2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Can you do your timing with the engine cold?

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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 05:46 PM
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From: Atlanta
GA Can you do your timing with the engine cold?

When my engines cold its at a nice kinda lumpy 750 and then when it heats up its boucing at 1500. I know I need to fix that but I want to knock out my timing.

Can I do my timing while the engines cold at 750? Timing is all gear based so I don't understand how it would change warm or old?
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 05:50 PM
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timing isn't just gear based on rotaries, the ECU has a complete separate function when the engine is in idle mode and retards the timing a rather stupid amount to keep the engine running smooth and lower emissions.

fix the idle issue first, adjust the TPS and then the idle speed setting on the throttle body.
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 05:58 PM
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Sigh.. Yes Rotaryness.
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 06:27 PM
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to Answer the question.... yes. if you remove the thermowax cam from the throttle body(not recommended) or if you hold it out of the way to simulate a warm engine.

However, if you hold the thermowax away from the cam, the throttle plate position will close, most cars won't idle cold.

it sounds like you're getting either A. too much air(leaks)90% b. electrical(sensor) problems
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 10:39 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by Stefan2057
When my engines cold its at a nice kinda lumpy 750 and then when it heats up its boucing at 1500. I know I need to fix that but I want to knock out my timing.

Can I do my timing while the engines cold at 750? Timing is all gear based so I don't understand how it would change warm or old?
spin the engine over until the Leading mark is lined up with the pointer. on the crank angle sensor there is a little plastic cap on the cover, pop the cover off, take off the cap, put the cover on. with the timing right there should be one of the big CAS teeth just about centered in there hole in the CAS cover.

do that and the timing is within a couple degrees which is close enough
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
spin the engine over until the Leading mark is lined up with the pointer. on the crank angle sensor there is a little plastic cap on the cover, pop the cover off, take off the cap, put the cover on. with the timing right there should be one of the big CAS teeth just about centered in there hole in the CAS cover.

do that and the timing is within a couple degrees which is close enough
Well if thats the case then my timing is already close (with in a few degrees) I was thinking that it might be part of my running on the warm side on the high but I guess not.

Time to take charge of this crazy idle..
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 12:58 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by Stefan2057
Well if thats the case then my timing is already close (with in a few degrees) I was thinking that it might be part of my running on the warm side on the high but I guess not.

Time to take charge of this crazy idle..
if its within a few degrees its probably something else.
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 11:28 PM
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Good lord, TPS changes everything it feels like. it was at 500 Oms so I slowly turned it up to 1000 and everything has changed.

When I start the car now its at 750 and after driving for a while its at 750. Weirdest thing though after the last few days around the city she only heats up to 1/6th or maybe 1/5th instead of 1/4th.

Im sure its un related. Its been cooling down here in Atlanta thank god so I can't really test the hwy heating up issue because I don't rev the car bast 3k or so.. Fresh rebuild
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