Yep I broke a s5 rear iron again . on low boost this time . so I'm gonna get a s4 one and pin my engine . but I need to drive my car for a couple weeks before that . I see were the oil is coming from . my question is if I put jb on there clean it real good . temps are fine up till 500 degrees. Will it hold for a little ? Is the oil going to travel inside the motor? car drives fine besides that now . I'm gonna attempt this tommarow . crack is right above temp sensor for gauge .

 

similar problem i had but i cracked the front i used industrial JB & let it sit for a couple of days let me tell you, that **** didnt that hold for a drive around the block

 

why would you get an S4 rear iron, they're even weaker...

Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.

 

Once I pin it will be stronger then a s5 one . and damm illntry it in rear just gotta make sure its real clean before putting it on of not then screw it motors coming back out lol

 

Upp

 

Trying this in the am let's see if it can hold up for a week till I get new iron

 

how much power are you making, what tune do you have?

 

First one I cracked was at 18 psi 2 weeks ago prob making right over 400whp this time we changed timing and turned boost down to 14psi raced it once boom again lol .power Fc . deff not the tune .something else is going on with ignition system afrs were at high 10s

 

that sucks!

 

yeah you have some kind of ignition problem if you're breaking irons. the JBweld won't do anything btw, nor will silicon

 

 

For me it is just a pump gas thing that breaks rear irons.

Doesn't matter how rich your AFRs crap gas detonates easily. I try to keep it 10-12psi on pump gas now.

26psi on 104 no problem.

When it gets too lean on race gas power just cuts out- no detonation. I have never ever hurt a rotary on race gas.

 

You know, speaking of higher octane gas...dont mean to derail thread but...

Last week I was rushing to work and needed to get gas and the tank pumps for 87 octane took a **** and all I could get was premium 93 octane. I was in a hurry and said whatever and put in 4.5 gallons worth into my almost empty tank.

Holy effin fire ***** out the tailpipe batman. My has never shot so much flame out the tailpipe before. This was on my commute to work so I dont really have to gun it much. When i would decel and engine brake, as soon as I got back on the gas it was either "pop" or "BANG" out of the exhaust.

My car is a properly running, well maintained daily driver with extremely mild mods. Put regular gas back in and no more shotgun blasts out the back.

 

Havny started it up yet . if it don't ikk grab iron this week. But I'm scared now of my IGntion system car runs fine I'm gonna swap out trailings and leadings with another good set and add the FD ignitor instead of Banzais trick to make the trailings work like an fd

 

start that engine up and pull off the trailing leads and see if you get spark from both of them

else.. it aint flopping .. it is double sparking one of them

( im guessing likely t2 if missing the flop command )


and if so, absolutely you need to go with a FD or similar 3 or 4 channel igniter
( if using 4 channels , twin the leading signal wire to two channels and wire up 4 trailing coils individually direct to the coil. ignoring the base igniter )

megasquirt quad spark is looking like very good value around $90

your other option would be to use 2 new coils ( with inbuilt igniters ) for trailing duty

 

Lol it didn't work . but I think in gonna ditch the power Fc . if I can't get it to spark right if that's even the problem

 

power FC is fine .. for most purposes until you find the limits of dwell with the wastedspark

dodging it with two ancient flop relays onto an FC trailing coil however is asking for trouble when it will start to wastespark t2 and ignore t1 when things or connections go bad

as this will usually cost engines

the only handicap i see in the power FC is lack of offset to account for timing drift from the reluctor pickups
newer ecus will allow you to dial out the drift

though thinks for the power FC you just have to account it into the timing map

as such, dragging numbers out of other ecus
,, and especially if copied from a microtech with its datum point at 5 ATDC
and has a map smudge of that 5 degrees ..instead of being seen as real crank degrees

will amount to an error of 5 degrees too advanced + up to 3 degrees drift with revs

this amounts to enough timing too much to break plates

and so you should be mapping the PFC a little more conservatively// as when it sees 25 BTDC in its table
it may well be sparking at a real 28 degrees when viewed at the crank in real time

 

I'm gonna check the wiring on the trailing tommarow I did just like banzai said to do it on thier site . so I'm gonna wire it up the other way with a FD IGnitor . but I'm thinking about running a FD front cover to remove my cas . idk which way would be better or just ditch power Fc put my coils back to stock and get a haltech sprint re .

 

i think the FD ignitor setup is easiest and gets you on the road fastest, with least cost
but first check and see if this trailing setup has crapped out
.. as then you can stop looking for reasons you broke two plates
i really suspect you have t2 firing twice,, and t1 not at all

but if moving ecus, then save more, and get something without limits

buying a sprint really will not win much over the PFC besides 4 coil sequential operation

 

So basically see if t2 is firing more than. T1? Then go from there

 

yep.. i expect one of them isnt sparking at all.. and if so, the other is sparking twice
( t2 waste sparking ) and this is a very bad thing
as the trailing plug location will put the second wasted spark into the incoming chamber not the outgoing one

and hence, a very good reason you broke two plates , and a better reason not to throw the baby out with the bathwater

 

If this were the case, it would be evident on the tach and commander readings, the tachometer would be reading double what the commander is displaying for RPM.

You can check the spark with a timing light, no need to be pulling leads off while the car is running.

 

I mean around 5k -6500 k I can feel a hiccup deff detonation and I know its not in the tune . cause I turned boost down and timing down alot and it literally happend after 3 hard pulls to 7500 I've ran my car hard leaning it out on my first build years ago on my rtek ecu and bnr turbo and never broke an iron for those 2 years .and this year I broke a ra superseal at 380whp now 2 irons after that . idk what else to check afrs are steady at 10.8 ish I only use shell or mobile 93 . unless its my. Pump or a injector

 

3 hard pulls in a row ? what were your intake temps?

on topic I don't think jb weld will work for the crack like you have, the oil will find its way around the iron and leak where its not jb welded together

I had a motor with a striped out oil pressure sender, and I used jb weld and cramed it in there, and it held, but seeped oil very slowly,drove like that for 6 months

 

It leaks slowly now .but intake temps are low im vmount