Theres a rather large screatching coming from the engine at around 1500rpm. I tightened a dowel pin the other day..probably past the 30ftlbs that was supposed to be, would htat cause a point in the engine where its squeezing the rotor tips?

 

oh, its a fresh rebuild, today is the first day its started

 

You mean a tension bolt? I don't think that would cause the problem, but what in the world did you do that for? I'm assuming you recently rebuilt your ******. And how much past the 30 ft.lb. rating did you go?

 

I should have waited.
Could it be coming from the front cover? Thrust washer?

 

no, kevin recently rebuilt it and for some freak reason the tension bolt was leaking coolant, so i put a wrench on it and tightened it up to a good solid hand strength tightening....

is it normal for a large streetported rebuild to have an idle from ~1000-1200rpm fluctuating..?

also, my oil pressure gauge is topped out when the engine is running. I dont have more oil in the engine then needed, what would cause this....

also my water temp gauge isnt working.

 

Be honst, did you mod your intake or exhaust, what mods do you have, sounds like your flowing to much air for the engine to handel to me. Also check your vacc and after all that if theres still a problem come back.

 

i have full 3" intake, full 3" exhaust

 

Then you should talk to Kevin about it.
What?
Idle quality during the early break in has alot to do with port size & rotor housing condition. I did a M'trix street port on an engine with used housings and it had a lumpy 900rpm idle. It smoothed out after a few hundred miles.

 

i had the same problem and it turned out to be my ac pump was seized, probably not your problem but i though id say it anyways, lol

 

i fixed the squeeking and such..it was the altynator belt slipping. The squeeking also was the rubber on the intercooler bracket squeeking

but im still having the oil press gauge and water temp gauge dont work.

the water temp gauge just sits at the bottom. and the oil press gauge is either at 120psi when its plugged into the prong on the rear housing...or its at 0psi when i unplug it (it goes down slowely).

Idle didnt improve, and im worried becuase i dont want to fry my oil seals or overheat the engine becuase i dont know how hot its running and such.

is the water temp harness come off a 1 black/red wire?

i dont see where it plugs into on the drvr side of the engine.

also during a quick test drive around the circle, the car would bog insanely.
thanks for all your help

 

I thought the water temp sensor was on the bottom of the radiator. I would check the manual for the location and confirm the connection.
The oil pressure ground has a resistor in series. It connects on the back of the engine near the oil filter. If that resistor is gone, I think you'll get some funky readings.

 

i have the ground connected (its the one w/ the little black box on it correct?) its on top of the clutch slave cylinder bolted down.

 

That is a capacitor - to filter spark hits & alternator noise from the ECU & gages.
The primary ground to the starter must be perfect, or the firewall to bell housing ground tries to carry the alternator load. If the cheesy clip on the firewall ground isn't perfect, the ECU sensor grounds try to carry load, then sensor voltages float & the ECU goes nuts, then you go nuts.
All this can sneak up on you.
That's why most of us add a ground or two.