since i'm at the shop here's the part numbers for the aftermarket replacement injector clips for denso low impedence top feed injectors(as i said they can also work for later model '88 high impedence injectors also if you cut off the locating lug on the injectors with a sharp razor blade or dremel):

GP sorensen= 800-9213
BWD(Borg Warner)= 27427
Airtex= 1P1000

price usually ranges from $4-6 per clip, you'll need 4 obviously if that is the problem. you can reuse the old spring clip off the stock injector clips with the GP sorensen since it is basically an original replica of the mazda injector clips, the BWD and Airtex look more like the generic ones you find on ebay. all of them work just fine but the latter 2 are easier to unclip without breaking the connector housing, like the stock mazda ones(GP sorensen).

you can test the injectors manually by strapping the injectors to the rails and putting a the primaries(lower) over a bucket. remove the CAS by marking it's orientation on the front cover and remove the top cover with 2 screws, mark the pointer facing forward and where it points to a spot on the CAS housing or sensor with a sharpie and remove it. turn the key on and spin the CAS lower gear with your fingers while watching the injectors, it will tell you if there is any issues with the fuel system. reinstall the CAS by lining up all the marks you made during removal, be sure not to crank the engine over with the CAS out of the engine or you will have to retime it from scratch.

 

ever tried to remove a pair of crossed jumper cables. things get hot fast.

 

yea, that was an ignorant statement considering you can weld off 12 volts and it can also turn your car into a ball of flames in a matter of seconds if the positive cable arcs to ground. but speaking of the ignition/fuel circuit it's protected by the 30 amp EGI fuse.

never underestimate even a simple 12 volt system of an automobile or it will bite you in the ***. i've seen a few battery relocations without a circuit breaker, bad news...

 

yep, my first reaction was oh ****, yank them back off as fast as possible, my next reaction, weres the ice.

 

you are a poof if you think that a starter cable is hot,, working on hot turbos is HOT
and you are an idiot if you have messed up these cables

and you dragged that out your ****,, WTF does starter cables have to do with the OP's quiz about the injector 12v wire ?

thanks for your self important post about nothing relevant



the OP was worried about the 12v seen at the injectors
and my post is correct
it will not hurt him to hold the clip onto the wires for the multi or the globe

i have been working on cars extensively for 20 years , much of it custom electrical
--and never have i seen such a bunch of pansy attitude over a pissant 12V little wire

it is harmless ,, so is everything on the car besides maybe a little heat from the starter cables and a good zap from some HEI ignitions ( which are past 60 000 V )
which maybe dangerous if you have angina or a pacemaker


and before you want to argue with me,, i suggest you try it for yourself,, and realise i come from a class one zone one plant background
- a place where you make yourself very aware of all the hazards ,, dont you dare try and make me out as ignorant

 

She lives! Getting the connectors did the trick, so it was the connectors all along.Just a heads up for somebody who has this problem and need the connectors, the GP sorensen= 800-9213 will fit on our cars, because after alot of reseach and talking to autozone employees they said that if will not fit on the injectors. I made a gamble and it worked. Thanks to everyone who helped out and gave me advice, couldn't have done it without you rotor heads.

Good to finally be back on the highway!