Can now reach normal operating temperature. What to check?
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Can now reach normal operating temperature. What to check?
So, I finally got an e-fan in. My stock fan never turned off, so the temperature only went partially above cold.
Now that I can reach half way through the full range. What should i re-check? I will check TPS.... anything else?
Now that I can reach half way through the full range. What should i re-check? I will check TPS.... anything else?
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See if you have a thermostat in the thermostat housing. The stock elect fan in front of the radiator can't stop an engine from getting up to full temperature.
The stock fan in will run continuously if the green/black wire is not plugged onto the water temperature switch on top of the thermostat housing.
The stock fan in will run continuously if the green/black wire is not plugged onto the water temperature switch on top of the thermostat housing.
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Thanks HAILERS. I do have a thermostat.
Isn't the stock fan controlled purely by the temp of the engine? I.E. It gets too hot and the clutch engages, cools the car, and then when cool, the fan disengages?
I checked my connection on the back of the thermostat housing and it is ok. I did however replace the connections on the bottom of the radiator. Now that I think of it. Is this the temp sensor that sends to the dash? The old ones were barely on there, cracked and broken looking.
Isn't the stock fan controlled purely by the temp of the engine? I.E. It gets too hot and the clutch engages, cools the car, and then when cool, the fan disengages?
I checked my connection on the back of the thermostat housing and it is ok. I did however replace the connections on the bottom of the radiator. Now that I think of it. Is this the temp sensor that sends to the dash? The old ones were barely on there, cracked and broken looking.
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Aren't the stock elec fans in the engine bay for cooling the condenser for the A/C system?
And you have a S4 correct? Isn't the S4 temp gauge only suppose to go 1/4-1/3 of the way up for full operating temp? And S5 goes 1/2 way?
I was under the impression that the clutch fan was always on and the clutch was to actually slow it down at high rpm.
And the connection on the radiator is for your coolant buzzer. The one that goes to the gauge in the cluster is located below the oil pressure sending unit.
And you have a S4 correct? Isn't the S4 temp gauge only suppose to go 1/4-1/3 of the way up for full operating temp? And S5 goes 1/2 way?
I was under the impression that the clutch fan was always on and the clutch was to actually slow it down at high rpm.
And the connection on the radiator is for your coolant buzzer. The one that goes to the gauge in the cluster is located below the oil pressure sending unit.
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Hmmm, i thought the sensor on the top of the radiator, single wire, was the sensor for the coolant buzzer. I'll have to double check the FSM.
My car had no electric fans stock. And i had A/C. Maybe on a different model they came with electric fans?
My car had no electric fans stock. And i had A/C. Maybe on a different model they came with electric fans?
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There is a stock electric fan located in front of the radiator/oil cooler on some cars. It uses a water temperature switch on top of the thermostat housing to trigger it on or off. IF that wire is left off the temperature switch, then the electric fan runs all the time.
I use the word STOCK meaning made by MAZDA vs the AFTERMARKET fans.
I mentioned that temperature switch is on top of the thermostat housing, not the radiator.
When you said your stock fan never turned off, I ASSuMEd that it was the electric fan in front of the radiator. What other fan won't turn off is beyond my limited knowledge. Well I guess the stock mechanical fan could be a problem that sense, maybe.
The stock electrical fans function can be found in the online FSM and its wiring in the wiring section of the FSM. Page called COOLING FAN SYSTEM.
I use the word STOCK meaning made by MAZDA vs the AFTERMARKET fans.
I mentioned that temperature switch is on top of the thermostat housing, not the radiator.
When you said your stock fan never turned off, I ASSuMEd that it was the electric fan in front of the radiator. What other fan won't turn off is beyond my limited knowledge. Well I guess the stock mechanical fan could be a problem that sense, maybe.
The stock electrical fans function can be found in the online FSM and its wiring in the wiring section of the FSM. Page called COOLING FAN SYSTEM.
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There are a couple reasons. And, cold doesn't = more power.
First, the drain caused when accelerating by a mechanical fan which is always on, is terrible. Not dramatic, but it does suck.
Also, vehicles are made to work at a specific operating temp. You don't want your car to always be "cold".
First, the drain caused when accelerating by a mechanical fan which is always on, is terrible. Not dramatic, but it does suck.
Also, vehicles are made to work at a specific operating temp. You don't want your car to always be "cold".
#11
There are a couple reasons. And, cold doesn't = more power.
First, the drain caused when accelerating by a mechanical fan which is always on, is terrible. Not dramatic, but it does suck.
Also, vehicles are made to work at a specific operating temp. You don't want your car to always be "cold".
First, the drain caused when accelerating by a mechanical fan which is always on, is terrible. Not dramatic, but it does suck.
Also, vehicles are made to work at a specific operating temp. You don't want your car to always be "cold".
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Just a side note, removing the clutch fan doesn't make the car have more power, it just frees up power that was previously being used to spin the clutch fan.
And you interpreted what I said wrong. A car that is running below op temp but still a reasonable range (140-170) IS going to produce more power than the same motor at operating temp (180-200). Why do you think turbo guys try to keep the motor and air going into it as cool as possible? At or lower than OP temp = higher #'s.
You ever been to the track and see supercharged/turbo'd cars with icebags on the motor and SC/turbo before they even make their first pass? Theirs a reason.
And you interpreted what I said wrong. A car that is running below op temp but still a reasonable range (140-170) IS going to produce more power than the same motor at operating temp (180-200). Why do you think turbo guys try to keep the motor and air going into it as cool as possible? At or lower than OP temp = higher #'s.
You ever been to the track and see supercharged/turbo'd cars with icebags on the motor and SC/turbo before they even make their first pass? Theirs a reason.
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Just a side note, removing the clutch fan doesn't make the car have more power, it just frees up power that was previously being used to spin the clutch fan.
And you interpreted what I said wrong. A car that is running below op temp but still a reasonable range (140-170) IS going to produce more power than the same motor at operating temp (180-200). Why do you think turbo guys try to keep the motor and air going into it as cool as possible? At or lower than OP temp = higher #'s.
You ever been to the track and see supercharged/turbo'd cars with icebags on the motor and SC/turbo before they even make their first pass? Theirs a reason.
And you interpreted what I said wrong. A car that is running below op temp but still a reasonable range (140-170) IS going to produce more power than the same motor at operating temp (180-200). Why do you think turbo guys try to keep the motor and air going into it as cool as possible? At or lower than OP temp = higher #'s.
You ever been to the track and see supercharged/turbo'd cars with icebags on the motor and SC/turbo before they even make their first pass? Theirs a reason.
I must have mis-stated. I know it doesn't add power. But, did free up power from my fan which was stuck on.
Thanks for all the replies. Though a bit off topic. Informative non the less.
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you know that the thermostat controls the engine temp not the fan. the fan is there to move air when the car is stopped through the radiator. whenever the engine goes above a certain temp the thermostat opens and lets in the cooled coolant through the engine to cool it down. oh and the fan is free wheeling for the most part until the engine temp reaches a certain point. it just spins kind of like spinners do when the clutch fan is not engaged, you can actually stop it by hand. i have done it and lightly revved the engine ( i would not recommend trying this)
I knew about the thermostat. Had to replace it about 2 years ago when the old one failed. One of the first things I look at when the vehicle starts to overheat. Old one would never open. Replaced with OEM (mazdatrix) thermostat, no more overheating.
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*********Replaced with OEM (mazdatrix) thermostat, no more overheating.
************************************************** **********************
Ah, Ha! Says I. I've bought Mazdatrix thermostats in the past. Both opened at 160*F. Pissed me off and still pisses me off. Should be opening at 180*F. There was no number on the two thermostats I bought from them stating they were 160*thermostats. Ugggh.
************************************************** **********************
Ah, Ha! Says I. I've bought Mazdatrix thermostats in the past. Both opened at 160*F. Pissed me off and still pisses me off. Should be opening at 180*F. There was no number on the two thermostats I bought from them stating they were 160*thermostats. Ugggh.
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