I'm sorry if this is a dumb question and i might seem dumb but how do i adjust my rear camber? I have kei office coilovers by the way. If anyone could help me out i would REALLY appreciate it.

thanks

 

adjustable camber links from mazdatrix

 

thats the only option? to get camber arms?

 

what other answer did you think you were going to get?

there is NO factory adjustment arm, rod, pivot, anything on the rear of the FC for camber.

if you want a different option you can always go buy a 10lb sledgehammer and have at it, i'm sure you can get some that way.

 

MMR sells individual rear camber adjusters for $125. These are much cheaper than Mazdatrix and AWR, and just a little more expensive than the adjustable subframe link that still leaves camber uneven. The sublink is kind of a waste of time unless yours has slop in it.

 

I have the SuperNow adjustable sublink, and I just ordered individual adjuster from AWR.

 

so thats the only way to do it?

 

how many ways do you think there is to adjust camber? you bend something or install an adjustable link.

sure you could also try cutting out your knuckle tops and re weld them to the frame closer in towards the center of the car in the rear also but i don't think you want to do that either..

if you're looking for a $10 fix, there isn't one. figured my subtle hints would get through but unfortunately, nope.

 

you don't have to be a dick.. i just want to know and thats why i'm asking

 

what do you mean by slop LargeOrangeFont?

 

ok then so i have the option between mazdatrix and MMR. which one do you guys suggest?

thanks

 

Awr.

 

If the bushings are worn out on your OEM sublink, it will allow the subframe to move more than is should.

I have the MMR adjusters. They are cheaper, and I like the design better. Really, either will work for you.

 

I disagree, I have poly diff mounts and MMR front diff mount and the camber link worked great for me. If the OP doesn't care about precise handling (for autox, track, backroad) then the sublink will be his best bet. Its cheaper and it doesn't require an alignment (the instructions have a rough calculation method on achieving the desired camber).

 

Well I have not met very many people with the sublink that have even camber from side to side in the rear. It is not a precise handling issue as much as it is an even tire wear issue. There is no "calculation method" when you are dealing with 25+ year old rubber bushings in the back of the car.

My point is, if you are going to spend the money, spend a few dollars more and just get individual adjusters. Unless there is something wrong with your sublink, you do not need both to adjust the rear camber to spec.

I have soild subframe and diff mounts, so the adjustable sublink is useless for me anyway.

 

With older bushings the accuracy of the adjusting method is reduced but to say that it is completely invalid is extreme. When I installed my coilovers and lowered the car my camber went from 1.5" or so to 3" even. This gives me reason to believe that with the subframe lowered via the link the camber will be within 0.3* of each other. This is not a big enough difference to cause an uneven wear issue and thus if the OP doesn't care about handing (likely) he would be better off saving the $60-70 (alignment and additional cost) and some time by installing the sub link. Just my opinion though.

 

I didnt say it was invalid. The the sub link does work, but to each his own.

 

i ended up buying Ground Control camber links

 

http://www.ground-control-store.com/.../II=156/CA=87]

thats the url for anyone who is interested. thanks very much for everyones input and anyone who was patient with dumb me

 

The front can be adjusted by camber plates from aftermarket coilovers right?

 

yup. you gotta get yourself some camber plates

 

Dont' sum aftermarket coilovers have the camber plates?

 

not in the rear, the front struts are determined by the location of the strut in the tower, in the rear the strut only aids in travel but not in wheel positioning.

 

exactly right..

 

Individual adjusters can and do lead to binding in the rear, or worse, if you adjust them very far from the stock length, UNLESS you have spherical bearings in your control arms. This will be worse with stiffer bushings, terrible with hard plastic or metal ones. IMHO they should ONLY be used to even out the camber side to side when it's been adjusted with the subframe link.