Car studders around 4 psi under moderate throttle?
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Car studders around 4 psi under moderate throttle?
I have this problem, that I notice it doesent matter what gear im in, but if im at 2/3 or less throttle, and boost is climbing, that the car will studder around 4psi. If im about 75% or more throttle, I still hit it, but it goes by so fast that you dont even notice it. Any suggestions?
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What do you mean can I? I can go look if thats what you mean. Could it be my timing? I havent checked the condition of the plugs since I put the motor in. Could it be the wires? My friend seems to think so. He said its likely the wires could be bad, atleast with a piston engine. Should I get Mazda wires?
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If you get the trailings mixed up, that can cause hesitation and slight detonation, especially under the fuel injector crossover at 3,800RPM.
Try and see if you can get replacement NGK wires from your local auto parts store.  If not, you can get aftermarket wires like Magnecor for a few dollars more...
-Ted
Try and see if you can get replacement NGK wires from your local auto parts store.  If not, you can get aftermarket wires like Magnecor for a few dollars more...
-Ted
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Originally posted by RETed
If you get the trailings mixed up, that can cause hesitation and slight detonation, especially under the fuel injector crossover at 3,800RPM.
Try and see if you can get replacement NGK wires from your local auto parts store.  If not, you can get aftermarket wires like Magnecor for a few dollars more...
-Ted
If you get the trailings mixed up, that can cause hesitation and slight detonation, especially under the fuel injector crossover at 3,800RPM.
Try and see if you can get replacement NGK wires from your local auto parts store.  If not, you can get aftermarket wires like Magnecor for a few dollars more...
-Ted
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Ok, I just check the wires, and the trailings are fine. How do I check the timing? I hooked my gun up to the leading #1, and I didnt even see the mark, but the car was doing a crappy idle, around 1000 rpms, then it would die.
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Originally posted by TonyTurboII
I think the wires on there are stock. How about Bosch wires? I can get a set of those for like 30 bucks. I havent checked the wires yet, but I thought I read somewhere that the trailings fire at the same time. I also need to adjust my timing, I was fiddling with it before the car was running, but it should be off that much. Ill see if I can find some NGK wires.
I think the wires on there are stock. How about Bosch wires? I can get a set of those for like 30 bucks. I havent checked the wires yet, but I thought I read somewhere that the trailings fire at the same time. I also need to adjust my timing, I was fiddling with it before the car was running, but it should be off that much. Ill see if I can find some NGK wires.
2) It's the leadings that fire at the same time, not the trailings.
3) Um, you were fiddling with your timing???  Oh oh, that's not a good sign...
-Ted
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Do you know where the "zero" timing mark is?
Inductive timing guns sometimes have trouble picking up the signal through the spark plugs wires - move the inductive pick-up up and down the length of the spark plug wire until is fires.  Sometimes you get a better pick-up at the spark plugs wire boot at the spark plug end.
NOBODY should be messing around with the stock timing if you don't know what you're doing.  This is why I said "oh oh".  Even midly advance could cause top end detonation (i.e. hesitation)...
-Ted
Inductive timing guns sometimes have trouble picking up the signal through the spark plugs wires - move the inductive pick-up up and down the length of the spark plug wire until is fires.  Sometimes you get a better pick-up at the spark plugs wire boot at the spark plug end.
NOBODY should be messing around with the stock timing if you don't know what you're doing.  This is why I said "oh oh".  Even midly advance could cause top end detonation (i.e. hesitation)...
-Ted
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Are you talking about the notch on the crank? I know where that is. The gun was blinking, but I didnt see it at all, then again I had the clamp up by the coil. Should the timing be lined up no matter what the RPM's are? Also, I havent heard any detonation, but I havent really gotten into it. Ive only drivin it twice.
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Originally posted by TonyTurboII
Are you talking about the notch on the crank? I know where that is.
Are you talking about the notch on the crank? I know where that is.
The gun was blinking, but I didnt see it at all, then again I had the clamp up by the coil. Should the timing be lined up no matter what the RPM's are?
Also, I havent heard any detonation, but I havent really gotten into it. Ive only drivin it twice.
-Ted
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Ted, thank you for all your information. Can I assume Im supposed to line white notch up? Isnt the yellow/red for trailing coils. Im going to get some new wires, and hopefully I can get this straightened out. Could inaudible detonation fold a seal?
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Originally posted by TonyTurboII
Can I assume Im supposed to line white notch up?
Can I assume Im supposed to line white notch up?
Isnt the yellow/red for trailing coils.
Could inaudible detonation fold a seal?
-Ted
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That last post was a little confusing. There are only 2 timing marks on the flywheel, one for leading, one for trailing. The leading mark is Yellow. It can be checked using either leading plug lead (Coil in front, plugs on the bottom). The trailing mark is Red. It can be checked using the front coil of the pair of coils further back/ front upper plug lead. The leading timing needs to be checked and adjusted first. Assuming the plug wire hookup is fine, the trailing will be in spec (just a check). Good luck!
Irv, Keith's dad
Irv, Keith's dad
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Thanks guys. Ted, Im getting some Accel 300+ wires from the local Advance Auto Parts (I dont know if you have those, but theyre like AutoZone). The cool thing is theyre only 30 bucks.
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