I'm looking at this GTU for sale and was curious to get some feedback on the rust.







Here are the compression numbers. I'm a newbie and these don't seem too bad, but the spread has me wondering. The car has only been driven about 2,000 miles in the last two decades. Engine died after a hard pull, but was able to start again after it cooled off. Also has bouncing idle.

 

The engine looks healthy, so that's good.

There's a hole in the floor in a pretty common spot. I don't know if that bothers you or not, or how comfortable you are with repairing something like that.

I guess it depends on your level of skill, and money you'd like to invest.

 

Agree. Compression numbers look great.

For the right price, I wouldn't be afraid of it. But this is not a jump and daily drive car. It needs some love. But I mostly see surface rust. These 2 spots look like the worst of it to me. And maybe the spare tire well. But could also only be surface rust.



I just saw a an 87 GXL posted near me. This one looks scary, to me.

 

[QUOTE=GtiKyle;12635940]The engine looks healthy, so that's good.

There's a hole in the floor in a pretty common spot. I don't know if that bothers you or not, or how comfortable you are with repairing something like that.

I guess it depends on your level of skill, and money you'd like to invest.

Would you be concerned about the coolant seals from sitting for the last 21 years. Original engine with 111,000 miles. Driven 2,000 since 2004.

Yeah, I'm concerned about those spots as well. I haven't learned how to weld (yet). If they are holes, any idea how big of a job it is to fix? Or how hard for a DIYer like myself to tackle?

 

Yeah, I'm trying to figure out how much those areas bother me. I'm not local to the car so I can't inspect closely in person. I'm a DIYer and don't know how to weld (yet). My plan was to hit it with a rotary tool and/or media blaster, but if a hole is forming I may need to jump into weld. Any idea how involved it would be for a pro to fix?

Despite the good compression, would you be concerned at all with an original engine with 111,000 miles? that's only been driven 2,000 since 2004. I hear stories about coolant seals going bad with long periods of sitting, despite good compression, but I'm new to rotaries. Engine has a bouncing idle, which I hope can be resolved by cleaning BAC/IACV. Also, the seller did a hard pull and the engine died and wouln't start for a while, but did later once it cooled down

What's your thoughts on the value? I agree re: right price. If I bought it, plan would be to spend most of the next year on it for the rust and getting it back to OE condition. It's got 111,000 on original engine. Interior is in good shape. Paint is heavily oxidized but the panels are straight. Clean title. Down the road I'd look to repaint it and rebuild the engine when the time comes.

Yeah, that GXL does look scary, for sure.

 

this is every FC since they were new

 

Prices vary from region to region so I can't say for sure. Where I'm from That's probably a 5-8K CAD/3600-6k USD car...Too many variables to give anything looking like a good answer though.

I am also not a welder by trade or by amateur but have aspirations but how hard can it be? - famous last words. My car has a confirmed rust hole, but I think it can be fixed.

As far as low coolant, you can check the oil for signs, exhaust smoke and even just plain old coolant level. But again, for the right price it might not even matter. My brother got an 88 GXL for $500. Sat for a good 12 years - but for that price, doesn't matter.

 

I appreciate your input. On the welding, I've always wanted to get at least semi-proficient with it. From what I've gathered, you can pick up a decent MIG setup for roughly $500 and would be able to handle low key stuff after about 15-20 hours of practice. A local maker space near me offers a 3-hour course for beginners, which is probably how I'll start.

The seller checked out the rust spots and they're fairly solid - no holes yet. Driver's side is thicker than the passenger side, but it's holding together. Both need to be treated ASAP, obviously.

Seller wants around $7K for it, which is 2-3 grand higher than I'd value it at. Still thinking it over.

 

This is so true. I'm learning that more and more as I get deeper into rotaryland, ha ha.

 

You are correct, that price is out of line for what it is. I bought my 88 SE which is pristine, running perfectly, and completely rust free for less a few years ago.

 

Hey, mine always been rock solid.







Until it's not.
In all seriousness though I seem to have somehow avoided many issue's I've seen people have on here. Other than the cold solder joint/ relay related issues. For instance my clock doesn't work and my wipers only have one speed. Engine wise other than a couple rebuilds (car has over 300,000 miles on it) I've not did much other than oil changes. I sometimes think it's because I changed all the vacuum lines to silicone ones during my first rebuild back in 1998.

As to that car I wouldn't say that rust is too bad for a car it's age. Mine's been in Tennesse it's whole life and has some rust as well. At least it looks to be in the still not to hard to fix stages. If you can get it for the right price.
As for welding I think learning is doable. I learned to mig weld from Youtube videos. I am no pro but I feel decent. People who weld that I've shown picture of things I did say the welds look fine. I currently have a Harbor Freight Titanium series multiprocess (mig, stick, tig) welder. It's no Miller for sure but for the home/ hobbist welder it's decent. I've only done MIG so far. Any way watch some videos, take that course you mentioned, and you can learn.

 

time to invest in a gallon of POR15 and lots of wire brushes.

that silver GXL is a goner though, time for the scrapper with that shell after parting it out.

the issue with welding repairs isn't the welding work but the fact the whole interior needs to be stripped out to do it, welding on a car that hasn't been stripped is just a huge fire hazard. lazy folks have tried to cut out the stripping part only to be rewarded with a black spot in their driveway/workshop and no car anymore.

 

Yeah...I need to get at it with a wire wheel and see what I'm dealing with. Wight all the sealant on the underbody it's hard to tell what I'm looking at.

 

I'm glad to hear that. I was interested in it, but I just can't for that price. I'll land one.

 

Hello from Nashville! Thanks so much for this reply. I'm hoping to have the same experience with the car I end up buying. Honestly, it's not most of the rotary-specific stuff that scares me. it's that mechanics are seemingly hard to come by in these parts, and in the odd times where I'm in over my head and need to call a pro for help with a problem, I haven't found a shop in the middle TN area that's up for getting into the guts of these cars. I do have these forums though, which are amazing!

I really appreciate knowing about your welding setup. That's probably what I'll do as well. What kind of welding have you been doing? I figure I'll be able to weld new floor pans and stuff like that with some practice (doesn't have to look perfect anyhow), but I'm also looking at cars with dented rear quarters or rocker panels and I'm wondering how much skill it'd take to be able to repair jobs like that. I've wanted to learn to weld for decades though, so I'll get there.

 

Yeah, I used POR15 to coat the underside of a 63 Impala when I was 16. I see it hasn't gotten any cheaper, ha ha.

Ah, this is great advice.

 

My brother rather insightfully noted: There is not a problem on these cars some one else already hasn't had and has documented a forum post or video about it...

 

i've been on plenty of other car forums and they all suck, there's lacking experience on all of them in just about every area. the rx7 community is the most in depth regarding their cars and knowing how to fix them.

 

That's very reassuring. I'm going to need the help I'm sure, ha ha. As I learn more, I'm also looking forward to helping pass the knowledge along.

I just learned about the Rotary Revival Tour, which looks interesting. Anyone have have recommendations for/against it? From the looks of it, you can bring your own engine and work on it there, which is awesome.

 

Haven't personally done it, but at this late stage/end of life (old platform, fewer cars out there, fewer parts, etc.), I'm a big proponent of supporting these kinds of things to keep the platform alive. If you're looking to acquire some hands-on knowledge, then I say go for it.
I've learned a ton from "rad potential" on YouTube too, he has several rebuild videos that walk you through step by step, and there's a ton to be learned from his resource too.

 

ive been to a lot of car meets and forums for different makes (marques, if our pinkies want to be out), and i agree, the Rotary people are really cool, the Rotary world is also pretty small and accessible, so if you hang out you meet everyone, its really good.
i didn't get to say high to the Rad Potential guy, but we were parked next to him at Seven stock, and he seems to live up to his name, he's cool. Rob Dahm is cool, he was the next row over.

 

Yeah, agreed. I'm looking forward to doing it. I've been talking to the organizer, Matthew, and he's a solid dude.

Thanks for the heads up on Rad Potential. I think I've run across a video or two of his, but I just subscribed.

 

Seven Stock looks awesome but is a reach for me since I'm in Nashville, TN. I am on the lookout for any events in the southeast/midwest region that I can get to within a decent drive.

Yeah, Rob Dahm's content is great.

 

Hello, I think since the car was only 7 years old with 83,000 miles on it when I got it probably helped. That's not to say it's never had issues. It's had the usual things a 30+ year old car would have. Altenator, starter. a couple water pumps, driveshaft, wheel bearings, radiator. Probably a couple other minor things I forgot like 3rd gear syncro has issues. Upshifts fine but will grind if I don't double clutch on downshifts. Been that way for over 200k miles. Royal Purple gear oil helped for a while. . but it's really been no less reliable than other cars we've had over the years. As to shops, I've always did all that I can myself so I really don't have any advice beyond learning to do all you can yourself.
For welding. I haven't done any for about a year when I rewelded my tiller's handle back to the bracket.Just haven't had time to take on the projects I have planned. I've mostly done exhaust work on a Toyota truck I used to have and rebuilt the rusted-out sections of my car exhaust. Here's a thread for my biggest project so far.
The rabbit hole that is the Rx8 rear end swap. - RX7Club.com - Mazda RX7 Forum

Edit to add. I started welding with flux core and the switched to MIG. Mig use a gas mix for shielding gas while flux core uses a flux in the wire that creates the gas during welding. Any MIG welder can run flux core wire. Also I've not welded anything thin like body panels yet but from what I understand it a different set of skills to keep the thin metal from warping. Like I think TIG is better for thin stuff but people have done body work with MIG for years. Just can't run a solid bead like on thicker metal as it will warp and make it be wavy. Have to do small spots almost like spot welding and stich it together with little spots at a time to keep from getting to much heat in it to keep from warping. And regardless of welding method you have to grind the welds smooth afterwards so they can't be seen after painting if they are anywhere visible.

 

Thanks Dak, that's really helpful! Like you, I'm planning to start with thicker stuff and work my way to body panels. My ultimate goal is to be able to cut out a crusty rocker panel and weld one back in with it turning out really nice in the end. I'll be overjoyed at that point. I definitely have a lot to learn.

That rear end looks fantastic. Nice work1 It must feel so rewarding to do that yourself. I'm looking forward to getting there in a few years. When the time comes for me to buy my welding set up, I'd like to run it by you beforehand if that's alight. I gotta get the car first, ha ha. Ironically I'm hunting for a car that won't need a lot of welding, but there will be enough welding here and there that I want to learn to do it. Knowing how to weld opens up so many possibilities.

Speaking of which, let me know if you run across any FCs for sale that you think you are good buys. I've got a truck/trailer and am willing to drive a long way (day or two) from Nashville for the right car. Open to rollers or complete car. Just needs to be a coupe w/sunroof, manual, 5-lug, and have a title. I'd love an S5 but would take a clean S4, for sure.