The Latin RX7

I have a turbo fc with a microtech the engine has 88 turbo internals, doweled and street ported super seals apex seals, and Im starting to tune for high boost, curently running 8psi (wg spring) but heres my timing maps ive read that they are too conservative I put them that way for safety but can running too conservative damage the engine too? car pulls nicely for 8psi now
Keep in mind the real values are 5* less (CAS stabed on factory 5* ATDC Mark)

Hot_Dog

To the best of my knowledge, the answer is no. Too retarded timing will cause power loss to the point where the engine fails to run.

WJM ROTARIES

You should run +10 deg across all rev range as soon as u are in positive boost . This is a good safe tune

The Latin RX7

Ohhh well I suppose I'm on the right way because after 3k rpm im basiclly all the way at 10* (it says 15 but its actually 5degrees less)

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Yes too retarded of a timing can cause an improper flame front from the trailing plug's firing and pushing the rotor backwards. with a large amount of split you can actually cause it to ignite in the next rotor chamber.
I've been told 15 degress of split timing in boost is the safest way to go.
You're leaving a LOT of drivability power on the table as well. Most stock/streetport engines are going to be happy with 25-30* of timing in your vacuum cruise area so 2000-4000 rpm. Then as you raise into boost you want to start retarding timing. 18* is safe for about 5 PSI and taper to 15* at 15 PSI. Over 15 PSI I would taper down too about 10* of timing with 15* of split.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Those timing maps are a bit insanely conservative.

You can do a fair bit of damage by retarding timing too much. As already mentioned, competing flame fronts. But also lots of afterburn into the exhaust, super heating the manifold, turbine, etc.

Your T_RPM map is almost backwards.

It should be around 10 degrees at idle, then rise to about 30 degrees by 3000 RPM.

Your T_MAP then needs to be adjusted to pull timing down to about 15 degrees by about 8 PSI of boost. Above that, taper down to 10 degrees by about 12 PSI and run 10 degrees flat beyond that.

The Latin RX7

Ok Im going tl change the trpm* and use tmap to remove timing instead of using trpm... So even if I run up to 25psi I leave the timing at 10°? Sorry to ask so much is just that ive never tuned timing before so dont want to blow the engine... And also the fact the I cant hear or distinguish a rotary detonating...

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Think of it this way, if it helps, because the Microtech timing paradigm is just plain weird. Instead of a 3D map like, oh, every other ECU, the use this strage virtual distributer model.

So, think of T_RPM as mechanical advance

And T_MAP as vacuum advance that is also retard capable

So just like a dizzy, you set your "base" timing curve on T_RPM which is typically something like 5 or 10 degrees at idle, a linear progression to about 25 degrees by 2500 RPM, then then flat to redline.

Your "advance/retard" curve on T_MAP then adds timing under high vacuum (in cruise it should add anther 5 or so degrees for a total cruise timing of 30 degrees), and retards it under boost by pulling it away from the T_RPM.

Just remember to START CONSERVATIVE. You can put in a massive timing retard in T_MAP when you start tuning, the pull out retard as you go to get the final timing curve.

The Latin RX7

Ok thanks man appreciate the help, the microtech indeed seems odd, way too simple compared to today's haltechs, adaptronics ect

The Latin RX7

Are these maps better?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

That looks like a good place to start.

And yes, you'll find the Microtech timing set up very limiting. Frankly, most things about the Microtech are limiting. Does work reliably however.

The Latin RX7

Ok thank you