2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Car lost power

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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 12:26 PM
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Car lost power

So I have a pretty much stock 86 fc. Today I was accelerating to about 6000 and the car seemed to just die after i switched to the next gear. She stayed on long enough to get home but I had to keep popin the clutch. Once home I looked her over and I can't see any leaks or anything obviously wrong with her. She will start back up but I is so rough I just shut it back off. Any ideas on what to do next. Check compression? I'm so sad. thanks in advance for any help.
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 12:59 PM
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I just tried to start it and it just turns over with the hint of wanting to start. And I am not getting any error codes from the ecu.
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 01:03 PM
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Check compression.
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 01:05 PM
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Man I hate those words, Ill do that and report back.
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 12:06 AM
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Pull the lower spark plugs and the EGI fuse. Have someone else crank it over while you put your hand over each spark plug hole and feel for even puffs of air.

RIP lil 13B.
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 02:40 AM
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Idle rough and shakes a lot? Sounds similar to a lawnmower?

You bit the dust breh.
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 07:46 AM
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yea i think you may be right, Ill get that compression checker today. Also how much would I be looking at to rebuild, is 2-3 g's a good estimate? Can i still get a new one of these motors or are they all just rebuilt now?

Last edited by 86rxNa; Dec 20, 2011 at 07:52 AM.
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 08:04 AM
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You don't need a compression tester. Read my previous post.

$2k is a good guess but if you rebuild it yourself it will be cheaper. It all depends what is out of spec and damaged.
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 10:35 AM
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If you do not need rotors, irons or housings you can get a full rebuild kit for $1000.

https://atkinsrotary.com/store/catal...C-p-16226.html

Of course, there is always something else to buy.
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 11:55 AM
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should check the usual stuff first like air leaks, or disconnected plugs like the tps or water thermo sensor. I had both connectors came loose and car ran shitty.
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 01:50 PM
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So I tried to start the car this morning still would not start. I also did the compression test by placing my hands by the lower plug holes with luck. The whoosh of air rotated between both front and back rotors and seemed strong. So i am assuming all is well with the internals. I did mess with the tps a lil while ago but I dont remember that causing the car not to start. Although it did drive like that so Im looking there next. What else, the plugs were socked in gas and pretty dirty so Im going to clean them too.
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 02:13 PM
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Both front and rear plugs were soaked in gas?

De-flood it, and put in clean / new plugs and try again. It's possible one of your injectors could be stuck open. Also, What did the whooses sound like? It should be a pop, and then a whoosh for all three faces. Only pull one plug out of each housing to check at a time.
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 02:16 PM
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Time for a TII swap. you can get the full swap minus driveshaft and such for like 1800 and a hood for like 450
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 02:18 PM
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Three even whooshes per hole.
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Molotovman
Both front and rear plugs were soaked in gas?

De-flood it, and put in clean / new plugs and try again. It's possible one of your injectors could be stuck open. Also, What did the whooses sound like? It should be a pop, and then a whoosh for all three faces. Only pull one plug out of each housing to check at a time.
all but 1 plug was soaked in gas, the other plug was a lil wet but mostly dry. I ordered new plugs and I guess I should go back to retry the test with only 1 plug out at a time.
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 86rxNa
all but 1 plug was soaked in gas, the other plug was a lil wet but mostly dry. I ordered new plugs and I guess I should go back to retry the test with only 1 plug out at a time.
I say get a real compression tester and get actual numbers. When checking compression take out on the leading plugs(buttom ones) and disconnect the cas so the engine doesnt try to fire.
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by SpikeDerailed
I say get a real compression tester and get actual numbers. When checking compression take out on the leading plugs(buttom ones) and disconnect the cas so the engine doesnt try to fire.

Yep, and also, disconnecting the cas will stop the injectors from squirting fuel too. Remember to keep the throttle wide open when cranking.
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Old Dec 26, 2011 | 01:08 PM
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Well I still have not got a compression guage and my spark plugs still are not here. So I cleaned the old spark plugs and let em sit for 2 days, put them in and still won't start. It has a diff sound when turning over then when it was working. Its hard to describe but usually I can hear what I believe would be the injectors and now it just doesnt do it like normal. Got new rims for xmas and I can't even drive around with them yet...
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Old Dec 26, 2011 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 86rxNa
Well I still have not got a compression guage and my spark plugs still are not here. So I cleaned the old spark plugs and let em sit for 2 days, put them in and still won't start. It has a diff sound when turning over then when it was working. Its hard to describe but usually I can hear what I believe would be the injectors and now it just doesnt do it like normal. Got new rims for xmas and I can't even drive around with them yet...
With a good ear You can tell if you lost an Apex seal without a compression tester. when cranking the starter should sound even on the Compression strokes. If you lost compression the starter wont need to work as hard. it will get faster and slower, make sure no intake parts came loose. its just a thought. thats what i would look for. If it is the engine i built mine for 550 in my garage. Dont sweat it
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Old Dec 26, 2011 | 05:28 PM
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Air flow meter is plugged in right? Had a similar issue with mine and turned out the afm plug just barely came loose, I thought the car was flooded then thought I blew the engine, saw that the plug was a little crooked, plugged it back in and the car started right up.
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 03:31 PM
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Ok so I had time to buy a compression gauge and I am pretty sure it was hooked up right but I did not get **** for a reading. It was below 10 the whole time. I tried it on both leading plugs 1 at a time and didn't get a reading. So I put the plugs back in and tried to start the car and actually got it running. Just would not stay running if It dropped lower than 2000 rpms it would shake bad then stall. It also sounded like *** and I have had to unflood the car before and it would usually clear up after a min or so but it did not. How tight does the compression guage need to be handtight or do I need to crank her in with a wrench? And is there anything else I can do to save my 7. Also I have checked my connections that I have messed with like tps and afm and the seem to be as they should be.
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 07:25 PM
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I'll be the first to say it, find another engine or get a rebuild. You killed it.
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