Steves13b

iTrader: (9)

I searched before posting with no luck. I just picked up an 88 vert for pretty cheap. The ragtop motor is pretty slow so i was curious if i can disconnect the motor and raise and lower the top by hand?

And my driver door is for sure missing the window motor and i havent looked at the passenger one yet. I spoke briefly to a previous owner and from what i got out of it is that it needs a new motor but possibly all the guts for it too (the track and such) so my question is will a hardtop motor and possibly the guts work in my doors?

Thanks for any help!

Spirit-RE

iTrader: (25)

Yes, you can disconnect the motors, but the back part of the top will not stay up if you remove just the targa section.

Steves13b

iTrader: (9)

hope this is isnt a stupid question but what part is the targa part and why wont it stay up?

Spirit-RE

iTrader: (25)

Middle hard part. The complete top will go up and down fine without the motors. What I'm saying is the middle hard part(targa) cannot be removed where just the rear half of the top is up, and the targa is out.

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

The top motor moves slowly anyway. So not sure why you'd disconnect in the first place.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, the top doesn't exactly fly up, but it shouldn't take more than 15-20 seconds holding the switch.

You can't use a window regulator/motor setup from a coupe. They use a chain system to raise and lower the window, while the convertibles have a cable system.

You'll need to get an entire regulator assembly (motor, cables, track) from a convertible, so try the classifieds or ebay. The cables are wound into the top section of the motor, and it's spring loaded. In my experience, it's pretty much impossible to get it all back together without some binding of the cables. I tried to fix one in my car, but it never worked like it should. I ended up just getting a whole new assembly and bolting it in.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Buy a replacement if it is missing. The passenger door window regulator fails much more often than the drivers regulator. You can probably find a driver unit pretty easily, the passenger is much more rare, thus costs a little more $.

I have successfully rebuilt my passenger regulator using Teflon-coated bike brake cables. Twice, I did it once and it worked very well for a couple of years. The only problem was that I didn't get the cable lengths exactly right so the window couldn't go all the way down, there was about 3/4" sticking up out of the door when all the way down. My passengers complained that it hurt her arm (Wives, sheesh!)

There is a write-up or two on this forum, maybe there is one in the sticky. One of the write-ups gives the exact length for the cables. Find that one.

BTW, the thing that fails on those regulators is a nylon guide at the top of the unit. The cable slides over and around this nylon piece, up and down, up and down. Eventually it cuts the slide like a saw. Once the slide is cut in two, the cable binds and breaks.

I replaced the slide with a pulley block. I got that pulley from a *manual* RX7 window regulator. The manual regulator is set up very similarly to the Vert. Apparently the engineers put a pulley on the manual set up to reduce friction and make the manual system easy to crank.

Once I used the pulley system, the windows are very fast and smooth. I expect to never have problems again.

Good Luck and welcome to the world of RX7 Verts.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

jack- I was wondering about the guide, that is what went on my car a long time ago and it really bothered me that you could not buy just the guide. I also have a write up someone did about using the bicycle cables, but nothing on the guides.

OP- maybe the top will speed up once the car gets driven and the battery gets a good charge, one thing I have learned over the years with these cars is when they sit everything becomes cranky, pushing the buttons and using everything has gotten alot of things that did not work at first going again.