Can't Beleive It;s Flooding
#1
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Can't Beleive It;s Flooding
Hi,
I've been doing quite a few things to my car lately. I got my header, presilencer, dual pullies, acv and air pump off and the car felt great for a few days. Must of red lined it more in the last week than all last year.
Anyhow, just a few days ago, she hesitated to start. I was like It was the same symptoms with my old engine. I have a egi cut off switchI have to use almost every time to start it. It takes about 3 or 4 seconds to start compared to the original half second crack that I used to have. I have been doing lots of fiddling with it and also recleaned out my 5th and 6th ports as well.
I'm hoping leaky injectors or maybe I missed a vacumn if it's possible to cause this. I am so pissed too, cause with my last car which was a poorly rebuilt engine went for **** a few months after the same thing.
This engine only has 130000kms and I change the oil and all that good stuff. When I drive it and get it fird up it still runs good like the time when it wasn't flooding?
Any info greatly appreciated
I've been doing quite a few things to my car lately. I got my header, presilencer, dual pullies, acv and air pump off and the car felt great for a few days. Must of red lined it more in the last week than all last year.
Anyhow, just a few days ago, she hesitated to start. I was like It was the same symptoms with my old engine. I have a egi cut off switchI have to use almost every time to start it. It takes about 3 or 4 seconds to start compared to the original half second crack that I used to have. I have been doing lots of fiddling with it and also recleaned out my 5th and 6th ports as well.
I'm hoping leaky injectors or maybe I missed a vacumn if it's possible to cause this. I am so pissed too, cause with my last car which was a poorly rebuilt engine went for **** a few months after the same thing.
This engine only has 130000kms and I change the oil and all that good stuff. When I drive it and get it fird up it still runs good like the time when it wasn't flooding?
Any info greatly appreciated
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Another symptom is that, when I restart a mind or 2 after turning it off or even a half hour. It sounds like the starter has to work really hard for the first few cranks to loosen something up.
If it's an injector problem, how difficult is this and is there anything else I should do while I get deep in there besides take off the EGR valve?
If it's an injector problem, how difficult is this and is there anything else I should do while I get deep in there besides take off the EGR valve?
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If it helps, trash your car, i'll buy all of your performance parts lol... seriously though, i have the same problem in my GXL... it takes alot longer to start than it did before my rebuild. Perhaps your spark plugs are fubared. Maybe even one of the wires is sliced and it's grounding out. (happened in my intrepid, took me weeks to diagnose the problem) Try cleaning your fuel injectors, spark plugs, make sure all the electrical connections are good. Check all your grounds (specifically to the engine, since the starter WILL have trouble pulling if the ground is inadequate). Did you take anything off when you were putting on your new exhaust and whatnot? (other than the old cats ... you quite possibly left a vacuum line off, or something silly like that. Run some marvel mystery oil through that sucker.
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Does anyone know of all the stock ground wires and there locations. I'm getting some thoughts it culd be the one to the starter as it hesitates to start teh engine and then picj up afterward.
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Flooding caused by lack of backpressure at startup. Doesn't affect idle, only startup. The ECU usually compensates for the backpressure normally present at stock. With a free-flowing exhaust however, not enough air is in the chambers at startup.
Retard your timing by 10-20 degreese from stock. She'll fire up almost every time!
Retard your timing by 10-20 degreese from stock. She'll fire up almost every time!
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Can anyone else support blacksunshine's statement?
Has anyone else tried this? It makes sense doesn't it?
How do you "retard" your timing? Is this the same as advancing it? I haven't tried advancing it, how do you do this and is it safe?
Thanks
Has anyone else tried this? It makes sense doesn't it?
How do you "retard" your timing? Is this the same as advancing it? I haven't tried advancing it, how do you do this and is it safe?
Thanks
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I had an idea it was that but you can't just pull it out can you? Any detailed indstructions on this? Or do you just pull and turn or just turn the sucker?
#15
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I have the same problem. First start of the day is fine. Then once its warm its a bitch. Seems to be struggling even if its ran out of gas from shutting the switch I have for the fuel pump, it still seems to be flooded on the next start with the pump off...
The timing would make sense. Will the ECU take over the timing and advance as usual, or will it be more retarded then it was through redline?
Ray
The timing would make sense. Will the ECU take over the timing and advance as usual, or will it be more retarded then it was through redline?
Ray
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I got that same symptom, it sounds like it struggles to crack over. I first thought leaky injectors or something or a bad ground to my starter. It still may be those but I don't have time to check the injectors.
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I was studying for exams and then thought about this problem. I go this AH HAH, god am I dumb ***. I went to retighten my loose battery terminals.....Voila, fired up like a champ like never before.
I am going to buy the biggest ******* battery terminals that can possible exist and torque those ******* on there really good. Maybe RamMAN you got the same thing? Might as well check
Sorry for wasting the rotary guru's time
Though some input on advancing to a degree that will not hurt my engine but give an extra horse or something would be helpful?
Thanks
I am going to buy the biggest ******* battery terminals that can possible exist and torque those ******* on there really good. Maybe RamMAN you got the same thing? Might as well check
Sorry for wasting the rotary guru's time
Though some input on advancing to a degree that will not hurt my engine but give an extra horse or something would be helpful?
Thanks
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