Loose-Goose1255

I'm gonna start this off simply: I'm in high school with no budget to have someone do it for me. I have a jig and from watching people stud motors it seems that I have/can get the tools needed to do it I just dont know how difficult the process itself would be for someone of my skill level. My '90 FC is my first car, and I've turboed it and done all sorts of things over the year I've had it(idk if anything I've done has actually worked cuz the motor is out the car). It is a 6port build so my block I'd assume is decent bit weaker than a turbo motor and I want to stud it. Aiming for 350-450 whp. I just wanna get a second opinion ok n doing it myself or pushing the finish line back to have someone else do it for me.
thank you

neit_jnf

iTrader: (17)

just get Turblown's studs, no machining required, just remove and replace one at a time if the motor is already assembled.

FC turbo for a first car is something! don't go crazy with mods, and do them right, GET A PROPER TUNE!!!! and keep up with maintenance and enjoy it!

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

its worth noting that the JDM tuners take the same route Mazda did and when they want to make the engine more rigid they add a big oil pan brace like the one Super Now! sells

the other thing is that combustion pressure at ~350hp is about 325psi, but if you let it detonate you'd be seeing 10x that, and no amount of dowels will help you there.

Loose-Goose1255

thank you man! When I bought this car it didnt run or anything. I bought it because the FC is my dream car and I wanted to learn..and learn I did. In about 3 months I got it to run and guess what? It blew up on start. Devastating. That's when I decided to built the motor. Here I am a year later taking it step by step, havent even rebuilt the motor yet because I've spent all this time just researching how to built the motor and how to do things correct. With other people my age would do it so they wouldnt send great cars to their graves :,)

Dak

Since you are going to have it apert to rebuild it, you might think about using turbo rotors to lower your compression. It'll give you an extra margin of safety once you start getting closer to your power goals.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (2)

edit:

you don’t have to be rich to run people in circles giving advice that will never materialize.

ps: this has been a paid message by your parents.
.
.

Loose-Goose1255

I was thinking about it but people said water meth+studs should be good. If I do need to replace my rotors should I use S4 or S5 rotors?

Relisys190

iTrader: (4)

Just don't detonate and maybe run E85 to help with that.. Sometimes I feel im pushing my luck running NA 9.7 rotors but the Ethanol makes me feel better when i'm playing in the upper boost ranges.

Good luck and have fun!

-M

Dak

I would say S5 since that is what your motor is. You won't have to change counterweights. To run S4 you would have to use S4 front and rear counterweights.

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

Same oil pan brace Banzai Racing sells?

In my previous 400rwhp S5 turbo keg I ran Pineapple racing solid dowel set. Since I needed oiling from the original oil feed at the front of the front plate, I ran 1 solid, 1 drilled. It takes some finessing when installing the entire engine together with the solid dowels.

I am now running a soon to be 6port turbo s4 keg and I have Banzai oil pan brace, and the Pineapple racing solid down set. Aiming for 450-500 so I am hoping these items make the keg rigid enough to resist rotation, which honestly it should.
No need to stud unless you got money and its a dedicated racing engine pushing 600hp.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

nope! its a 10mm thick aluminum plate, also doubles as a baffle

pic is an FD one,