ok here my story, just got my fuel injectors back from being cleaned, I installed them, hooked everything back up, tryed to start my car and nothing. I thought it was flooded so I deflooded for a while. start it up again it almost starts but doesn't. Next start up i held the gas pedal down and it started up but did it very rough and idled rough and almost die, only die when i put it in gear.

I dont know if the injectors are bad or if theres a va leak somewhere as i checked twice and seems to be fine. your advice is much appreciated

 

pushed in injector connector pin.


god, this should be in the sticky somewhere..

 

not sure i follow you?

 

pull your injector clips off and look inside the connectors to see where your bad connection is, the primary turbo injector clips as well as the water thermosensor have a tendency to break the locks and allow the wires to float in the plastic connector ends.

 

I had a vacuum leak on my car after getting the injectors cleaned. Same symptoms.

 

AFM unplugged.

 

If the old intake gaskets were reused, you'll have a vacuum leak that will keep the car from idling.

 

not sure about the afm plug but I'll check it, and as for the intake gasket i should get a new one just to be sure. When i did take it apart again to day I did see a vac hose broken, I replaced it and i'm gonna hope for the best and check the stuff listed above.

 

must be a huge vac leak if you car have trouble starting.

 

I have the same problem so I'll watch this.

 

Did you hook up the injectors to the appropriate Wires/connectors?
I did a swap,that Stumped me...Start up fine,,touch the gas and BLAH!
I mistakenly put the primary wiring to the Secondaries,and Vice Versa.
Let me tell ya,,I replaced Every Electrical component on that car,to find out I Screwed up the wiring.,
NOW I mark my Wires!

 

im pretty sure i connected it right as i believe the primary's connectors are to short to reach the secondary's. now I checked the connectors as Karack said and he may be on to something. on one of the primary connectors one of the pins is a "little" pushed in but it looks like it would make connection to the pins on the injectors. But another discovery will show when I looked at the wells where the injectors spray in to one was wet from gas and one was dry.

The dry one was the one with the connector pin that seemed to be pushed in, so maybe it is a bad connector. With that said would the connector be bad that its not giving power to the injector and would replacing it help? And would one injector failing cause the motor not to start? I know in some cases (with 4-6cyl piston motors) that it can start with one bad injector but idle bad, not used to rotors but learning. And just to let you know I checked for every possible way to see if there was any vac leaks, there was 2 broken hoses, I replaced them but still didn't fix the problem. So I'm done looking for vac leaks for now.

 

Well, on a rotary if 1 of the primaries isn't firing, that's half the engine. The secondaries don't do anything to start.

 

if you want to be sure the problem is the clips, hold and push on the wire loom instead of the plastic clip end to make sure the wires don't push back in while connecting to the injectors.

you can get replacement clips at most any auto parts store, they are generic replacements that will fit. you may have to cut the locating lug off the injectors if they are high impedence.

 

^^ well i did try pulling the pin out farther but doesn't seem like any good. It kinda looks like its been chipped or something. I tried to push on the loom of the wired but no movement, plus its not floaty (loose) just looks shorter than the other pin. And I highly doubt than i can find this connector in a parts store.

 

they may not have them in stock but i guarantee they can get them. replacements are made by many suppliers that fit denso top feed injectors with a center lug low impedence injector. you just have to find the guy at the store who know more than to just type your car into a computer and tell you you are SOL(most bigger auto parts stores are getting this way and it's sad, so i avoid them and go to the smaller guys for more detailed parts even if i have to pay more for real help).

 

but i guess theres no way to know if this will fix the problem till i get it huh?

 

you can use a voltage meter
with positive side of the meter touch the positive side of the clip.
negative side of the meter put on the other wire in the clip the (negative) side...
then get a friend to turn the car over. read the meter. then do it with the other injector clip and see if you get the same results. if you do it could be the injector. if you dont get the same results cry, because its a wiring problem.
it should tell you if your getting power or not. im pretty sure you can do this. im not positive but it seems logical. i know a voltage meter has help me a hell of a lot in the past.
now all thats left to do is see which ones positive. i would try it on someone elses car first. lol but please correct me if im wrong.

 

this,, have seen it myself,, and that car had been through professionals and several looms and ECU's

i found it within 30 secs of removing the UIM

things dont seem !!!!!!!!!!!
whats the bet if you lift out the secondary injectors one of them is also wet,, same side as the wet primary

 

^^ i could check ohms, not sure if its safe to do it that way but i get rubber gloves lol.

 

12v DC will not hurt you

 

Going along with what was previously said about correctly wiring the injectors: Depending if your engine harness has ever been re-routed its possible that you could have hooked both primaries up to the front rotor and the 2 secondaries to the rear rotor..

I accidentally did this once with a previously "modded" and re-loomed engine harness. It prevented the car from starting and running, it would get up to ~400rpm on the starter then die once you let the starter off.

just a thought

 

good luck man!.. ive had several problems and these kind people have always helped me

 

ugh this will be the forth time im taking it apart i will check everything tomorrow night, need this running by xmas, and Zerkster the motor was rebuilt 1200 miles so u could be right i just gotta check every little thing, thanx guys let me know if theres anything else you want to add on the list lol

 

If you don't have everything apart yet, try switching the two hoses going to the fuel rail.

Very common for people to switch these by mistake.

The hose coming from the fuel filter goes to the rail, then pulsation damper, primary injectors, sec. injectors, then pressure regulator (the one with the vacuum hose to it), then fuel return hose that goes back to the tank.

edit: thinking some more, I'm not sure if you even disconnected these hoses (since you don't have to), but I'll leave this up anyway.