Car will only hold idle between 1100-1500 rpm
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,630
Likes: 3
From: NY, MA, MI, OR, TX, and now LA or AZ!
Torquing things until you can't anymore isn't a wise way to go, as that's a very good way to break/strip things. A lot of it can be done by feel, but that sounds considerably heavy. It's unlikely it attributed to your leak though unless the manifold got off to begin with. In any event, I would suggest fixing one problem at a time. Get that inlet duct taken care of and see how things are, especially if it didn't have as significant an impact as the LIM spraying did.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,706
Likes: 4
From: Dinwiddie, Va
I messed with all the TB settings including tps and it seemed like it was idling way smoother when the engine was hot.
could the tips be the entire problem or the majority of it?
I have no.experience setting the tps so I don't want to take a chance at frying my ecu if I do something wrong.
I know my friend once adjusted his using a test light but I don't remember the exact details of how he did it.
Rotary > Pistons
could the tips be the entire problem or the majority of it?
I have no.experience setting the tps so I don't want to take a chance at frying my ecu if I do something wrong.
I know my friend once adjusted his using a test light but I don't remember the exact details of how he did it.
Rotary > Pistons
I messed with all the TB settings including tps and it seemed like it was idling way smoother when the engine was hot.
could the tips be the entire problem or the majority of it?
I have no.experience setting the tps so I don't want to take a chance at frying my ecu if I do something wrong.
I know my friend once adjusted his using a test light but I don't remember the exact details of how he did it.
Rotary > Pistons
could the tips be the entire problem or the majority of it?
I have no.experience setting the tps so I don't want to take a chance at frying my ecu if I do something wrong.
I know my friend once adjusted his using a test light but I don't remember the exact details of how he did it.
Rotary > Pistons
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,706
Likes: 4
From: Dinwiddie, Va
You would make the twin LED light setup and place the two wires which are connected to each other in the slot of the three prong check connector that is B/W (powered w/key to on) and then place each of the other single wires in each of the other two slots in the check connector. W/key to on and engine as hot as it can get (30 minute drive always does this) you want only one of the two lights to turn on. If both are on or off you turn the TPS adjustment screw until only one light turns on. Some don't use this method because if you use the wrong type of lights it can damage the ECU but the LED lights at Radio Shack are the type which should be safe for this approach.
http://2ndgenrx7.freeservers.com/error%20codes.html#LED Circuit Figure
http://2ndgenrx7.freeservers.com/error%20codes.html#LED Circuit Figure
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,706
Likes: 4
From: Dinwiddie, Va
I cant drive my car its not ready for that.
One of my friends said I could set it with a multi meter , ugh I hate electronics I'm always worried about messing something up.
I know Banzai racing makes the tester but I'm sure I could make it myself for much less than what they charge, and yea I'm worried about damaging the ecu.
Rotary > Pistons
One of my friends said I could set it with a multi meter , ugh I hate electronics I'm always worried about messing something up.
I know Banzai racing makes the tester but I'm sure I could make it myself for much less than what they charge, and yea I'm worried about damaging the ecu.
Rotary > Pistons
All you need to do is use the multimeter to set the TPS and it takes all but a minute to do. W/the engine as hot as it can get and w/key to on you measure the voltage of the Green/Red wire of the TPS and it should read 1 volt and if not you use the TPS adjustment screw to bring it to that value. W/the meter set to DCv you backstab the G/R wire at the back of the TPS plug where it mates w/the Emission harness w/the Red meter lead and make sure it is snug up against the G/R wire and then place the Black meter lead to your battery's negative terminal and the meter will tell you what the voltage reading is. This is as simple as pie to do. Also, tell us what the initial reading is before you went ahead and adjusted it if it needed to be adjusted.
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,630
Likes: 3
From: NY, MA, MI, OR, TX, and now LA or AZ!
Due to the high number of things that have been played with along the way, getting the TPS set correctly could be difficult. Some things that really should happen:
Fix the EGR vacuum leak that was found, even if the car will idle now it's still a good idea to fix it.
Remove the tension on the throttle cable (BDC mentioned this on FB). Use the throttle stop screws and the idle bleed screws to get the idle to around 700rpm with no load.
Adjust the TPS to 1 volt with the car @ or near 800rpm (you should probably ground the initial set connector for this)
Put some load on the engine and get the RPM's to drop and see if it goes back to normal, then unplug your BAC valve and see what happens. If there's no change, you'll want to figure out what's up with the BAC.
Fix the EGR vacuum leak that was found, even if the car will idle now it's still a good idea to fix it.
Remove the tension on the throttle cable (BDC mentioned this on FB). Use the throttle stop screws and the idle bleed screws to get the idle to around 700rpm with no load.
Adjust the TPS to 1 volt with the car @ or near 800rpm (you should probably ground the initial set connector for this)
Put some load on the engine and get the RPM's to drop and see if it goes back to normal, then unplug your BAC valve and see what happens. If there's no change, you'll want to figure out what's up with the BAC.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,706
Likes: 4
From: Dinwiddie, Va
i might as well just remove the bac, I have the block off plate.
I also removed.the valve on back near the firewall on uim and put it back on because I didn't realize it had holes behind it, didn't use rtv seemed like.it would hold a seal without.
the tps setting is prolly easy for most but ill have a hard time, I'm always thinking the worst and dont wanna mess something up but I know it needs to be done.
I learn alot easier using visual and reading , so this is tough for me, alot to take in.
I.can redo.the.egr plate while everything is together and use ultra black rtv on.it
Rotary > Pistons
edit- didn't mean to post twice
I also removed.the valve on back near the firewall on uim and put it back on because I didn't realize it had holes behind it, didn't use rtv seemed like.it would hold a seal without.
the tps setting is prolly easy for most but ill have a hard time, I'm always thinking the worst and dont wanna mess something up but I know it needs to be done.
I learn alot easier using visual and reading , so this is tough for me, alot to take in.
I.can redo.the.egr plate while everything is together and use ultra black rtv on.it
Rotary > Pistons
edit- didn't mean to post twice
DO NOT REMOVE THE BAC! You will screw up the idling ability of the engine and you will compound your problems as opposed to solving them. As far as setting the TPS via the voltage method it is a simplistic procedure and I cannot underscore this other than saying if you do not do this I will personally take your car from you.
Why don't you have it hooked up? It is there to create a stable idle w/load placed on the car. W/o it you will suffer from a driveability standpoint.
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,630
Likes: 3
From: NY, MA, MI, OR, TX, and now LA or AZ!
You hook it up to the inlet duct. Basically anywhere that it can get metered air from. The BAC should never be removed from any car that will see street life.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,706
Likes: 4
From: Dinwiddie, Va
alright, ill hook it up next time im working on it but I don't have a hose close to that size on my tied unless.its the spot blocked for stock bov. my charge pipe to.the Turbo has a spot that is close to its size and might work
any help.with how I should be hooking up/venting/blocking off the two nippples on the oil fill tube?
vent bottom block top? vent top block bottom?
was also thinking hooking u vacuum to it and putting catch can between
Rotary > Pistons
any help.with how I should be hooking up/venting/blocking off the two nippples on the oil fill tube?
vent bottom block top? vent top block bottom?
was also thinking hooking u vacuum to it and putting catch can between
Rotary > Pistons
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,706
Likes: 4
From: Dinwiddie, Va
should it have a filter in between(I wonder if.a catch can even.filters) , or is it ok for vacuum to pull some of the oil/stuff in the filler neck back through the intake
Rotary > Pistons
Rotary > Pistons
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