FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

I recently rebuilt my short block and wanted to perform a coolant pressure test to make sure i didnt pinch a coolant seal.

Pineapple racing has the tool but its back ordered and atkin's price is twice as much for the tool.
I made a plate with a fitting and tried using a cylinder leak down test tool with a mini air compressor. Pressurized it to 13psi and noticed i have a tiny leak where the plate mates to the front iron. I cannot for the life of me get this plate to seal 100% flush to the front iron. Its the tinniest leak and its throwing me off if a coolant seal could be leaking.

My question is if i did pinch a coolant seal would the pressure test go down super quick or very very slow. Because of my tiny leak with the home made plate pressure is going down very slow and i hoping that's the only reason for loosing pressure.

Anybody pressurize a block with a pinched coolant seal before? How quickly did you loose pressure basically.

Here's a picture of what i trying to finish soon. Plate wasn't finished and none of the coolant passages were blocked off in the picture. Cheers

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

put the water pump on it, loop a radiator hose and pressurize though the cap?

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

go get the gasket from the dealer.. its like $5 bucks tops, source: Just bought one. and then yes, Pump on, close loop the system, spin it.

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

I have plenty of gaskets, the plate i made wont sit flush even though it looks flat as can be. I guess im going to have to finish painting the pump, put it on and rent a coolant pressure tester.

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

Perhaps the plate flatness isn't your problem. Have you tried using it with a gasket or RTV?

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

exactly, there is a gasket between the factory keg and pump housing. If your are just pressing a plate against it, I DO NOT care how tight you have it. It WILL **** out. As for the coolant pressure tester, read above where we tell you to take a hose ( Upper) and bring it down to the lowner. Then plug off the other coolant escape point via hose and bolt. Then run the pump by hand, or if you are clever like I was, make an adapter to run off your drill. You will know if its leaking after that.

I am guessing because you went the supercharged route,that the factory housing does not fit on the keg anymore? Either way, there is a gasket that NEEDS to be on either side of that "fabricated gasket plate thing"

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

Haha come on guys give me some kind of credit! I did use a gasket and even tried sealant as well.
I can spray it with soapy water and see bubbles still coming out between the plate and front iron. The stupid plate must be flexing as i can push on it and make it seal a tad better. Its not that thin though and flatness checked out very well.

Im going to just mount the water pump and rent a pressure tester. Water pump hasnt been painted or cleaned yet so i was trying to avoid it at the moment till i knew the block was holding pressure.

What is it you mean about spinning the water pump? I thought the coolant pressure tester would have something built onto it to pump up the pressure? Like a air fitting or a vacuum pump or something along those lines. (I dont have one in possession just yet, only a cylinder leak down test tool)

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

thicker plate, and cardboard cut out a gasket.. workes for me.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, your blockoff plate was way too thin and would never seal as well as the pumphousing will.

You're right, the pump doesn't need to move for the pressure test but it does make filling the system somewhat easier.

If you watch arch's videos, you see how he spun the pump.
It's such a hilariously cockamamie setup that actually works...it'd be worth doing just for the yucks.

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

its funny, I just took apart that adapter last night cleaning my work bench. It is funny. But be careful and use old studs that you plan on replacing. It runs the risk of damaging the threads. I put on a new pump, so I did not care.