Camden SC Install
10-01-04, 10:10 PM
#1
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Camden SC Install
I just got started, do you guys want me to post pics or anything? I'll point out major issues that aren't covered in the instructions, and I'll post pics when it's all done.
10-01-04, 11:26 PM
#4
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
So far so good, but I've only drained the fluids and gotten as far as removing the throttle body. I'll be sure to post any problems I run into. So far as I can tell you just need a good set of sockets, a breaker bar, really just basic tools. Oh yeah and a lot of zip-loc bags to separate your nuts and bolts.
First things first - get your fluids drained and then disconnect your battery
Then, if you have a strut bar - take it off, along with the upper radiator hose (you'll be working a lot in this area later).
Take off your air filter, your AFM and your air intake pipe.
Then follow the steps labeled in the FSM to remove the throttle body. that's it for now.
First things first - get your fluids drained and then disconnect your battery
Then, if you have a strut bar - take it off, along with the upper radiator hose (you'll be working a lot in this area later).
Take off your air filter, your AFM and your air intake pipe.
Then follow the steps labeled in the FSM to remove the throttle body. that's it for now.
10-02-04, 02:09 PM
#6
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Yeah it's getting complex now, because you have to take off the dynamic chamber, then the air pump, then the intake manifold. Make sure you have a REALLY short phillip's head screwdriver to get off the split air pipe.
I also figured out how the entire fuel injection system is going to work. Because you have to have all the fuel being injected aft of the supercharger, you leave the primary injectors/fuel rail where it is (basically right on the block), then you install the new secondary rail at the end of the new intake manifold. That means you have to solder in extensions for the secondary injector connections. So you keep all four injectors, to answer a few peoples' question.
I'm tempted to leave in the 460 primaries and go 460/720 primary/secondary, but I'm not running standalone, and I think that would make for a rough transition because all I have is an AFC-II.
I also figured out how the entire fuel injection system is going to work. Because you have to have all the fuel being injected aft of the supercharger, you leave the primary injectors/fuel rail where it is (basically right on the block), then you install the new secondary rail at the end of the new intake manifold. That means you have to solder in extensions for the secondary injector connections. So you keep all four injectors, to answer a few peoples' question.
I'm tempted to leave in the 460 primaries and go 460/720 primary/secondary, but I'm not running standalone, and I think that would make for a rough transition because all I have is an AFC-II.
10-09-04, 01:07 PM
#7
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Alright yesterday I finally got around to turning the corner as far as the install. Now I've gone from taking stuff off to putting stuff on. So far I have the oil pan reinstalled and I transferred the timing marks and installed the pulley system. I've also assembled the lower intake manifold, waiting for it to go on. Please note that when these instructions say something like, "You may have to temporarily disconnect your heater lines to get enough clearance to install the lower intake manifold" it more closely means, "Remove your heater hose or you're gonna break something, you retard".
As far as special tools go, make sure you have or can rent an industrial drill that accepts a long 7/16ths drill bit, because no home drill is going to accept a drill bit that big. The industrial drill also helps because it has a handle so you can hold the drill steady as you punch through the block. Don't worry, the industrial drill won't even have to go full-speed to punch through the block.
I'm a little conscerned about vaccum holes on the engine block. I've got this feeling that there are more than I have blocked off (about 6 or so including the EGR valve). Anyone know of all the vaccum holes/general holes on the engine block?
As far as special tools go, make sure you have or can rent an industrial drill that accepts a long 7/16ths drill bit, because no home drill is going to accept a drill bit that big. The industrial drill also helps because it has a handle so you can hold the drill steady as you punch through the block. Don't worry, the industrial drill won't even have to go full-speed to punch through the block.
I'm a little conscerned about vaccum holes on the engine block. I've got this feeling that there are more than I have blocked off (about 6 or so including the EGR valve). Anyone know of all the vaccum holes/general holes on the engine block?
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10-12-04, 08:44 AM
#8
SUPERnaturally Aspirated
the 2 on the oil injectors need to be blocked, as well as the charcoal canister line... i think thats it most of the vacuum lines are on your removed intake manifold
10-12-04, 08:28 PM
#9
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Okay so I stuck the blower on and guess what? Something they forgot to mention in the directions was that the A/C line is right in the way. Nice.
10-12-04, 11:30 PM
#11
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
I was considering removing the A/C system for the hell of it, but I don't know about if that would depressurize the system and vent freon and crap (very illegal).
10-12-04, 11:33 PM
#13
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by shiftnmadkwik
the 2 on the oil injectors need to be blocked, as well as the charcoal canister line... i think thats it most of the vacuum lines are on your removed intake manifold
10-13-04, 01:14 AM
#16
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
We got the wiring all done the past two days, so my dad had to run back and forth to the hardware store for things like, well:
So I started looking for stuff to do, like this:
So I started looking for stuff to do, like this:
10-13-04, 09:08 AM
#18
Rotorhead
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Originally Posted by snub disphenoid
10-13-04, 02:50 PM
#20
SUPERnaturally Aspirated
Originally Posted by snub disphenoid
Don't forget that one HUGE nipple on the top of the engine. I also found one line on the side, but I don't know what it is, I just plugged it.
thats not vacuum, its a coolant line, same as the one on the back of the waterpump housing.. before removal it should have gone
block->thermowax assembly->bacv->water pump housing.
it looks like your injectors fit in your fuel rail better than mine, gary told me to use 2 grommits in the intake manifold to space mine out further to clear the clip what injectors are you using
Last edited by shiftnmadkwik; 10-13-04 at 02:57 PM.
10-13-04, 03:29 PM
#21
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
for the secondaries I used Greddy 720cc/min injectors, and they fit well, surprisingly. My injector clips are a little old, though, and I'm not too sure on my dad's suggestion to use butt splices for the injector wire extensions...
Evil Aviator: I think I might just have a generic intake adapter and an HKS filter. I don't know how that happened, but my brother did buy the whole shebangabang for $40, so you never know. And no, there's no hole in the back of the adapter. You don't have to worry about that little breather filter, either, because the air pump's gone anyways.
Oh, I can't seem to find that unplugged coolant hole on the water pump housing, could you give me any description about where it is?
Evil Aviator: I think I might just have a generic intake adapter and an HKS filter. I don't know how that happened, but my brother did buy the whole shebangabang for $40, so you never know. And no, there's no hole in the back of the adapter. You don't have to worry about that little breather filter, either, because the air pump's gone anyways.
Oh, I can't seem to find that unplugged coolant hole on the water pump housing, could you give me any description about where it is?
10-14-04, 10:54 AM
#22
SUPERnaturally Aspirated
send me a pm and ill send you a picture of that nipple as soon as i get a chance
i unloomed everything on mine and got plenty of slack so that i didnt even need to extend the wiring, if i were you i would solder the connections, not just use butt connectors.. most times butt connectors are fine but you never know
i unloomed everything on mine and got plenty of slack so that i didnt even need to extend the wiring, if i were you i would solder the connections, not just use butt connectors.. most times butt connectors are fine but you never know
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