the alt to get it up and running.

But basically your alt is shot if you have power on the top wire in the small plug, and when the engine is running have no output from the alternator. One thing you might do with it running, is to take your meter and touch the large output post of the alternator to see what the voltage is there. If it's just 12v or 12.5vdc the things shot. It could just be the brushes in the regulator assy are worn out. A regulator with brushes cost b/t 45-50 bucks from AutoZone.

HAILERS

A small possibility. ECU at *funny* when the voltage gets low.

loquin23

ok hailers i think the alt is shot to ... sucks just bought that piece of crap a month ago. well at least a used one ..... so you thinkk the 3800 heisitation would be caused by low volts to the ecu?...... meaning with a new alt i have a good chance of getting rid of that and back to normal? would that have caused the violent bucking i had the other night?..............................lol normal yeah right? lol

loquin23

ok here we go
got a new alternator on there ...seems like im charging .... staying around 13.7 with lights and junk on 13.3 13.4 with stuff on.......... went for a short drive.... still hesitating at 3800 rpm then starts the violent bucking and it dies leaving me unrestartable and getting towed in by a damn honda.... really i dont know where to put this search this or anything since all this crap happened at once......
no crank from starter..... ran a wire from siolinoid
new battery goes bad.... replaced with a new return
recentlly bought alternator from forum member died... replaced with new
3800 rpm heistation....????????
violent undrivable bucking......????????
everything ran pretty damn good ....then the 3800 rpm heisitation... parked changed oil and plugs.....then all this
i usally can fix my car from this club just by searching and lurking the forum but i am freakin lost.....

loquin23

anybody want to give me a direction to look?

loquin23

hey guys i would be so thankful for some input???

HAILERS

If you gradually accelerate over 3800, say to 4500rpm, do you still have the jerking?

As you know the secondarys come online at 3800 if there is a load on the engine, but won't come on if you gently accelerate to that speed and upwards. If it does not jerk when gently accelerating....it's one problem. If it jerks at any type of acceleration over 3800 rpm, it's a different problem.

Are you sure your boost/pressure sensor is getting a vacuum? Like at idle pull it off the sensor and feel for a vacuum or not to prove that.

loquin23

no the jerking stops after i attempt to make it crawl over 3800 rpm...... then its just a jerk when i attempt to go .... after the jerking starts it is undrivable ....... you cant make it go to any degree....

loquin23

^ i ment the jerking starts once i reach/ attempt to take it over the 3800 rpm mark..... i can make it crawl to only about 5k or so .. but anything over 4k will bring on the jerking

HAILERS

I'm still confuse about when the jerking happens. I'd say your problem is a secondary injector problem as in a plug or wire to a secondary injector is loose???? Off????.

A person should be able to remove his secondary injector plugs and slowly drive up to ??? six grand or so. But if he is at say 2500rpm and slams the pedal down he will hit a wall of jerks at 3800 rpms.

You sure your getting vacuum at the boost/pressure sensor?

Even in the old days, prior to me fixing my 3800rpm hesitation, the jerk/hesitation would happen at 3800, but if I kept after it, the hesitaion was gone by ??4000rpm.

I recently had a bad hesitation at 3800 that would not go away. It was because of poor craftmanship i.e. a solder joint on the front secondary came apart and that secondary was not working, causing a jerking.

That was easy to figure out. Just went to the small plug on the ECU and key to ON, checked for batt voltage on all four injector wires. One wire had none. Broken wire at the injector pigtail was the reason. Works fine now.

loquin23

the jerking happens atfer i drive.... the car seems to idel fairly well then if i try to drive it once i reach 3800 rpm plus when i let the rpm go down or come to a stop after that the jerking starts..... so basically once i hit 3800 rpm after that if it goes under 2000k the violent bucking starts and the car is undrivable and bucks tell it dies.......
im pretty sure i need a new tps... or adjust this one ... not sure but could that be the source....
as far as the boost sensor having vacum ? im going to go check if the car is interested in starting for me..... just had her running about 30 min ago so will see ....lol

loquin23

plentty of vac at the boost gauge

loquin23

ok my tps has just radical readings and the car runs better and starts easier with it just unplugged..... i dont quite get testing it or setting it but if i get insne numbers im probally going to need to replace it rather then set it......
when i say insane like were i am supposed to test it at idle and get 1 i get 18 12 back to 18 to 1 to 6 etc etc wierd...lol

loquin23

ok i think i did above test wrong and i tried with car running..... i adjusted accordingly to write up on fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TPS/tps.html that i found on another post and got it to 1.01 on idle and 5.05 on wot.... that sound right?

loquin23

after adjusting the tps the thing is running well no hesitation or bucking at all when i come to a stop it will want to die. usally i can prevent it with a lil gas but if i dont or it dies then its flooded...
when its running it seems t do real well once in a while it will want to pulse but that will usally go away with a light touch to the gas