I spent about 2 hours at the shop today pressing in some Prothane bushings, MMR diff mounts, and RB DTSS eliminators. Everything went fairly smooth except for two issues.

The Pivot bushing - what is the best way to get the old one off...just hack it to death with a saw until it crumbles?

Also, the bushing on the rear trailing arm sucks. The supplied prothane bushings is a little bit too big. Anyone else have this problem?

Thanks in advance.

 

bump. Could someone answer this for him/her?

 

Thanks for the bump, I had basically given up hope on getting an answer.

 

I'm sorry I couldn't help you with an answer. Maybe this will get someone's attention shortly.

 

I guess one thing you could try is to check on Mazdatrix.com. I believe the sell the bushings you speak of and may actually include some instructions on removal and installation. I have seen instructions for the DTSS eliminator bushings, but I haven't even checked for the other bushings underneath the car.

 

Prothane incluces some instructions and I already installed the Racing beat DTSS using the supplied instructions. I cross-referenced the part number stamped on the bushing to make sure its the right one. It's correct, but its slightly too big for the rear control arm/ swing arm assembly. I may shave off some of some of the urethane and drive it home, but was hoping it wouldn't come to that.

As for the pivot bushing, its just insanely annoying that the old rubber is virtually bonded to the control arm.

 

For the pivot bushing, you're talking about the rear bushing on the front control arms yes? If so what I did was hack away at it with a razor blade to expose the metal, then I took a cutoff wheel and cut the sleeve off as far back as I could then I used a chisel to break the last little bit off. I haven't done my rear bushings, so I can't help with that.

BTW, no bumps are allowed in the 2nd gen tech section (this one).

 

So you create a new thread after a while with the same question? Don't mean to sound snarky.

 

If you know it's the correct bushing, it probably needs to be pressed in using something like a bearing press.

 

No, you're supposed to wait for an answer, search for the answer, and if nothing happens in several days then maybe the question isn't clear or somthing and it need to be clarified, so post more information. You can also try asking in another sub section, like the wheels, tires, brakes and suspension forum.

 

Gotcha. Thanks.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/5-TON...mZ110031003683

I use one of these (not this brand, but a kit similar to it) to pull off the "pivot arm" bushings.
You tighten the bearing separator around the base of the bushing, which pulls it back slightly, thewn you assemble the puller onto the bearing separator, and the bushing pulls off perfect every time. Takes maybe 2 minutes.

For the rears, you have to pull out the inner metal liner. The metal lip that remains after you press out the stock bushings has to come out... its a part of the bushing.
What I do is take a holesaw the same diameter as the bushing, and then machine one of the bolts to fit as the pilot for the holesaw. Then, I buzz off the two metal flanges on each side. Next, I throw the assembly into the shop press, and the entire bushing (metal sleeve included) presses right out.
I don't know how you would get that bushing out without a press.

Since you have likely already pressed out the rubber, using a holesaw is no longer an option. In your case, I would try one of two things:
1. weld a piece of iron and a nut to the outer flange, and then use a slide hammer.
2. use a die grinder and grinder the inner edge of the flange off, then use a press to press out the metal sleeve.

Do NOT cut the bushing. Remove the metal sleeve, and the bushing fits right in.

 

First the no bumping rule doesn't really make sense but whatever.

I have pressed all the bushings using a 20 ton press. The pivot bushing I speak of is for the front control arm, the rubber is brittle and will probably need to be cut to pieces to come off. The rubber probably won't let a puller grab hold of it, way to musty.

The rear bushing was pressed out completely and to my knowledge did not have a metal casing around it. I was considering not even bothering with the install of this one since the pillow ***** on the spare set I was working on may be done for.

Thanks for all the input so far.

 

burn it out thats what i did.. then get a chisel and hit the lip of the metal sleeve/ insert it my memory serves me right the sleeve is two pieces you hitting taping the lip of the sleeve from the outside of the to the inside should pop it right off.

 

Makes sense, too bad all these good suggestions come after I put the project on the back burner for winter.
I'll check it out again once temps rise above the 20's here in IL.

 

I did what black91na did - I used a cutoff tool to VERY CAREFULLY cut the stock rubber bushing down to the metal sleeve, and cut the sleeve as far back as I dared to go, then broke the last little bit with an air chisel (the metal sleeve doesn't go all the way back to the aluminum lip) after that I mounted it in a vice and pulled rocked and twisted it out.