A/C problem
#1
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A/C problem
How can you tell if your a/c pump is not working right. Im caugh between either a pump malfunction or system recharge. What do you guys think?
#4
Crash Auto?Fix Auto.
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put positive power to the one wire that comes off the compressor, start the car, if the clutch is turning then you have a problem somewhere in the eletrical going to the pump........could possibly be the pressure sensor.
If it doesn't engage, then get another compressor
If it doesn't engage, then get another compressor
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#8
catchafox
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turn the compressor over by hand if it spins ok with a little resistance its not seized. put a positive power feed from the battery to the clutch coil when engine running if it goes click and starts pumping leave it connected and feel the large pipe of the evaporator that comes out of the fire wal. Iif that goes cold youve got gas, if it stays warm your low on gas because theres a leak some where. Leaks can be found by oily dirt around the leak so check out the complete system then take it to the pros.
#9
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Originally Posted by My5ABaby
You live in Vermont, quit bitching.
#11
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Originally Posted by My5ABaby
All my "sun"roof does is let the sun hit me directly and make me hot as hell.
#13
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Originally Posted by Sideways7
And you live in Tennesee. lol
I live in Texas and have no A/C, and haven't had it for years. I'm getting old now so I think I'm gonna finally fix it soon.
I live in Texas and have no A/C, and haven't had it for years. I'm getting old now so I think I'm gonna finally fix it soon.
(Also, Texas is consistently hotter than SoFla)
#14
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Hmm, I thought south florida would get pretty damn hot. It actually got up to 103 today, apparently. Anyway, I used to not really mind the heat so it didn't bother me. As long as I'm moving I'm fine, so I just avoid stop lights. Anymore it bothers me more. I guess theres something about having a baby that changes you.
#16
Irregular Here
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I retrofitted my car to R-134a and it hella sucked ***. I switched bact to R-12. Its expensive but it works soooo much better.
You can become licensed to buy it for a $20 test online.
Of course the refrigerant runs $25+ a pound...
Its what the car was designed to run on and it will freeze you out.
You can become licensed to buy it for a $20 test online.
Of course the refrigerant runs $25+ a pound...
Its what the car was designed to run on and it will freeze you out.
#18
Irregular Here
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Freeze12 requires a licese as well. By law, any refrigerant touted as a replacement for R-12 requires a license with the exception of R-134a (and that is coming too as well). There is no "drop-in" replacement for R-12. Even freeze12 requires a complete evacuation of the system - might as well just retrofit it for R-134a if you are going to do all that. Before I knew better, I added freeze 12 to my R-12 system (this was probably 10 years ago) and it worked fine until my compressor siezed a few months later. Just saying. I'm not here to argue for or against freeze12 but just my opinion - it SUCKS worse than R-134a. hehe
All you need to buy R-12 refrigerant is a certification of Sec 609 compliance from the EPA. There are many online testing sites. I used www.epatest.com
It is open book and takes about 30 minutes. Its so easy since you can just use the search functions for the .pdf they provide you. Its $20 I think. You can print out your certification immediately and they send a card later in the mail.
All you need to buy R-12 refrigerant is a certification of Sec 609 compliance from the EPA. There are many online testing sites. I used www.epatest.com
It is open book and takes about 30 minutes. Its so easy since you can just use the search functions for the .pdf they provide you. Its $20 I think. You can print out your certification immediately and they send a card later in the mail.
#21
catchafox
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ive retro fitted to r-134a and it gets massive cold as in 0 celcius (not sure what the conversion to f is) plus its more enviromently friendly. And if you think about every one venting r-12 its only gonna make the world hotter which in turn make us need a/c more. Bit of a visious cycle if you ask me.
#22
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Originally Posted by chaosseven
I repeat. There is no "drop-in" replacement for R-12.
Prove it.
Prove it.
Not sure why I have to prove it but.http://www.icorinternational.com/hotshot_opening.html#
Click on mobile information
I'm running it with no problems. Also Ive added it to r-12 to "top off" systems.
Johny
#23
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I was researching r-12 replacements the other day and came accross R-416A here: http://www.refimax.com/products/r416a.htm. It actually runs at lower pressures than r-12 so its even easier on the compressor, as opposed to R-134a. According to them, it is also more compatable with the existing oil and cools better than 134. I believe you have to get a complete evacuation as well, but thats true for most of the replacements. The only problem is I think it can be a little hard to find.
#24
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Originally Posted by Johny zoom
Not sure why I have to prove it but.http://www.icorinternational.com/hotshot_opening.html#
Click on mobile information
I'm running it with no problems. Also Ive added it to r-12 to "top off" systems.
Johny
Click on mobile information
I'm running it with no problems. Also Ive added it to r-12 to "top off" systems.
Johny
No drop in replacement. You CAN mix a lot of **** with R-12 and it will WORK for a while. Ive done it with oither blends and every time it bit me on the *** eventually.
Otherwise, I am happy the stuff works for you and seems like a good product.
#25
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Originally Posted by Sideways7
I was researching r-12 replacements the other day and came accross R-416A here: http://www.refimax.com/products/r416a.htm. It actually runs at lower pressures than r-12 so its even easier on the compressor, as opposed to R-134a. According to them, it is also more compatable with the existing oil and cools better than 134. I believe you have to get a complete evacuation as well, but thats true for most of the replacements. The only problem is I think it can be a little hard to find.