Screw mystique, that doesn't make an engine more reliable. Yes, in a tongue and cheek way I was trying to **** off Icemark but my post was keeping with the format of the question and guidance he mentioned.


Yes, my 1991 cherry, showroom condition Vert with 25,000 original miles on it must be a piece of "****". Maybe its the persistent "new car" smell that it emits.... Oh, I've never blown an engine with any of the previous 3 FC's I've owned. I just have to laugh at all of the rotards here that seem to blown one every other week. Maybe there is a correlation to blown engines and ricer wings and fart can mufflers?

As for fuel economy, is 20-24 mpg decent? My overweight SUV was able to get that on the highway. As for torque, look at a TQ/HP dyno chart and you'll see that the engine doesn't develop much at lower rpms. My 4 cylinder daily driver develops 180 ft-lbs of torque at 1700 rpm and is a pleasure to drive up steep Colorado mountain passes. My vert requires 3rd or 4th gear to be able to maintain speed up the same Mountain passes and is a little tedious to drive here at altitude. I love FC verts for their appearance and handling. The mystique under the hood is absent and perhaps owning 3 other FC's since 1986 is the reason why there isn't any mystique anymore.

 

I would take it back to the person who rebuilt it, and lose my mind. That should get it fixed. Honestly, you paid good money to have the engine rebuilt - he should be the one to get it started.

But yeah... have you:

1) Replaced all the main fuses?
2) Replaced all vacuum lines? (Stillen has a kit for like $35)
3) Checked the fuel pump.
4) Check all connections to the fuel system (injectors, pumps, etc.).

You most likely have, I'm just throwing out a few more possibilities.

 

Toxic d: I double checked the timing, and it's all right...unless the timing marks are wrong...hmm...how do I know if the timing marks are wrong?

Mombodogs: news flash...you are not a dog, get over yourself. I am trying to get help here because Toyota doesn't make rotary engines, dick hole. I can't bring it back to the guy who built it and have him start it because I am on Long Island, and he is in Virginia Beach. Keep your faggy bitching and moaning to yourself unless you want to help.

Vex: thanks for the suggestions, but I have checked those things numerous times

 

also...when I crank it, I get alot of smoke. Mostly blue smoke (oil) So I know something is burning, so there has to be spark and the fuel/oil mixture is definately making it to the combustion chamber. Could there be too much oil in there? I put in one ounce per gallon that i added, but I'm not sure how much, if any, was in there beforehand. Could I add more gas and hope to dilute it, if this is the problem?

 

What ECU are you using, what year is your car, and what year is the engine?

 

ok, you ready? It is an 88 n/a car, with a 91 TII block and 88 TII efi electronics

 

88TII ecu

 

I can't speak for others. I have had a very reliable FC With running it past redline several minutes at a time while doing parking lot donuts to generraly running the **** out of it. When I bought my first FC, I had bought a S5 with a blown engine, I then bought another car (S4 and swapped it into the S5 chassis. It was the one that was terribly abused. It still pulls a strong 125 psi per face and runs perfectly. As far as economy, it's still more fuel efficient than my 2002 F-150 which does exactly what it's supposed to, about 18 mpg or so. Keep in mind smaller modern cars are more efficient, example. My wife's new car get's about 35 mpg. The FC was a thirstier car. Also remember this, The RCE has had much less R&D than the Ottocycle. It's an evolution process. As a previos V-8 owner, I still enjoy the "mystique" of Dr. Wankel's creation. Yes, I understand The Mazda designs are very diffrent than his. I am not against engine swaps that involve "boingers", just The RCE makes the RX-7 unique. Then again, I must be lucky, or well educated in the sense of the roatry. I Haven't had one long enough to determine the overall milage before rebuild either. That may take some time since My first car had just over 300k on the original motor, My second car had 250k when I sold it (still ran good) and my old truck (300-6 in a F-150) had 409k when I sold it, still ran good too. I replaced all those tired beaters for newer cars, but I will find out how the RCE fares to me in comparisson. Maybe you need to get out of the @nd gen tech section and go back to your V-8 area.

 

Ever thought about having someone crank it while you slowly turn the distributor? Maybe your timing marks are off, try adv/ret the timing some. If your getting alot of blue smoke you probably have fouled the plugs by now, put in some new ones. Starting fluid/atf mix has always started rotaries for me, even with a blown apex seal on the rear rotor.

 

Final post, I'm sure your glad to hear that. It's been since 9-21 that this was first brought here. Haven't seen that any progress has been made, on your part, and just because your engine builder is miles and miles away, don't use that as an excuse. If he built it, he should fix it. PERIOD. Unless you were stupid enough not to get a warranty. Or do the technicians at Toyota just fix and not give a shi t. You paid for it, if he is not willing to make it right, SUE THE BASTARD. I personally hate hearing of any rotary not working bro, but stop doing things you might have no idea is wrong. If you screw it up more, then your SOL.

Please call the guy, and take it from there. Like I said, I'm an *******, and so what, it least I would have enough common sense to make your builder fix it, or take him to court. You have another car, so take my advice, and don't ignore the advice, cause Im a *****.

PEACE THE DOG

 

automotic transmission fluid.......put some in there. If it starts then dies, then it might be your fuel system.

do you have good new gas going to the engine?

 

How about the wire harness? Is it a butchered one?

 

no...the wire harness is original...I re wrapped it and everything, but no wires are chopped up or corssed or missing or anything like that

 

Stupid question: Will it still start with no coolant in it? I didn't put coolant in it in case of a situation like this where I have to take the engine back out, so that I wouldn't waste 20+ bucks worth of coolant. I didn't put straight tap water in it because I was advised against it by my rebuilder.

 

Original 88 harness?

How about the ECU, do you know if its good?

The car should start without coolant, and tap water is OK if used temp (in a situation like this).

 

Ok, heres a long shot, but try it. It worked for me once



take a spray bottle, fill it with gas,, take your intercooler off, and spray directly into the throttle body while somebody cranks it. see if it fires. It should AT LEAST , start up and shut off. ive had motors start and run for a minute with the upper intake off. but yah, WOT it and spray fuel in. see if it fires. If so, you got a fuel problem. We had to do that to start a 20b the first time it ran.

 

original 88 harness, TII ecu is BRAND NEW, plus i swapped it out for another ecu and still same problem.

gotrotors: i did that with starting fluid and got nothing

 

I would try to talk you out of putting a piston motor in there, but I figured you wanted an improvment. There is alot to offer with a SBC in such a well handling car (and dont give me crap about it not handling good when a small block in there, because obviously if you think so you havn't done your research now have you?) If you can afford it, go for it, it will be rewarding in the end. But, all said, if you can afford to do a SBC swap in an Rx7 you could probably afford a new short block rotardy motor to slap in there. Up to you.

Icemark, I don't remember you being so "stern" in the old days. Bravo.


Chuck

 

Thank you Roy....for making my decision worse...

 

I'm sorry freind! But I speak the truth. Go with what you want mang. If I were you, honestly, get a new short block, and then buy a base model to build up and toss a small block in it, best of everything! Ok now I'm really not helping anything, heh heh.....

 

The short block I have now is brand new...0 miles on it!

 

i guarantee you it's worse to run with no coolant than with tap water. Absence of coolant in the water jacket below the blowdown chamber will allow it to get very hot very fast...... you can always flush out the gunk later, i've run with straight water a few times in the summer and yes it causes a little rust, but if you flush it and put real coolant in later, the damage is a lot less than a warped housing or roasted coolant seal.

 

you should SB it and sell me all of your rotary parts...lol

 

[/QUOTE]ok...I checked the crank sensor and the coils as per my Haynes manual:

"Measure resistance between the G1 and G2 terminals, and between the Ne1 and Ne2 terminals...resistance should be between 110 and 210 ohms"

I am reading about 75-80 ohms between these terminals

"Measure the resistance between the primary terminals of the coils...resistance should be between .2 and 1 ohm"

I am reading 0.0 ohms on all coils




maybe i'm wrong (i am new to rotaries) but isnt your coils are not within ****
the coils are not between 110-180 ohms that mean they are not in good shape

 

thats what i thought....but theyre firing...firing hard too