2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Camber???

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jan 26, 2010 | 09:26 AM
  #26  
87 t-66's Avatar
not a drifter
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (133)
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,337
Likes: 6
From: Columbus, Ohio
i was able to get within 0.1 degree of camber difference from side to side by using the mazdatrix camber link.
Reply
Old Jan 26, 2010 | 09:47 AM
  #27  
LargeOrangeFont's Avatar
Fistful of steel
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,202
Likes: 27
From: OC, So Cal
Originally Posted by Black91n/a
Individual adjusters can and do lead to binding in the rear, or worse, if you adjust them very far from the stock length, UNLESS you have spherical bearings in your control arms. This will be worse with stiffer bushings, terrible with hard plastic or metal ones. IMHO they should ONLY be used to even out the camber side to side when it's been adjusted with the subframe link.
Unless you have solid subframe bushings that render a subframe link useless. I'm fully solid with spherical arm bearings out back.
Reply
Old Jan 26, 2010 | 09:48 AM
  #28  
LargeOrangeFont's Avatar
Fistful of steel
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,202
Likes: 27
From: OC, So Cal
Originally Posted by 87 t-66
i was able to get within 0.1 degree of camber difference from side to side by using the mazdatrix camber link.
Thats pretty good. I had about a degree of difference from side to side.
Reply
Old Jan 27, 2010 | 02:05 AM
  #29  
NoPistons!'s Avatar
Tango Down
Tenured Member 05 Years
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,895
Likes: 3
From: SC/NC
What if you max out your sublink's camber adjustment to zero and are dumped as ****?

Run both it and individual adjusters?


Just a question.

Seeing how much room i have to work with here before **** starts binding up.

It would be soo much easier with a multilink rear setup but we dont have it that easy.


OP: I hope to hell you only bought 1 of those......

The individual links are sold in pairs and the sublink is sold as a single.
Reply
Old Jan 27, 2010 | 08:18 AM
  #30  
Black91n/a's Avatar
Lives on the Forum
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5,707
Likes: 6
From: BC, Canada
Originally Posted by LargeOrangeFont
Unless you have solid subframe bushings that render a subframe link useless. I'm fully solid with spherical arm bearings out back.
I've heard people report that they still got a subframe link to work with solid bushings, since the subfrane will still be able to flex on its own. I'd think that it'd make it harder to adjust and/or limit travel, but I wouldn't go so far as to say it's useless (unless you've tried?).
Reply
Old Jan 27, 2010 | 10:24 PM
  #31  
LargeOrangeFont's Avatar
Fistful of steel
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,202
Likes: 27
From: OC, So Cal
Originally Posted by Black91n/a
I've heard people report that they still got a subframe link to work with solid bushings, since the subfrane will still be able to flex on its own. I'd think that it'd make it harder to adjust and/or limit travel, but I wouldn't go so far as to say it's useless (unless you've tried?).
It was useless for me. I did make an attempt to see if the subframe would move and it did not. But I do run solid subframe bushings and soild front and rear diff mounts.

Why waste the money on a single adjuster if you will need to buy the individual adjusters too?
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Spirit Rx-7
Suspension/Wheels/Tires/Brakes
6
Mar 14, 2016 12:36 PM
imitek
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
13
Oct 28, 2015 10:57 AM
Barry_Beef
General Rotary Tech Support
0
Sep 22, 2015 06:36 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:36 PM.