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broke ez out in attempt to remove broken water pump stud..need advice

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Old 08-28-08, 09:24 PM
  #26  
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To drill through metal, you need special drill bits. I tried to drill a hole in a thick steel plate a while back in no time. Luckily my Grandfather was a machinest, so I used some of his drill bits and it went though like a hot knife through butter.

What I have done is drilled a hole slightly smaller than a tap, then run the tap all the way though. It should start pushing the remaining part of the easy-out out the back, assuming its threaded all the way though (can't remember of the top of my head.)

The other info might be a better idea, but I just wanted to say what I had done that worked.
Old 08-28-08, 10:45 PM
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I've had a fair bit of experience removing bitched up bolts, the "screw" type extractors are GARBAGE. However, I've had success with the square type, that you need to drill a hole and then pound in.



If you have a hole drilled in through the backside, get the right size extractor, pound it in there, and heat the **** out of the housing with an Oxy/Acetylene torch. You can get heat almost completely around the threads, so get the housing glowing red, spray the remainder of the bolt with a bit of water to give it a quick cool/shock and give her a twist. If it doesn't go, spray it all down with water to cool it, and repeat. Heat is always the best solution bar none when it comes to seized threads.
Old 08-30-08, 05:08 PM
  #28  
slowmotion

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what size heli-coil kit/drill bit would i need to drill it out and replace with the coil?

5/16?
Old 08-30-08, 08:08 PM
  #29  
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Do yourself- and future mechanics- a favor and keep it metric.

In fact, it's entirely possible you'll be able to keep it the same size as stock- 8mm.
Depends on badly boogered the original hole gets removing the broken stud.
Old 08-30-08, 09:00 PM
  #30  
slowmotion

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just a thought i had..

what if i drill out the stud straight through the other side so there is a hole with no threads; then just use a long bolt with a washer and a nut?
Old 08-30-08, 10:37 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by MDD0101
just a thought i had..

what if i drill out the stud straight through the other side so there is a hole with no threads
If you can do that you're already 2/3 of the way to Helicoiling it and using the proper stud.
Old 08-30-08, 10:40 PM
  #32  
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very true..
Old 08-31-08, 02:09 AM
  #33  
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Is there any junk yard near by that has a waterpump that would fit?

Id say do the smash and grab. Get the BFH. If its already that far gone, and you broke a screw type extractor...unless you have some carbide bits, thats going to be a bitch.
Old 08-31-08, 09:41 AM
  #34  
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take the front cover back off....
take it to a machine shop and have them put it on a DRILL PRESS......

you would have had the car running DAYS ago......
Old 08-31-08, 01:34 PM
  #35  
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@Samuel:
I'd consider your solution- which I'll cede immediately would probably work- as a workaround rather than a repair...but that's just semantics, I suppose.

If it's possible to slide a long enough bolt through from the backside though, I don't see much point in tack welding it...should be easy enough to get an openend wrench on the head and a future repair wouldn't have to deal with grinding off a tack.
Old 09-06-08, 10:01 PM
  #36  
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I fixed it guys, thanks for all the advice. What i really needed was a more powerful drill..the 2 i had werent cutting it. I ended up drilling straight through and using a bolt/washer/nut.

Heres another quick question...i just realize i misplaced the bolts for the water pump and im wondering how long they are
Old 09-07-08, 02:31 PM
  #37  
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just use a broken stud removal tool it's decades old.
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