A/C question
05-02-09, 02:44 PM
#1
Knucklehead
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A/C question
Is there a specific psi to fill to when charging the system or are all cars the same? Did it in my altima once and I just said a psi on the can (from autozone)
FYI I'm r134 converted
FYI I'm r134 converted
05-02-09, 03:01 PM
#3
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You should scrap all that 134a and convert to ES-12a the industrial stuff. It runs much lower pressures and is easier on the compressor. I just converted mine to the ES-12a and going down the freeway I get 40 degrees out the center vent.
http://autorefrigerants.com/co00033.htm is their website. Call them and get 2 cans of the Industrial ES-12a. Since you already have the 134a fittings you can use the can tap that comes with it.
To charge it pull a deep vacuum to get all the old 134a out then shake the 12a cans up real good hook them up and charge with the first can with the car off. then turn the car on and the a/c on full cold with recirc on. Then charge the 2nd can and you should be freezing.
If you don't have the stock e-fan infront of the condensor find one either from the junkyard (all automatic and turbo cars came with them, the N/A cars didn't) or on the forums. Hook a relay up to use the switched 12v from the diagnostic plug and then a switch in the interior to turn the fan off when you don't need it. If you have any questions on the e-fan relay or anything just reply in this thread or send me a PM.
While some people may discredit the ES-12a cause it's flammable but it works and has a higher flashpoint than 134a and is compatible with the oils in either system.
http://autorefrigerants.com/co00033.htm is their website. Call them and get 2 cans of the Industrial ES-12a. Since you already have the 134a fittings you can use the can tap that comes with it.
To charge it pull a deep vacuum to get all the old 134a out then shake the 12a cans up real good hook them up and charge with the first can with the car off. then turn the car on and the a/c on full cold with recirc on. Then charge the 2nd can and you should be freezing.
If you don't have the stock e-fan infront of the condensor find one either from the junkyard (all automatic and turbo cars came with them, the N/A cars didn't) or on the forums. Hook a relay up to use the switched 12v from the diagnostic plug and then a switch in the interior to turn the fan off when you don't need it. If you have any questions on the e-fan relay or anything just reply in this thread or send me a PM.
While some people may discredit the ES-12a cause it's flammable but it works and has a higher flashpoint than 134a and is compatible with the oils in either system.
05-02-09, 05:26 PM
#4
Sh*t, here it comes again...Summer!
Nope.
There is *never* a specific pressure when filling a system. That is why there is a Temperature/Pressure Chart that is specific for every refrigerant. Every refrigerant has a different chart. If you can read it and understand the implications, then you would know why your car isn't happy with 134a-in Las Vegas. 134a tends to work ok for people who don't need much A/C or for people who haven't tried in legitimately hot weather.
http://www.glacierbay.com/ptchart134a.asp
If you *do* use 134a in our cars without extensive work, the pressure charts won't help much, because there is not enough condenser area on an FC for 134a.
Those conversion kits from Autozone, Walmart, Orielly's etc. have a nickname in the MACS industry- They call them DEATH KITS! The reason? In the hands of a typical consumer they tend to destroy the compressor via the Black Death method.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/hows-your-c-doing-759808/
To charge it pull a deep vacuum to get all the old 134a out then shake the 12a cans up real good hook them up and charge with the first can with the car off. then turn the car on and the a/c on full cold with recirc on. Then charge the 2nd can and you should be freezing.
Challenge: Ask ES for a temperature/Pressure Chart. They can't give you one, because they don't have one.
Ask ES for a conversion rate, i.e. the exact amount to put in your system. They can't/wont.
There is no *right* way to use ES-unless you are in an area that doesn't need A/C (Canada, Vermont, Michigan).
http://www.imcool.com/articles/airco...erant_Fire.htm
Or maybe you should ask the Australian Pioneer and major proponent of HC refrigerants, Dr Ian Maclaine Cross. Oh, yeah, you can't find the Good Doctor, since his little demonstration on the 'safety' of HC refrigerants.
After 15 years of writing articles about how safe the HC's are, he was forced into retirement and discredited after being exposed as a dumbass.
Ain't YouTube *great*?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k0K1WPCWm2k
05-02-09, 05:34 PM
#5
Here is some help!
Ok now that I bashed the ES and the 134a, lets have a little help, shall we?
Without extensive retrofitting of the condenser, you should only be looking at two refrigerants for your FC: R12 or Freeze12.
I use only R12 in my R12 systems (three in the family). This is a choice I made because I will only accept the best A/C possible. I have personally tested everything on the market including ES and the HC stuff. I have blended my own HC's. I have tested all the HF blends.
*Nothing* is as good as R12. Period. But, you need to have a license to buy R12.
Freeze12 performs as close to R12 as is possible. Lots of FC guys use it in Arizona, California, Texas etc. You can buy it on Ebay. You can properly charge an FC without modifying the condenser. You don't need a license to buy Freeze12
You can get a frickin' Freeze12 Temperature/Pressure chart! http://freeze-12.com/f-12presstemp.html You can use Freeze12 with the original mineral oil. You can use Freeze12 with Ester oil You can use Freeze12 with Double End Capped PAG oils. This stuff is the bomb (but not quite as good as R12).
Replace your receiver dryer. Reusing this part is like reusing your oil filter after an oil change. You could tell me that reusing has 'always' worked for you. Fine. You spend way more on 2 oil changes than on a receiver dryer.
You need a manifold gauge set. You have to have this to switch from vacuum to charging without letting air (non-condensable) into the system.
Pull a deep vacuum. Vacuum pumps are easy to access- Rent a vacuum pump from Autozone or Orielly's. Buy one on Ebay are then resell it for the same money. And no, you can't pull a deep vacuum with an air-compressor powered vacuum pump. Really. No, you can't.
Liquid charge in exactly 2-12 oz cans into the system. Technically, you should use 26 oz, but you are on shaky ground trying to charge in 2 additional oz from the third can. Pro's use a charging scale. If you have an electronic scale that will measure grams, give it a try. Charge by liquid.
Without extensive retrofitting of the condenser, you should only be looking at two refrigerants for your FC: R12 or Freeze12.
I use only R12 in my R12 systems (three in the family). This is a choice I made because I will only accept the best A/C possible. I have personally tested everything on the market including ES and the HC stuff. I have blended my own HC's. I have tested all the HF blends.
*Nothing* is as good as R12. Period. But, you need to have a license to buy R12.
Freeze12 performs as close to R12 as is possible. Lots of FC guys use it in Arizona, California, Texas etc. You can buy it on Ebay. You can properly charge an FC without modifying the condenser. You don't need a license to buy Freeze12
You can get a frickin' Freeze12 Temperature/Pressure chart! http://freeze-12.com/f-12presstemp.html You can use Freeze12 with the original mineral oil. You can use Freeze12 with Ester oil You can use Freeze12 with Double End Capped PAG oils. This stuff is the bomb (but not quite as good as R12).
Replace your receiver dryer. Reusing this part is like reusing your oil filter after an oil change. You could tell me that reusing has 'always' worked for you. Fine. You spend way more on 2 oil changes than on a receiver dryer.
You need a manifold gauge set. You have to have this to switch from vacuum to charging without letting air (non-condensable) into the system.
Pull a deep vacuum. Vacuum pumps are easy to access- Rent a vacuum pump from Autozone or Orielly's. Buy one on Ebay are then resell it for the same money. And no, you can't pull a deep vacuum with an air-compressor powered vacuum pump. Really. No, you can't.
Liquid charge in exactly 2-12 oz cans into the system. Technically, you should use 26 oz, but you are on shaky ground trying to charge in 2 additional oz from the third can. Pro's use a charging scale. If you have an electronic scale that will measure grams, give it a try. Charge by liquid.
05-02-09, 05:53 PM
#6
man Jack is a AC expert too.
Let me thread jack for a second while I have Jack's attention:
I am just about to get my AC charged up for the first time since my conversion, here is what I am running:
FD compressor-custom line-new FC condensor-new pressure switch- new dryer
only thing original is the line that runs along the firewall and the line that comes from the dryer to the firewall, custom line from the compressor to that line on the firewall.
so when I bring my car into the shop what am I asking them to charge it with? Being that they are a professional shop will they have the best coolant for my system?
Let me thread jack for a second while I have Jack's attention:
I am just about to get my AC charged up for the first time since my conversion, here is what I am running:
FD compressor-custom line-new FC condensor-new pressure switch- new dryer
only thing original is the line that runs along the firewall and the line that comes from the dryer to the firewall, custom line from the compressor to that line on the firewall.
so when I bring my car into the shop what am I asking them to charge it with? Being that they are a professional shop will they have the best coolant for my system?
05-02-09, 06:29 PM
#7
Knucklehead
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Ok now that I bashed the ES and the 134a, lets have a little help, shall we?
Without extensive retrofitting of the condenser, you should only be looking at two refrigerants for your FC: R12 or Freeze12.
I use only R12 in my R12 systems (three in the family). This is a choice I made because I will only accept the best A/C possible. I have personally tested everything on the market including ES and the HC stuff. I have blended my own HC's. I have tested all the HF blends.
*Nothing* is as good as R12. Period. But, you need to have a license to buy R12.
Freeze12 performs as close to R12 as is possible. Lots of FC guys use it in Arizona, California, Texas etc. You can buy it on Ebay. You can properly charge an FC without modifying the condenser. You don't need a license to buy Freeze12
You can get a frickin' Freeze12 Temperature/Pressure chart! http://freeze-12.com/f-12presstemp.html You can use Freeze12 with the original mineral oil. You can use Freeze12 with Ester oil You can use Freeze12 with Double End Capped PAG oils. This stuff is the bomb (but not quite as good as R12).
Replace your receiver dryer. Reusing this part is like reusing your oil filter after an oil change. You could tell me that reusing has 'always' worked for you. Fine. You spend way more on 2 oil changes than on a receiver dryer.
You need a manifold gauge set. You have to have this to switch from vacuum to charging without letting air (non-condensable) into the system.
Pull a deep vacuum. Vacuum pumps are easy to access- Rent a vacuum pump from Autozone or Orielly's. Buy one on Ebay are then resell it for the same money. And no, you can't pull a deep vacuum with an air-compressor powered vacuum pump. Really. No, you can't.
Liquid charge in exactly 2-12 oz cans into the system. Technically, you should use 26 oz, but you are on shaky ground trying to charge in 2 additional oz from the third can. Pro's use a charging scale. If you have an electronic scale that will measure grams, give it a try. Charge by liquid.
Without extensive retrofitting of the condenser, you should only be looking at two refrigerants for your FC: R12 or Freeze12.
I use only R12 in my R12 systems (three in the family). This is a choice I made because I will only accept the best A/C possible. I have personally tested everything on the market including ES and the HC stuff. I have blended my own HC's. I have tested all the HF blends.
*Nothing* is as good as R12. Period. But, you need to have a license to buy R12.
Freeze12 performs as close to R12 as is possible. Lots of FC guys use it in Arizona, California, Texas etc. You can buy it on Ebay. You can properly charge an FC without modifying the condenser. You don't need a license to buy Freeze12
You can get a frickin' Freeze12 Temperature/Pressure chart! http://freeze-12.com/f-12presstemp.html You can use Freeze12 with the original mineral oil. You can use Freeze12 with Ester oil You can use Freeze12 with Double End Capped PAG oils. This stuff is the bomb (but not quite as good as R12).
Replace your receiver dryer. Reusing this part is like reusing your oil filter after an oil change. You could tell me that reusing has 'always' worked for you. Fine. You spend way more on 2 oil changes than on a receiver dryer.
You need a manifold gauge set. You have to have this to switch from vacuum to charging without letting air (non-condensable) into the system.
Pull a deep vacuum. Vacuum pumps are easy to access- Rent a vacuum pump from Autozone or Orielly's. Buy one on Ebay are then resell it for the same money. And no, you can't pull a deep vacuum with an air-compressor powered vacuum pump. Really. No, you can't.
Liquid charge in exactly 2-12 oz cans into the system. Technically, you should use 26 oz, but you are on shaky ground trying to charge in 2 additional oz from the third can. Pro's use a charging scale. If you have an electronic scale that will measure grams, give it a try. Charge by liquid.
What will I have to do now to use that R12 (or that substitute) that my car was 'retrofitted' to R134? I dont really know if they swap anything out.
And what/where is the receiver dryer? Should I change this on my other cars as well?
I also heard someone tell me to clean the condensor...anything specific about that? Or just a brush and soap? Appreciate the info man.
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05-02-09, 07:18 PM
#9
man Jack is a AC expert too.
Let me thread jack for a second while I have Jack's attention:
I am just about to get my AC charged up for the first time since my conversion, here is what I am running:
FD compressor-custom line-new FC condenser-new pressure switch- new dryer
only thing original is the line that runs along the firewall and the line that comes from the dryer to the firewall, custom line from the compressor to that line on the firewall.
so when I bring my car into the shop what am I asking them to charge it with? Being that they are a professional shop will they have the best coolant for my system?
Let me thread jack for a second while I have Jack's attention:
I am just about to get my AC charged up for the first time since my conversion, here is what I am running:
FD compressor-custom line-new FC condenser-new pressure switch- new dryer
only thing original is the line that runs along the firewall and the line that comes from the dryer to the firewall, custom line from the compressor to that line on the firewall.
so when I bring my car into the shop what am I asking them to charge it with? Being that they are a professional shop will they have the best coolant for my system?
With all that custom work on the car, you should set your sights high.
Here is what I would use for a condenser-
http://www.ackits.com/c/Parallel/Par...+Aluminum.html
Pick the one that fits best, likely the 21x14 or the 22.5x14.
The parallel flow condenser is really the way to go for all condensers. In essence, it is similar to a multipass radiator. 33% improvement in efficiency will greatly reduce head pressure-which will help cool down from heat soak, low speed and idle performance...
Then, I would have it charged with....134a, Double End Capped DEC-PAG oil and be done forever. Anyone can work on it, no one will ever jack you over for R12.
If you want to learn A/C and do it yourself, then get your epa 609 and buy R12, ester oil and do it yourself.
05-02-09, 07:41 PM
#10
I'll look into this. A few questions:
What will I have to do now to use that R12 (or that substitute) that my car was 'retrofitted' to R134? I dont really know if they swap anything out.
And what/where is the receiver dryer? Should I change this on my other cars as well?
I also heard someone tell me to clean the condensor...anything specific about that? Or just a brush and soap? Appreciate the info man.
What will I have to do now to use that R12 (or that substitute) that my car was 'retrofitted' to R134? I dont really know if they swap anything out.
And what/where is the receiver dryer? Should I change this on my other cars as well?
I also heard someone tell me to clean the condensor...anything specific about that? Or just a brush and soap? Appreciate the info man.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/Produ...¤tPage=2
Manifold gauges.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HVAC-...spagenameZWDVW
They are telling you to clean the condenser because your A/C isn't cooling well. Your head pressure is too high and they are having trouble balancing the charge. If the condener was dirty, it would cause this. In your case, it is caused by the fact that the FC condenser is too small for 134a.
To use freeze12, you should replace your dryer, add *about* 3-4 oz of ester oil, pull a vacuum, and charge with 2 cans of freeze12.
05-02-09, 07:55 PM
#11
man Jack is a AC expert too.
Let me thread jack for a second while I have Jack's attention:
I am just about to get my AC charged up for the first time since my conversion, here is what I am running:
FD compressor-custom line-new FC condensor-new pressure switch- new dryer
only thing original is the line that runs along the firewall and the line that comes from the dryer to the firewall, custom line from the compressor to that line on the firewall.
so when I bring my car into the shop what am I asking them to charge it with? Being that they are a professional shop will they have the best coolant for my system?
Let me thread jack for a second while I have Jack's attention:
I am just about to get my AC charged up for the first time since my conversion, here is what I am running:
FD compressor-custom line-new FC condensor-new pressure switch- new dryer
only thing original is the line that runs along the firewall and the line that comes from the dryer to the firewall, custom line from the compressor to that line on the firewall.
so when I bring my car into the shop what am I asking them to charge it with? Being that they are a professional shop will they have the best coolant for my system?
http://www.bernardembden.com/xjs/pcond/index.htm
05-03-09, 09:33 AM
#12
I used a stock replacement, NLA from anyone local even all the crash parts suppliers, no auto parts store, and no dealer.
I found a place online that had it, I had no idea about these different condensors and would have loved to have a aluimum higher performing one, but after what I went through for lines F-THAT now, lol
So I assume my local guy will change the oil and charge it up with 134a.
Saying I have a friend with a AC/heating company can he get me the 12a?
I found a place online that had it, I had no idea about these different condensors and would have loved to have a aluimum higher performing one, but after what I went through for lines F-THAT now, lol
So I assume my local guy will change the oil and charge it up with 134a.
Saying I have a friend with a AC/heating company can he get me the 12a?
05-05-09, 12:45 PM
#13
I used a stock replacement, NLA from anyone local even all the crash parts suppliers, no auto parts store, and no dealer.
I found a place online that had it, I had no idea about these different condensers and would have loved to have a aluimum higher performing one, but after what I went through for lines F-THAT now, lol
So I assume my local guy will change the oil and charge it up with 134a.
Saying I have a friend with a AC/heating company can he get me the 12a?
I found a place online that had it, I had no idea about these different condensers and would have loved to have a aluimum higher performing one, but after what I went through for lines F-THAT now, lol
So I assume my local guy will change the oil and charge it up with 134a.
Saying I have a friend with a AC/heating company can he get me the 12a?
Are you doing the basic assembly on the system? If so, use a little bit of oil on each of the o-rings. I tend to use the same oil that I am adding to the system. This should help make sure it is tight and leak free.
Do you have easy access to a vacuum pump and a manifold gauge?
Essentially, you have a new, dry system. A full charge of R12 is 29 oz (2.5 12-oz cans) and 6 oz mineral oil. You can also use Ester oil but never never never use PAG for R12. 12+pag=chemical reaction.
Add 3 oz to the compressor and 3 oz to the dryer, the close the system and vacuum to 29"+. I like to hook the first can (or canister) up to the gauges before vacuuming on a new system. This assures that there is no air/water vapor in the hose. To do this, you must have a 4 hose manifold setup.
Verify that the vacuum holds for 30 min to 1hr., then charge in the R12 while the system is running. First can should go in liquid, maybe half the second can, then switch to vapor. The last 1/2 can should all be vapor. Don't overcharge. Do the charge on an 85* day, interior fan on high, recirc on, one window open. You should see the sight glass clear during the last half can vapor charge.
If you have a clean, new system with a full vacuum, don't worry about pressures. Measuring pressures becomes more of a diagnostic tool to make sure everything is running correctly. Pro's charge by weight only. They seldom 'top off' systems. If the system isn't full, they will recover the contents, fix the leak, then charge by weight.
One last thing: You MUST activate the cooling fan when the compressor is running-always.
05-05-09, 05:46 PM
#14
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Jack===
My hats off to ya!!
Its good to see someone that really does understand HVAC-R for autos, explain it like it really is.
I do industrial stuff--BIGGER than the cars you work on. 100 H.P. on up--and usually a whole lot colder too_____ -40 to somewhere below -120 even some LN2
My hats off to ya!!
Its good to see someone that really does understand HVAC-R for autos, explain it like it really is.
I do industrial stuff--BIGGER than the cars you work on. 100 H.P. on up--and usually a whole lot colder too_____ -40 to somewhere below -120 even some LN2
07-17-09, 02:09 PM
#15
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Going to go ahead and bump this, but FWIW, that Porsche's minor explosion was caused by the owner being a dumbass and half-assing an install of a very important part of the car. If he had used a properly-sized hose that didn't contact the fan it never would have happened. Had he done the same thing with a fuel line, the same thing would have happened except that the car would have been burnt to a shell instead of repaired and put back onto the road.
Also, Enviro Safe comes with a pine scent for leak detection... although I do have to admit that the guy blowing himself up was pretty hilarious.. I mean, WTF do you expect is going to happen if you light a match inside of a car full of butane/propane.
Also, Enviro Safe comes with a pine scent for leak detection... although I do have to admit that the guy blowing himself up was pretty hilarious.. I mean, WTF do you expect is going to happen if you light a match inside of a car full of butane/propane.
07-17-09, 02:25 PM
#16
This is a great thread...and I also have another thread bookmarked for a long time...where jackchild 'et al' educate the rest of us on A/C systems:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/official-its-summer-there-going-million-ac-questions-thread-300090/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/official-its-summer-there-going-million-ac-questions-thread-300090/
07-18-09, 01:56 PM
#19
Jackhild is absolutely correct when it comes to stock fc condensers and the type that should be used with R134a. The serpentine type was marginal at best with R12 but woefully inadequate for use with R134a. The number one ingredient to making cold air with R134a is an efficient condenser and adequate air flow across it. I converted a friend's car using the 3-pass parallel-flow condenser shown at the bottom of this page:
http://www.polarbearinc.com/PBPC/hom.../CN/CN_PF.html
It has the inlet and outlet fittings on opposite ends which made it easier to plumb the tubing for the dryer. It was blowing 34-degree air at the center vent. Needless to say he is thrilled and still makes comments about it.
http://www.polarbearinc.com/PBPC/hom.../CN/CN_PF.html
It has the inlet and outlet fittings on opposite ends which made it easier to plumb the tubing for the dryer. It was blowing 34-degree air at the center vent. Needless to say he is thrilled and still makes comments about it.
07-18-09, 09:05 PM
#20
Going to go ahead and bump this, but FWIW, that Porsche's minor explosion was caused by the owner being a dumbass and half-assing an install of a very important part of the car. If he had used a properly-sized hose that didn't contact the fan it never would have happened. Had he done the same thing with a fuel line, the same thing would have happened except that the car would have been burnt to a shell instead of repaired and put back onto the road.
Also, Enviro Safe comes with a pine scent for leak detection... although I do have to admit that the guy blowing himself up was pretty hilarious.. I mean, WTF do you expect is going to happen if you light a match inside of a car full of butane/propane.
Also, Enviro Safe comes with a pine scent for leak detection... although I do have to admit that the guy blowing himself up was pretty hilarious.. I mean, WTF do you expect is going to happen if you light a match inside of a car full of butane/propane.
07-18-09, 09:06 PM
#21
Jackhild is absolutely correct when it comes to stock fc condensers and the type that should be used with R134a. The serpentine type was marginal at best with R12 but woefully inadequate for use with R134a. The number one ingredient to making cold air with R134a is an efficient condenser and adequate air flow across it. I converted a friend's car using the 3-pass parallel-flow condenser shown at the bottom of this page:
http://www.polarbearinc.com/PBPC/hom.../CN/CN_PF.html
It has the inlet and outlet fittings on opposite ends which made it easier to plumb the tubing for the dryer. It was blowing 34-degree air at the center vent. Needless to say he is thrilled and still makes comments about it.
http://www.polarbearinc.com/PBPC/hom.../CN/CN_PF.html
It has the inlet and outlet fittings on opposite ends which made it easier to plumb the tubing for the dryer. It was blowing 34-degree air at the center vent. Needless to say he is thrilled and still makes comments about it.
07-18-09, 09:16 PM
#22
Found a link to refrigerant capacities:
http://www.aircondition.com/dsmobileac/mazda.html
Jackchild: Is this info good? What are other places with good info?
http://www.aircondition.com/dsmobileac/mazda.html
Jackchild: Is this info good? What are other places with good info?
ACkits.com has a great forum too.
I don't use that chart because it is unhandy. I use this instead-the Napa guide. Posted is the mazda section. The entire PDF covering all make up to 2005 is too large to post here.
07-19-09, 08:17 AM
#24
Again, nice work! Which part number did you use? The page doesn't spec the connections. How much work did you have to do to adapt the FC plumbing to the new condenser?
Using an upgraded condenser like this will allow you to have great cooling even with R134a. If you do this modification, there is not reason to use Freeze12. The cooling with R134a and this type condenser can be just as good as R12 with the original system. The limitation on the capacity of the system will be the slight mismatch between R134a and the expansion valve superheat settings as well as the mismatch between the low pressure cycle switch and operating pressures of R134a. In other words, while the 'problem' is solved, the system is still not quite right.
But...just in case anyone is wondering, upgrading the condenser is a great way to improve A/C effectiveness-even when using R12. This is where I am going with my system.
Using an upgraded condenser like this will allow you to have great cooling even with R134a. If you do this modification, there is not reason to use Freeze12. The cooling with R134a and this type condenser can be just as good as R12 with the original system. The limitation on the capacity of the system will be the slight mismatch between R134a and the expansion valve superheat settings as well as the mismatch between the low pressure cycle switch and operating pressures of R134a. In other words, while the 'problem' is solved, the system is still not quite right.
But...just in case anyone is wondering, upgrading the condenser is a great way to improve A/C effectiveness-even when using R12. This is where I am going with my system.
07-19-09, 10:32 AM
#25
I used the CN 21003C and the original rubber mounts. On the passenger side I had to cut a portion of the original dryer tube off and weld it onto a fitting/tube I bought at a local A/C shop here in OKC. I used an expansion valve from O'reilly that is rated for R134a. While I had the TXV out, I flushed the evap core and lines with a/c solvent to get rid of all mineral oil. I installed a reman compressor which was already loaded with PAG oil, and of course a new dryer. I wish I had taken pics of the install, it was, for the most part, easy.