nis14

iTrader: (1)

Hey Guys.

So I've come to the realization that I'll be autocrossing a 20 year old cars next year. To rejuvenate the suspension, I'm thinking about slapping in either Megan Racing or a set of Stance GR+. Which lead me to the following question:

1, Rather than taking a shotgun method of replacing all the bushings. I wanted to get some feedback on which bushings should be replaced into order to fine tune my cone dodging skills.

2, Also if you have any input as to which set of coil-overs would best suit my needs that would be great as well. Stance Vs Megans. (I have searched, it seems like Stance is the winner but budget is a concern so I would love some firsthand testimonials) BTW, this will be a weekend car/autocrosser.

Thanks in Advance.

Hecubus84

iTrader: (1)

I'd start with a pair of DTSS eliminator bushings and a good alignment. It's common for the rear toe adjustment to rust up and get "overlooked" by whoever is performing your alignment, you may wish to check their functionality prior to getting the car aligned. Also, you should inspect your ball joints and tie-rods, if these are sloppy it's likely that you wont pass tech.

Battle Cat

iTrader: (78)

just get a bushing kit.. its cheap

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

+1 Energy Suspension kit. If there is a bushing in that box, you need to install it.

Did this and I could not believe how much tighter my handling became. Time consuming but not the difficult to install.

gkarmadi

iTrader: (20)

^^^ Yep day and night different.

Battle Cat

iTrader: (78)

make sure santa brought ya some bushings for xmas

SoloII///M

iTrader: (13)

I really don't recommend poly bushings in the rear trailing arm. That arm really needs to articulate, and poly isn't compliant enough to allow that to happen properly. Will it work OK? Yes, probably. But it's not an ideal solution.

The stock rubber in the rear trailing arm is the best bet for a street driven car. Poly in the front control arms is just fine. New dogbones (individual camber links, the stock non-adjustable ones are fine for a street car) are good insurance as well.

For coilovers, I'm not a fan of the cheap stuff out there. You're never really sure what you're getting in terms of shock valving, spring rate, etc. Ground control just set me up with a nice package of parts. Properly valved Koni 30 series single adjustable shocks, new strut tubes, camber plates up front, spherical bearings for the rear dampers, Eibach linear springs and all the hardware I need. It was about $1700 and is made up of all quality components. Just something to consider.

Just my opinion.

DAveFC3sNA

iTrader: (11)

you should also check your wheel bearings also

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to have to say don't forget the drivetrain mounts. How are you suppose to feel like your car is performing well if you can hear the diff clunking in the back of the car and the motor moves around in the engine bay.

Dont take this as "go out and buy the full poly/solid drivetrain mount kit", but make sure all your mounts are in good condition, if not, replace what needs to be replaced.