so my fc will start in the cold no sweat. but like most fcs mine wont hot start (after short trips). so with that being said the previous owner of the car had a toggle switch installed from the egi comp in the fuse box, routed in the car. I dont know what this necessarily did but basically i used it while cranking the car to get it started. Is this switch just like a fuel cut switch? or rather same theory? or should i install the fuel cut switch at the fuel pump to help me deal with flooding issues that messes with my car. When i start the car the first time of the day i smell alot of fumes. is this normal for any fc? or is it because something is going extremely wrong with my car? I just want my car to start up everytime i ask it to. but until then its just been a weekend-one-time-drive type of thing. Im trying to get this thing back on the damn road so i need all of your guys help please. Im also having trouble with my tranny, whenever i shift it doesnt feel smooth. i have alot of trouble shifting it into second gear, i cant go smoothly down the wall, i have to make a sort of backwards C type movement in order for it to go into second. LOL DAMN i know this is alot so bear with me folks. This is just tip of the iceberg when it comes with things i need to do to my fc.

 

sounds like a normal fc to me haha

 

lol really? i thought it was only me

 

Nope, it's all of them. You'll figure out in time all the little issues we have. And yes, it's to cut off the fuel. You could install a switch right after the pump (I don't see why, unless you're building a track car and need to for inspection) Just every time it floods pull the fuse, and once it starts you put it right back in. Hope that's what you were asking, lol.

 

so the switch i have thats connected to the egi comp acts as a fuel cut switch? how do i use it when i turn the car off. do i leave it on or do i shut it off because then the car will stall.

 

You can't use that as a fuel cut only switch, as that will kill ignition too. So you would flip the switch off after the car failed to start, crank it for a bit, turn the switch on and start the car. You're deflooding the car, and the switch cuts the need to get out of the car and pull the egi fuse manually.


It really isn't normal for your car to do that, indicates either a tired engine, or bad injectors. Compression test the engine...


Edit: There were TSB's when FC's were new for the second gear shifting issue. Common problem on FC's. Make sure your fluid level is good in the transmission.

 

thanks nate much appreciated ill try to do a search on how to do a compression test

 

Mazda Dealership. Only reliable way to test all three sides of the rotor. They charge $75 out here.

 

Use a standard compression tester... Search in the FAQ's on how to compression test.

 

No, it's just the broken ones.
Leaky injectors and low compression aren't normal, they're faults that should be rectified, not accepted as "common" or inevitable.

I really don't get the schizophrenic attitude around here...the same people who think the rotary is the "soul" of the RX and get all upset over engine swaps are willing to accept poor starts and constant flooding as completely normal and expected, working out elaborate rituals and "mods" to bandaid what is basically poor maintenance.

Fix the damn car properly and get pissed when it doesn't manage basic automotive competency (like starting when hot), don't just shrug your shoulders and pretend that's the way it has to be.
It's not.