How can you tell if your a/c pump is not working right. Im caugh between either a pump malfunction or system recharge. What do you guys think?

 

Jumper the A/C clutch and see if it works

 

and how would I do that?

 

put positive power to the one wire that comes off the compressor, start the car, if the clutch is turning then you have a problem somewhere in the eletrical going to the pump........could possibly be the pressure sensor.

If it doesn't engage, then get another compressor

 

Jumper the two wires at the reciever/dryer together, and turn the a/c ON. IF the thing now works, the system is low on refrigerent or the switch is kaput (not likely).

 

thanx the 97 and humid summers here are really getting worst.

 

You live in Vermont, quit bitching.

 

turn the compressor over by hand if it spins ok with a little resistance its not seized. put a positive power feed from the battery to the clutch coil when engine running if it goes click and starts pumping leave it connected and feel the large pipe of the evaporator that comes out of the fire wal. Iif that goes cold youve got gas, if it stays warm your low on gas because theres a leak some where. Leaks can be found by oily dirt around the leak so check out the complete system then take it to the pros.

 

Im not bitching, its just too hot to drive around with just the windows/sunroof open in these 7's. If its my pump then I have an extra one of those.

 

All my "sun"roof does is let the sun hit me directly and make me hot as hell.

 

Vent it, just raise it up enough to let air in at the front, or at least just raise it up. It doesn't have to be open all the way. It just provides one more place for your cabin air to escape to.

 

And you live in Tennesee. lol
I live in Texas and have no A/C, and haven't had it for years. I'm getting old now so I think I'm gonna finally fix it soon.

 

I cant imagine you not having A\C in Texas. I absolutley cook in my car if I turn the A\C off - going around with a raised sunroof and with the windows down only works at night.

(Also, Texas is consistently hotter than SoFla)

 

Hmm, I thought south florida would get pretty damn hot. It actually got up to 103 today, apparently. Anyway, I used to not really mind the heat so it didn't bother me. As long as I'm moving I'm fine, so I just avoid stop lights. Anymore it bothers me more. I guess theres something about having a baby that changes you.

 

Its 106* here in Cali. =/

 

I retrofitted my car to R-134a and it hella sucked ***. I switched bact to R-12. Its expensive but it works soooo much better.

You can become licensed to buy it for a $20 test online.

Of course the refrigerant runs $25+ a pound...

Its what the car was designed to run on and it will freeze you out.

 

Is that all? You can get freeze12 for much cheaper and it works just as well. Also, where is this test?

 

Freeze12 requires a licese as well. By law, any refrigerant touted as a replacement for R-12 requires a license with the exception of R-134a (and that is coming too as well). There is no "drop-in" replacement for R-12. Even freeze12 requires a complete evacuation of the system - might as well just retrofit it for R-134a if you are going to do all that. Before I knew better, I added freeze 12 to my R-12 system (this was probably 10 years ago) and it worked fine until my compressor siezed a few months later. Just saying. I'm not here to argue for or against freeze12 but just my opinion - it SUCKS worse than R-134a. hehe

All you need to buy R-12 refrigerant is a certification of Sec 609 compliance from the EPA. There are many online testing sites. I used www.epatest.com

It is open book and takes about 30 minutes. Its so easy since you can just use the search functions for the .pdf they provide you. Its $20 I think. You can print out your certification immediately and they send a card later in the mail.

 

R-414b (hot shot) drop in for r-12 . Will mix with r-12
and yes you need a licencse


Johny

 

I repeat. There is no "drop-in" replacement for R-12.

Prove it.

 

ive retro fitted to r-134a and it gets massive cold as in 0 celcius (not sure what the conversion to f is) plus its more enviromently friendly. And if you think about every one venting r-12 its only gonna make the world hotter which in turn make us need a/c more. Bit of a visious cycle if you ask me.

 

Not sure why I have to prove it but.http://www.icorinternational.com/hotshot_opening.html#

Click on mobile information
I'm running it with no problems. Also Ive added it to r-12 to "top off" systems.


Johny

 

I was researching r-12 replacements the other day and came accross R-416A here: http://www.refimax.com/products/r416a.htm. It actually runs at lower pressures than r-12 so its even easier on the compressor, as opposed to R-134a. According to them, it is also more compatable with the existing oil and cools better than 134. I believe you have to get a complete evacuation as well, but thats true for most of the replacements. The only problem is I think it can be a little hard to find.

 

I read the same thing. Nowhere does it say to mix with R-12 and top off a system.

No drop in replacement. You CAN mix a lot of **** with R-12 and it will WORK for a while. Ive done it with oither blends and every time it bit me on the *** eventually.

Otherwise, I am happy the stuff works for you and seems like a good product.

 

Looks like that product is not intended for mobile AC systems. Usually means the stuff is flammable. It replaces R-22 and the R-12 in vending machines?