Not really much to say about it but the car just died... I went to do a burn out and popped the clutch at about 5.5 and then... dead won't start. I thought it might be the coils but they both work any ideas.

 

do you have fuel? do you have compression? are you POSITIVE you have spark? check those 3 things then come back here with the results.

 

You have to give us more info than that
Lol
Poped clutch ......... Then wat happened.
What's it doing wen you try to start
Is your batter connected??
No car just goes ( boink ) and is off
Ther has to b more you can tell us

 

Well I have been having problems with the tach bouncing due to a bad ground... That problem went away though, (So I thought).... There was another time that I posted about that, when I tried to do a burn out and I popped the clutch, as soon as I did the tach bounce and I guess fuel cut and I shot a big ball of air/flames out, sounded like a sniper rifle went off. I'm thinking that the same thing happen again (I'm not an expert). Is it possible to lean a N/A out and blow a seal? I did a emergency compression test on the spot by taking to plugs out and cranking. there where no skips. Fuel and spark testing today.

 

does the engine crank?

 

Yep turns over just fine :P

 

Does it catch at all when you are cranking it or does it just turn and do nothing? My initial thought is a bad ground that is causing bad fuel delivery. Let us know when the fuel delivery is tested and if you are getting spark at the spark plugs.

~Spike~

 

It just turns, I'll check fuel.

Thanks!

 

You need to be methodical about this. Don't just go checking **** at random. Start with the basics. Think of what an engine needs to run. Fuel, air, spark, compression. Pull the air filter out and push the flapper of the AFM. With the key on, you should hear the fuel pump run. This will only tell you if your fuel pump is running, nothing else. It doesn't mean you have fuel pressure, it doesn't mean your injectors are firing.

Get a cheap spark tester from a parts store and see if you're getting spark from the coils when cranking.

See if you have any obstructions in the intake pipe. I've seen people install an air filter, then tow the car to my shop after it wouldn't start. They didn't pull off the plastic bag it comes in.

See if you have any hoses disconnected at the intake pipe. A massive air leak after the AFM will cause it to not start.

You have to use a compression tester to check compression too, not just pull the plugs and listen for puff puff puff. I can make that noise with a flat board in the air. Doesn't mean it's making any compression.

 

let me hop in here for a second. I don't know the specifics of how the car ran day to day, but I was there when it broke down and spent hours trying to get it going. First off when the car initially died, we tried cranking but that didn't work out. Made sure the afm plug was connected as well as the CAS, and grabbed a can of starter fluid and sprayed while cranking. The car managed to start but barely, and I could have swore I heard a loud metallic sound but i'm not too sure. It died after about 2 secs. Tried it again with no luck. Pulled the trailing plugs out and egi fuse and cranked the car to check for even pulses which were there. Next the fuel pump was jumpered via the yellow connector and could be heard running from the rear. The kill switch was bypassed at this point. Tried deflooding a lot by pulling the fuse and going full throttle while cranking. Tried push starting several times with no luck, going forward and reverse. Next I told him to crank while I take the plug wire an inch from the coil. I saw no sparking from the leading or trailing coils. The coil was pulled and tested it on my car, and it worked with no problems. The other thing I could possibly think of switching out is the ecu... I am totally lost on this one. Also, the tach makes no movement at all when trying to crank.

So, in short

fuel is there...
spark i don't think so (but the coils work)

 

Does the Black/Yellow wire at the leading /trailing coil have voltage w/key to on. Is the EGI INJ fuse good?

 

we swapped egi fuses and my car cranked so I assumed its good. I didn't test any voltages. If it doesn't have voltage what could the issue be?

 

Could be Main relay related issues including a blown 15 amp Engine fuse in the interior fuse box. You should check for voltage on the B/Y wire at either coil w/key to on and see what you got. If you have no voltage then check the interior Engine fuse.

 

Harbor freight sells a logic probe. It's $15, and it's money well spent IMO. It works like a test light, but it's solid state, so it doesn't require any current flow from the circuit to illuminate the leds. Hook it up to a power and ground source, then touch it to anything. A red light means power, green means it's touching ground. It will pulse also when in the presence of a pulse signal. You can hook up a regular multimeter set to frequency to the CAS to see if it's putting out a signal. If it's working, then test voltage at the black/yellow wire at the leading coil. If it's there, then use the logic probe on the green/yellow wire at the leading coil to see if it's getting a signal there. If it's NOT, then it's probably the ECU.

 

Check it out! The 30amp Fuse closest to the power steering was blown.

I don't have my cover but I'm pretty sure I needed that to run the car I switched the 30amp from the headlight motors and started to car runs just fine now Hey thanks guys for the advice. and if some of you think you've wasted your time on this thread, don't be so hard on yourselves I'm pretty sure that the information you gave helped some spectators also.

 

Now I just have to figure out why the efan is not coming on ugh,

 

^^ Did you check the fan fuse?

 

Switch to a clutch fan and solve your problem Just kidding.

You're right though, this thread can come in handy for someone searching in the future.

 

Fixed it. I pulled the power wire out where the relay for the fan was just had to plug it back up. done and done, now I guess I have to drive the car around for a while to reset the ecu, when the fuse to IGN blew I think it went into some sort of trouble shoot mode and won't let the car rev past around 5.5, I will prolly fix itself :/

LOL I like these engines.

 

Since its an 88, I assume you're running s4 electronics?

 

Yep. is there something I should know?

 

It's not a self-learning computer. Not programmable. It won't fix itself over time.

 

Turn the key?

 

Whoops